SKS Gas Tube Modification?

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Hello Everyone,

While scanning the forums, I came across an interesting article. It is quoted below:

"SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION

by: Larry Gibson

SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not affected.

Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent handload with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action with out driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.

Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) are used and velocity is in the 1600 fps range I've not had any malfunctions.

To accomplish this modification it will require the following tools:

15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
Center punch
Small round file
Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.

Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Deburr the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.

Fire 5 rounds and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.
NOTE:
I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.

Several Chinese SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas then drill this 4th hole. Again starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time. ( Added by res45 The numbered drill bits are wire gage bits you can get a cheap set here for about $15 that goes form #1 to #60 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34627)

CAUTION
It is easy to get impatient and drill to much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. New gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price. If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any up using the above method. I have one tube (original Chinese tube that does fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian will lay the brass almost within arms reach."

My questions: Has someone ever done this here as a member? Can you post pictures? I do not quite understand what is meant by, and how far back the drilling goes. As well, do drill bits go by another name/diameter? I asked at my local store and they said "no such thing as a #41 drill bit exists". Perhaps in mm?

Thanks,
Drach
 
Yes I've done it.

Numbered drill bits are not common. The ones I could find were cheap steel and not able to bore a hole through the gas tube (the tube is hard) without burning out. To prevent further burn outs I first drilled a pilot hole with a 5/64" cobalt bit on my drill press. This allowed much easier drilling with the successive numbered bits which I did by hand.

I found the bits at

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/DRILL-SET-1-60-105-825.html

The pencil points out the TOP hole. The toothpick is in one of the side holes. The other side hole is directly opposite the one indicated.

SKStubetophole.jpg


The pencil points out one of the SIDE holes. The toothpick is in the top hole. The other side hole is directly opposite the one indicated.

SKStubesidehole.jpg


I hope this helps!
 
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The thing is I plan to only fire milsurp in my SKS's. I like this modification as it would slam the rifle around less, and decrease wear and tear. I also hear felt recoil is reduced. Is the bullet trajectory/power decreased by this modification? I would not think so as the bullet's base is already past the gas port by the time the gas has driven the piston back?

CharlesT, is there any way you could take a short video sometime of the rifle in action? I am curious how the action functions at a reduced level.
 
Trick with buying drill bits is not to do it at the Home Depot. NICE people, generally very helpful, know nothing about machine tools.

#31 is 0.12", #41 is 0.096". Your local machine shop supply can make you a package with the bits you want @ jobber pricing. @ the shop I use they use the BOSCH Speed Helix brand bits if yer interested, they run about 3-5 bux a pop for the small sizes. DON'T buy a set, you're paying for a case and extra sizes you don't need. Be gentle with that center punch!

Generic size chart - http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm
 
Trick with buying drill bits is not to do it at the Home Depot. NICE people, generally very helpful, know nothing about machine tools.

#31 is 0.12", #41 is 0.096". Your local machine shop supply can make you a package with the bits you want @ jobber pricing. @ the shop I use they use the BOSCH Speed Helix brand bits if yer interested, they run about 3-5 bux a pop for the small sizes. DON'T buy a set, you're paying for a case and extra sizes you don't need. Be gentle with that center punch!

Generic size chart - http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm

that might be alright for a one time job but surely youre going to need more bits down the road. I wouldnt want to run to the machine shop every time I need to drill a new hole. Princess sells #1 thru #60 sets for $23 in HSS that will take care of all your small drilling and tapping needs in aluminum and mild steel. Might as well get all you'll need and be able to fine tune the holes easily. Drach, thanks for posting this, it should be cleaned up into a sticky. I might try it on my D.
 
I have done it. It helps to have a cordless rotary tool and a good quality set of Number drills. I have a way to go yet, I have drilled out the holes to approximately what the guy recommended and it's still tossing brass quite a ways. Best regards, Tony.

Edit: I also used a tapco cylinder to experiment on, you usually have to carefully file them to fit on
your SKS.

I got my drill index @ Lee Valley. quality all the way.
 
that might be alright for a one time job but surely youre going to need more bits down the road. I wouldnt want to run to the machine shop every time I need to drill a new hole. Princess sells #1 thru #60 sets for $23 in HSS that will take care of all your small drilling and tapping needs in aluminum and mild steel. Might as well get all you'll need and be able to fine tune the holes easily. Drach, thanks for posting this, it should be cleaned up into a sticky. I might try it on my D.

The "HSS" set from Princess Auto is.... The best part about Princess is their Industrial Surplus and their return policy. The point was simply that for THIS PROJECT the few required bits can be had IN HIGH QUALITY STEEL FROM A REPUTABLE MAKER for a few bucks without breaking the bank and buying a set of overly expensive bits. If you are gentle and treat/store them well a good set of bits will last years and many projects.

EDIT: YES I'm a tool snob. No MAC or SNAP-ON but darn it, you get what you pay for.
 
The "HSS" set from Princess Auto is.... The best part about Princess is their Industrial Surplus and their return policy. The point was simply that for THIS PROJECT the few required bits can be had IN HIGH QUALITY STEEL FROM A REPUTABLE MAKER for a few bucks without breaking the bank and buying a set of overly expensive bits. If you are gentle and treat/store them well a good set of bits will last years and many projects.

EDIT: YES I'm a tool snob. No MAC or SNAP-ON but darn it, you get what you pay for.

I see your point but I, along with alot of others on here do alot more than one job with our tools. The set makes sense for me, having the tools I need when I need them. With care and cutting oil the PA stuff works pretty good for me. the whole set of 60 bits is pretty cheap compared to 3 to 5 bucks each. I wouldnt recommend not buying one, it has infinitely more uses than a handful of specific bits, buy what you want but my cheap stuff works.
 
The thing is I plan to only fire milsurp in my SKS's. I like this modification as it would slam the rifle around less, and decrease wear and tear. I also hear felt recoil is reduced. Is the bullet trajectory/power decreased by this modification? I would not think so as the bullet's base is already past the gas port by the time the gas has driven the piston back?

CharlesT, is there any way you could take a short video sometime of the rifle in action? I am curious how the action functions at a reduced level.

If you are only shooting mil surps then I wouldn't bother with the gas tube mod as I found that the recoil was not substantially reduced. The only reason I did it was to recover brass.

Sorry no video recorder.
 
I too saw this original post and thought it was a great idea! I picked up a spare gas tube & some drill bits. The tube I got was used and off another SKS (EE parts, $20) not a Tapco replacement. Man that's some tough steel. :eek: Anyways, I've drilled & enlarged a number of holes as per the original instructions and the ejection has tamed down but not enough yet. A work in progress. I've actually been thinking rather than enlarging the holes more I might try a few more small holes. I'll post better details with measurements tonight.
I was surprised how much I had to enlarge the holes to see a noticeable effect on the arc of the ejecting cases and distance thrown. I've been using the Privi Partizan ammo for the R&D. I haven't tried it using surplus yet but it'll be interesting to see how it compares!
I agree that reducing recoil isn't the primary goal. Recovering spent brass to reload is! A side benefit is probably not showering the shooters 2 & 3 bays down from you with hot spent casings:D regardless if surplus or not!
One other suggestion I heard for those wanting to recover spent brass was to simply remove the piston from the gas tube and cycle the action manually. Fine if you don't want to rapid fire semi auto & go essentially single shot!

I think this is a very cool modification but it takes a fair bit of tweaking from what I have seen so far! I'm very interested / curious in other members experiences and particularly how many holes & what sizes worked.
 
I tried the 'removing the piston' modification, it turns your SKS into a single shot, and you will have to carry around a rubber mallet to beat the action open. It did have a positive effect on accuracy. I have my SKS tamed down to tossing my empties 8 feet or so, :p I def. have a ways to go yet. I am going to keep going at it slowly, and resume the modification when the weather warms up in the spring. (temperature?).
 
Well Gents,
I have some questions then: Firstly. Is it possible to sticky this for a little while, Mods?

Secondly: What ways can you reduce the recoil on the SKS rifle? Now, I know you say "no recoil", and admittedly it is no .577 Tyrannosaur, but it is still there (enough that it shoves my scope nearly into my eye socket every time I fire! (I've adjusted the scope ahead as much as I can without danger of the front getting hit by brass - my main reason for this interesting gas tube mod)

Thirdly - Where can I buy an SKS shell deflector? I used to have one that clipped on the rear sight by using the rear sight's slide. Who has one/where could I get one? I lost mine :(
 
Drach.
A possible fix for your scope to eye issue is to increase the stock length. Currently, do yo find the butt end of the stock to be too short? I did, so I added a simple 1 inch rubber slip on pad that I bought at Wholesale Sports. It works well. The extra inch should help you with your scope to eye clearance.
Oh, an alternative to the slip on pad is a plastic 1 inch Chinese screw on pad from Lever Arms. Only $5!
 
Now what you need is an adjustable system that has a slot to relieve gases that is covered by a sleeve that has a angle cut on one end, the sleeve could be on a thread or held in place with set screws. this is roughly how the FAL works.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/424889320_0e5c269ecd_o.jpg

Would be nice but not something I can do myself with limited tools! I also like the idea of being able to just slap the original gas tube back on and everything is back to as issued. Even if it is just an SKS I don't want to bubba it! But then I've already drilled & tapped it for a choate scope mount so maybe I am a bubba already! :eek: I am starting to have the urge to remove the front site & bayo mount as well since I do like the look of the clean lines on the front of the barrel :eek: Oh no ...... maybe I can resist the bubbafication (is that a word, if not it should be!:D)
 
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