VZ58 bolt carrier tapping

TIG is pretty much the only option. Getting on the inside angle with anything else is impossible. It's too small of a area to work in.
 
Ridge_Fridge said:
Just to satisfy my curiosity (not trying to hijack your thread) but what is "bolt carrier tapping"?
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He meant "tabbing". Tabbing the bolt carrier adds a small piece of steel to the carrier so the trigger "gremlin" (lack of reset) doesn't occur. Search the forum, there's lots of explanations.
 
One dealer tried tabbing with a hobby stick welder... Needless to say we retabbed several of them after the tabs blew off in the action.
 
Thanks guys, I'm slowly learning here but I still have questions, specially for Neit:

Can the tabs be welded with a hobby TIG welder, like the Thermal Arc 95S? Can the weld be done without the argon gas? I have no idea how much argon costs, but my guess would be that it's not worth it for a hobbyist not looking to make a profit in welding.

I ask because I am thinking about buying one of those small welding machines, just for the fun of it. If I do buy it, I might as well go for one that would allow me to weld small gun parts, if I ever need it. I watched a video about welding today, on Midway's website. The guy on it also recommended TIG as the best option for small gun parts welding. I just have no idea how expensive this can be, once you add a small argon bottle to the kit. :confused:
 
Interesting supernova! Where can the adapter be bought, same place as the machine? Which CO2 bottles do you recommend and how long do they last?

Also, other than welding a tab to the CZ858 carrier, can TIG be used to weld raw iron used on a decorative piece?

Thanks.
 
You guys know there is a cheaper & easier way of correcting this issue with out the need for tabing right???
Although if you really need to do this I would get NeitArms or bronco to due it for ya. As they have it done so many by now.
 
I picked up the adaptor for about $10 at Princess Auto, but both my C02 tanks have expired and the shops wont fill them. It doesnt work with a pin valve, so I'm gonna need one with an on/off. You can ask the guys at the shop you bought from, they probably have all kinds of stuff like that
 
You can scratch start tig welding DC only ( steels and SS ) from a regular bozz box......But you'll need a hefty diode bridge, Too much work and mickey mouse for the average guy.

That 95S will do stick and TIG, I believe scratch start / lift arc........For what you want to do it will be just fine, You will how ever need to get your self some 100% argon, buy a used bottle or grab your self a small one 2-3 footer form KMStools.

I advise you not to play around with mixed gasses and bottles, Argon tanks should be used and filled with argon containing tanks, they cross contaminate mixed gas tanks like argon/co2 - as does the diaphragm on the pressure regulator.

If you are BC - GVRD? Drop by ill do it for free.

PM me for more questions.
 
Gun Lover said:
Please, feel free to elaborate.
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There are 2 other ways I know of.
Cyanide Ride said:
All I know is that this method is the most cost effective (next to nill) abit heavier trigger pull BUT better trigger feel (if that makes sense)

Here are the pics after a hot water bath just before a good cleaning and oiling:

P1010008-1.jpg

The yellow arrow refers to what I've been calling a "leaf" spring. In the original versions of these rifles, there should be two of these pressing upwards, but for whatever reason when they modified these for the Canadian consumer, the removed one of these leaf springs.

P1010009.jpg


I don't have an exact measurement of the springs tension, but it is fairly stiff.

I've fired prone, almost sideways and rapid. No missed shots or ill timed clicks.

Hope that helps shed some light on the situation.
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Then there is another way that has to do with a washer placed in the excess space were your trigger cut out is on the reciever. I noticed on 1 that I had that the trigger would do this "Walking" motion if I was to hold down on the trigger while cycling the action then tring to ride it out to press it again. This prevented it from moving farther to the left and thus took care of the problem. Although I do believe that this might be mistaken for the "gremilin" but instead is a lack from Q/C.
IMG00262.jpg


Now the reason why this happens to the 858. I blame it soley on the "striker fire" design system on this rifle that had a very important saftey feature that was removed in order to only be able to shoot semi instead of full auto. Here is what the sear part should look like and with out getting into to much detail. I soley blame the "gremilin" on the lack of this part.
ndsa58_58.jpg
 
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