Help! Norico M305b reassambly

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leonchyi

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I'm new to firearms. I got my first rifle - norico m305b - from master last thursday; and yesterday I finally got time to desassambly and degrease the gun. I followed some instructions from the forum (thank you so much guys) and also a m14s disassambly video on Youtube. Everything was fine until the last part of reassambly - I CAN'T PUSH THE TRIGGER GUARD BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION. In the Youtube video, the guy was able to push it back very easily; however, I couldn't manage to do it. I pushed the little rail into the notch with no problem, but that was it; the trigger guard cannot go down any further. The video I followed was this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYqeyISsezo. Could you please help me out?

Also, my friend told me to never dry fire a firearm, but I might accidentally dry fired once while pushing this stupid trigger guard back to position. Is it a big deal? Should I do something to investigate the damage?

:bangHead:

Thank you for your reading.
 
Make sure the receiver is fully seated in the stock... make sure the trigger pads on the trigger group are fully touching the recesses in the stock... then push down harder. if it came out it's gotta go back in.

Dry firing is fine. I wouldn't do it alot, but dry firing every now and again won't hurt your rifle
 
The trigger assembly comes out of the rifle and goes back in cocked and on safe. New rifles can be a bit stiff; try giving the trigger guard a rap with the heel of your hand once you have determined that it is properly in place.

I don't think you have damaged your rifle. Dry firing shouldn't be a problem with most centrefires.
 
If it's aplastic stock, these can be tight for puttint the trigger back in.
As said above, hammmer should be cocked.
Also, I've found that sometimes you have to push down the very rear of the trigger a bit more to fully seat and bring it parralel.
 
Thank you for your advices. I'm at work right now, I'll try it out once I get home.

Another question: I checked some other materials saying I should use brass rod to clean the gun and better using a bore guide/muzzle protector to prevent damaging the muzzle crown. I didn't know that and used the mfg 4 pieces steel field cleaning kit without a bore guide. Although I tried my best to avoid contact the muzzle crown, it still touched a little I think. Did I damage the accuracy already even without a single fire?
 
leonchyi said:
Thank you for your advices. I'm at work right now, I'll try it out once I get home.

Another question: I checked some other materials saying I should use brass rod to clean the gun and better using a bore guide/muzzle protector to prevent damaging the muzzle crown. I didn't know that and used the mfg 4 pieces steel field cleaning kit without a bore guide. Although I tried my best to avoid contact the muzzle crown, it still touched a little I think. Did I damage the accuracy already even without a single fire?
Click to expand...

Not too likely. If there's no damage to the crown that you can see, you most likely didn't hurt anything.
 
Juster said:
The flash hider is a bore guide, but use a commercial cleaning kit next time.
Click to expand...

I will definitely use my remington cleaning kits for future cleaning. Got it from leBaron for $18.99 or something. :p

shredder said:
Not too likely. If there's no damage to the crown that you can see, you most likely didn't hurt anything.
Click to expand...

I will check it out immediately when I get home.
 
If you have the stock flash supressor grab a used 12g shotgun shell and knock out the primer cap. Instant cleaning rod guide. fits perfectly over the supressor. Saw this posted on this board a long time ago and it works well. Lots of used shells at the range.
 
Warrdog said:
If you have the stock flash supressor grab a used 12g shotgun shell and knock out the primer cap. Instant cleaning rod guide. fits perfectly over the supressor. Saw this posted on this board a long time ago and it works well. Lots of used shells at the range.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I learned too. Thank you.
 
Thank you very much guys. I finally managed to put it in. It turned out, the receiver didn't seat in the stock. Maybe because it is a new rifle, it is very hard to push the stock back on its position. I used a little grease and "jumped on" it, then the problem solved.
 
leonchyi said:
Also, my friend told me to never dry fire a firearm, but I might accidentally dry fired once while pushing this stupid trigger guard back to position. Is it a big deal? Should I do something to investigate the damage?
Click to expand...

The M305 can be dry fired. I think it may have been stipulated at the time of design.
 
you have to remember you're talking about a MILITARY rifle- something that gets dry-fired THOUSANDS of times for every live round that goes through it-drill, whatever- even the buttplate is going to get banged a few times on the floor in it's lifetime- the only thing that's going to break MAYBE will be the HAMMER, and that's from going forward with NOTHING to stop it- and, beleive me, you WILL NOTICE a broken hammer- YOU GUYS NEED TO QUIT TREATING THESE THINGS LIKE PRINCESSES- they're MEANT to to be rough handled , and will stand up to the sh*t and abuse- the only way you're going to harm it is if it's apart and you PURPOSELY do something- slamming and banging isn't going to hurt it one little bit
 
you will find you need to drill out the 12 guage hull just a little larger than the primer so the rod can slip back and forth easily
 
t-star said:
you have to remember you're talking about a MILITARY rifle- something that gets dry-fired THOUSANDS of times for every live round that goes through it-drill, whatever- even the buttplate is going to get banged a few times on the floor in it's lifetime- the only thing that's going to break MAYBE will be the HAMMER, and that's from going forward with NOTHING to stop it- and, beleive me, you WILL NOTICE a broken hammer- YOU GUYS NEED TO QUIT TREATING THESE THINGS LIKE PRINCESSES- they're MEANT to to be rough handled , and will stand up to the sh*t and abuse- the only way you're going to harm it is if it's apart and you PURPOSELY do something- slamming and banging isn't going to hurt it one little bit
Click to expand...

THANK YOU. Everyone was always telling me don't dry fire, don't this, don't that...Its a friggin military, rough finished, and rough use-intended rifle! My cz858 is too. My dad was in the Polish army, and he told me after every AK47 reassembly exercise, they'd be required to fire a dry fire, to ensure the chamber was clear and the firing pin was released.

No princessing indeed! Manhandle that b!tch! hahaha
 
After re-assembly you should function test.

Work the bolt. (The hammer should stay too the rear)
Put safety on.
Pull trigger. There should be no "click". (If there is a click, your safety doesn't work)
Safety off.
Pull AND HOLD the trigger. (The hammer will fall with a very audible sound)
WHILE HOLDING THE TRIGGER work the bolt.
Let the trigger go.
There should be an audible "clack". (Sear engaging)
Pull the trigger. The action should "fire".

If this works out, your rifle should fire normally and safely. I hope I didn't miss anything, but I'm sure the boys will chime in.
 
well, since this is my first rifle, it is kinda difficult to turn the little princess to a b****. Things may change as time goes on, but thanks for the advice. I feel so much relieved. LOL.:p
 
Petrock said:
After re-assembly you should function test.

Work the bolt. (The hammer should stay too the rear)
Put safety on.
Pull trigger. There should be no "click". (If there is a click, your safety doesn't work)
Safety off.
Pull AND HOLD the trigger. (The hammer will fall with a very audible sound)
WHILE HOLDING THE TRIGGER work the bolt.
Let the trigger go.
There should be an audible "clack". (Sear engaging)
Pull the trigger. The action should "fire".

If this works out, your rifle should fire normally and safely. I hope I didn't miss anything, but I'm sure the boys will chime in.
Click to expand...

Thank you Petrock. I'll do the test tonight. I did find something last night after I cleaned the magazines -

I used A-Zoom Metal Snap Caps (Practice Ammo) to test the action. After a cartridge loaded in chamber, it was really hard to manually extract the chambered round and eject it. I felt that the bolt was stucked somewhere halfway (I might be wrong since I'm new to guns). I had to release the op rod and pull it rearwards again. Sometimes it took several repeats until I could eject the practice cartridge (or maybe I pulled harder on the successful ones?). Is there something wrong with the gun or did I make mistakes while assambling? I did lubricate the op rod ways, left side of receiver in bolt lug ways, bolt roller, bolt roller recess, right bolt lug contact point, and upper inside of receiver behind bolt (I read the lubricate instruction on m14.ca).
 
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