Anybody reload Win Super Target or Universals?

ninepointer

ninepointer

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I know, I know... but bear with me.

As far as 20 gauge goes, nobody at out little club shoots anything but promo shells, so the pickins are slim. Looking at the inside of the Super Target & Universal hulls (yes, I cut some open), the basewad looks the same as in the AAHS. So I loaded up a couple boxes using AAHS target data. Something that I immediately noticed was that the plastic is stiffer, resulting in about 1 in 10 reloads having deformed or split crimps. I'm OK with this for a one-reload hull (they all stay closed). Am I right that I can use AAHS data for these hulls?
 
ninepointer said:
I know, I know... but bear with me.

As far as 20 gauge goes, nobody at out little club shoots anything but promo shells, so the pickins are slim. Looking at the inside of the Super Target & Universal hulls (yes, I cut some open), the basewad looks the same as in the AAHS. So I loaded up a couple boxes using AAHS target data. Something that I immediately noticed was that the plastic is stiffer, resulting in about 1 in 10 reloads having deformed or split crimps. I'm OK with this for a one-reload hull (they all stay closed). Am I right that I can use AAHS data for these hulls?
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I've used that data in those hulls with no problems. Found the same thing with the plastic, mine seemed to open up slightly after sitting around for a month or two.
 
I know quite a few that use them at least one time. If you write Winchester Western, they will reply saying that these shells are not designed to be reloaded(period)

I have accidently loaded them when the odd hull got mixed with my AAs,. They worked fine (meaning that I did not get my fingers blown off and I probably hit the target)
 
Caution - You have no idea what the pressure is in these reloads! Hate to see a damaged gun, $$$$, for the sake of a few pennies! Stick to published reloading data.
 
These shells are junk when they come new from the factory. Why anyone would even consider reloading them is beyond me. The only "promo" Hull you should even consider reloading is the Rem. Gun Club.

If there is no reloading data for a certain Hull do not reload it.
 
Win/64 said:
These shells are junk when they come new from the factory. Why anyone would even consider reloading them is beyond me. The only "promo" Hull you should even consider reloading is the Rem. Gun Club.

If there is no reloading data for a certain Hull do not reload it.
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Right or wrong I can give you a partial, fairly complicated answer to this one Win/64. One thing is that I hate the idea of wasting things. There just seems to be something wrong with using something once and throwing it away. Another thing is the faint hope that one might get something for nothing...I know there is no free lunch, but... Jeez Win/64 there just laying there waiting to be picked up!!!
I have reloaded these hulls quite a bit, but only once or twice before throwing them away like CR says. My Ponsness Warren press seems to do a good job on crimping them. Less of a good job with the MEC for some reason. No doubt in my mind it is better to stick with AA's or Remington like you say.
 
BCFred said:
Right or wrong I can give you a partial, fairly complicated answer to this one Win/64. One thing is that I hate the idea of wasting things. There just seems to be something wrong with using something once and throwing it away. Another thing is the faint hope that one might get something for nothing...I know there is no free lunch, but... Jeez Win/64 there just laying there waiting to be picked up!!!
I have reloaded these hulls quite a bit, but only once or twice before throwing them away like CR says. My Ponsness Warren press seems to do a good job on crimping them. Less of a good job with the MEC for some reason. No doubt in my mind it is better to stick with AA's or Remington like you say.
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What published load data do you use?
 
rembolt said:
While were on the subject of reloading promo hulls does any one reload Federal top gun hulls.
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Hi Rembolt:
Not sure if they are the same ones but I think they are. We did and will continue to reload the old Federal value packs that walmart sold probally 5-7 years ago .They may be different today I am not sure.We kept about 5000 back then which I reload once in 12ga 1 1/8 oz for two friends I shoot with and we toss them after 1 reload. It was a published load which I can find in my book if I look. Only problem I had was it was best to reload them on the single stage since the progressive would crush and bulge out the sides.
This is the box
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Ok since asking the question I was on the Federal site and they actually show data for reloading ,Top guns,Field & Target and Wing shok and one other I can't remember.which only stands to reason because yesterday I was at the range and bagged up 3 five gallon buckets of them and put them out with the garbage.I may have to find some federal primers and wads and give them a try when the next lot accumulates.
 
rembolt said:
Ok since asking the question I was on the Federal site and they actually show data for reloading ,Top guns,Field & Target and Wing shok and one other I can't remember.which only stands to reason because yesterday I was at the range and bagged up 3 five gallon buckets of them and put them out with the garbage.I may have to find some federal primers and wads and give them a try when the next lot accumulates.
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I will have to check my book but I am using win 209 and claybusters in them but not the federal ones the cb1118's. Same stuff I use in AA and sts just a different powder charge if I recall correctly.Makes it real simple
 
rembolt said:
While were on the subject of reloading promo hulls does any one reload Federal top gun hulls.
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I have loaded quite a few. I used gold medal data and they really shoot nice. Feel soft, but break targets hard. They might be able to handle a few more loadings but they have a paper base wad and I drop them after one loading. Most of the time, I like to shoot them in a break action gun, but I have never seen a base wad left behind. One thing I have noticed is they need to be put through my mec super sizer to run smoothly through my pw. I also noticed that even with federal primers they don't seat 100% flush. I saw a remedy for this on sgworld but for one loading I do not bother. Of all the plastic hulls I load, I like the smell of top guns the best. That burning base wad reminds me of the smell of federals famous paper load.:onCrack::D
 
Win/64 said:
What published load data do you use?[/QUOTE
This is not a recommendation of course, but I use data for AA hulls, Win 209 primers and WAA12 wads or equivalent. Back when I started doing this I read in the Lyman reloading manual about cases with separate base wads, which they say are often called Reifenhauser or Polyformed. They said the cases should not be subjected to more than three firings because of the separate base wad and the fact that it could be made of various materials. The "Winchester AA High Strength target hull" was an exception. The upshot is that one would like to know what the quality of the plastic base wad is in the polyformed Winchester cheapie, but it is plastic. I traced some loads for the polyformed WAA hulls with plastic base wads in the 4th ed of Fackler and McPherson. One 1 oz load with W209 primer and WAA12F1 wad (equivalent to WAA12SL) was 22 grains of Red Dot yielding 1290 ft/sec at 7600 psi, which sounded very low pressure to me for the amount of powder used. So, the cases, in spite of the fact they are called Winchester Polyformed might not be equivalent to the present day cheapies. At any rate, rightly or wrongly, I assumed I would be OK as long as I inspected the cases carefully, stuck with fairly low pressure loads and didn't fire them more than three times. So far, I've gotten away with it, but I'm doing it less and less often as my collection of better hulls gets bigger. Still, like I said, I hate to throw things away. I know I'm not being completely sensible here and would be glad to hear any comments anyone has about the approach.
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I load Top Gun and Kent hulls and have at times used Top Guns three times, but I watch the base wad in them to make sure they aren't deteriorating too badly. So, I'm a bit looser than CR. I really like the CB6100-12 wad for straight-walled hulls with these cases and my load is 1 oz lead with 18 grains of Promo. I did use CCI209, W209 and Cheddite 209 primers with them on different occasions. These figures, of course, are not a recommendation and when I'm finished with the CB wads I have left I'm going to stick with Remington and Winchester hulls in the future. It just gets too darned complicated loading all these different kinds of hulls and wads and so on. Interesting though...;)
 
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