hey guys, i used to hunt mountain goat and am looking to get back into it, but im not totally sure about what caliber to get. I was thinking something in a short action that is cheap to shoot at the range and good for long shots and can take a goat down. any ideas?
Good mountain goat caliber?
- Thread starter scollins
- Start date
I'm no expert, but would venture that a 243, 250AI, 260, 7/08, 270WSM, 7WSM, 7SAUM would be up to the task in a SA. How bout a 25/06, 6.5/06, 270Win, 280 in a LA. Did I miss any?Billies are tougher now.
I'd personally use my 257Roberts and have to learn how to shoot at greater distance than we see here in the East.
.
I used a .308 on mine. After watching how tough these animals are and deboning one and witnessing the disproportionate muscle and bone mass, I'd be inclined to used .260rem with a very stout bullet as a minimum. You do not want these animals to move an inch after they're hit, as a 1000' elevator ride is usualy a couple steps away. I've only shot one, so take my advice for what it's worth
If I could I'd take my .325wsm after them next time. But I like my 6lb .308 better
If I could I'd take my .325wsm after them next time. But I like my 6lb .308 better
Goats do have a reputation for being very tough to kill. Books on the subject often reccommend a 300 magnum.
I have shot a few goats with a 30-06, but tutored a young son on a goat hunt and watched him make a one shot kill on a nice billy, with his 243.
A hunting partner failed to kill a billy with his 257 Roberts, with at least two hits. It got around the other side of the mountain where I was. Five goats came around, I was about to pick one, when I saw this one lagging behind. I wondered if maybe the 257 didn't kill it, so I shot it, and sure enough, it was the one that was hit.
As a point of interest, most of my goats were shot with iron sights, a Lyman #48 aperature on my 30-06 Swede rifle. It killed every goat I shot it at.
I have shot a few goats with a 30-06, but tutored a young son on a goat hunt and watched him make a one shot kill on a nice billy, with his 243.
A hunting partner failed to kill a billy with his 257 Roberts, with at least two hits. It got around the other side of the mountain where I was. Five goats came around, I was about to pick one, when I saw this one lagging behind. I wondered if maybe the 257 didn't kill it, so I shot it, and sure enough, it was the one that was hit.
As a point of interest, most of my goats were shot with iron sights, a Lyman #48 aperature on my 30-06 Swede rifle. It killed every goat I shot it at.
pete dobinson
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Courtenay BC.
I have a 284 win that Im thinking about selling, of course you would need to reload for it though.
Featherweight 30-06=near ideal mountain rifle.
You could load a 165 grain bullet to 2900+ fps. Mine registered 2912 average for five, over an Oehler chronograph, with 31 fps spread and absolutely no excessive pressure.
The difference in trajectory between this and a 130 in a 270, would likely never be seen in the field.
But, don't make the mistake of weighting that nice rifle down with a large, high power, variable scope.
If you are a trained shooter with high quality aperature rear sights and good post for a front sight, I could put up a good argument for using this in the mountains. I have shot quite a few mountain game animals with just such a rig, and never failed to kill every one I shot at. The rifle is just such a dream to carry, as compared to one with alarge scope. I have never cursed my aperature sights in the mountains, but I have sure as hell cursed a new "fogproof" scope, that got so fogged up I couldn't see through it!
Back in the days when shooting and hunting were words you proudly spoke in any company and scopes were coming in to their own, it was always the lower power ones used. Many a well heeled hunter, hiring a mountain outfitter with a huge string of horses for a month long hunt in the Rockies, would have a fixed power Weaver, usually a K4, on his rifle.
In my opinion, the best scope for your light mountain rifle, would be a high quality, fixed four power.
I have never hunted goats but am really looking to get into it in the next few years. I'll be using a 280 AI if I ever make it out on a goat hunt. Or if the barrel ever shows up so my dad can chamber and screw it together. Im not sure which will happen first! haha
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Getting ready for a goat hunt, by priority.
1) Get into good physical shape, by working the legs and lungs for maybe two months prior to going.
You will do a lot of hard climbing, so remember, count the weight you will take by pounds, but every ounce counts.
2) Get a good pair of boots, meant for use in the mountains, but of lightest weight you can get, that will still have sufficient support, and wear them for considerable periods of tough break in, well before you go.
Reasonably warm, but not heavy weight, breathable pants and jacket.
3) Take a good binocular, a good one as light as you can, of 7 or 8 power.
4) How long are you going to be up there and where are you going to sleep? Take the lightest possible means for a rain proof shelter and a very light, warm sleeping bag.
5) Whether you like to eat it, or not, freeze dried packaged food is the best way to go. Take one light, small pail, for making tea and coffee, plus one more light pot for the other food. And don't forget waterproof matches and a light, sharp, hand axe, or hatchet, plus a quality folding knife, with blade about 4 inches long.
6) Get a good quality light pack board, with a good belly band. We used to swear by the old Trapper Nelson's, but have to admit, modern ones are far superior.
7) Take a rifle and about ten cartridges with you.
islandhunter
CGN Regular
- Location
- princeton b.c.
Check out some videos with goat hunts, and you'll see what kind of lead they can eat up without flinching. I think all the old cartridges would work, but if given the choice would use a magnum.
LongBomber
CGN Regular
- Location
- Fernie, bc
A big billy runs over 300 pounds and is a very solid animal. And yes they are tough, but like any other animal they are dead if hit in the right place. The only thing is you want the goat to bang-flop with little to no kicking. With a bit of a tumble a goat will break the horn tips and do serious damage to the eye lid / cheeks, which is fairly tough for a taxi to fix if you are going to mount it. Fixing horn tips is no big deal.
Personally I would look at a goat the same as a large bodied mule deer. The shoulders are pretty thick, about twice as much muscle thickness as a mule deer. A light rifle is nice, but if your only going goat hunting once in a while there is no point in buying/building a 6 pound (all in) rifle. Any standard T3, rem sps etc will be fine. I would just use a standard old 30-06 or 270 with a decent bullet (accubond, ttsx, etc.). A 300 mag is nice, but far from necessary. I hunt pretty much exclusively high elevation so I have a 6 pound 8 ounce, all in, 325wsm good for goats/elk and bears. With 200gr accubonds or 160ttsx it is pretty effective, and with a limbsaver recoil pad it is easy to shoot. H4831 had some pretty good advice.
Personally I would look at a goat the same as a large bodied mule deer. The shoulders are pretty thick, about twice as much muscle thickness as a mule deer. A light rifle is nice, but if your only going goat hunting once in a while there is no point in buying/building a 6 pound (all in) rifle. Any standard T3, rem sps etc will be fine. I would just use a standard old 30-06 or 270 with a decent bullet (accubond, ttsx, etc.). A 300 mag is nice, but far from necessary. I hunt pretty much exclusively high elevation so I have a 6 pound 8 ounce, all in, 325wsm good for goats/elk and bears. With 200gr accubonds or 160ttsx it is pretty effective, and with a limbsaver recoil pad it is easy to shoot. H4831 had some pretty good advice.
