Squib Load

schk9

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I was at the range this morning and was just beginning to shoot my S&W 686. The first round (I was using reloads) had no powder just the primer and I now have a projectile stuck in the barrel just past the forcing cone. What is the the best way to get it out? Is this a DIY or do I needs gunsmith?
 
I've seen this type of thing happen a couple of times. You can take a piece of dowelling rod and a rubber mallet and tap out the bullet. It will require force but the wood of the dowel should not mar your barrel.
 
It happens and it will happen again. ARMCo sells squib rods. Get one for each caliber you reload for. Money well spent.

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http://www.armco-guns.com/Used%20Guns%20For%20Sale.htm

M
 
A nice piece of brass or aluminum rod works well also. They are soft enough not to damage the barrel. I've been lucky enough not to use it in any of my guns, but it has seen action in a few guns at IPSC matches where alot of people are shooting reloads.
 
Squibs!

Wooden dowel for sure. Stick it down the barrel and just wack the gun muzzel down with dowel sticking out onto any wooded surface like a shooting bench and the squib will just pop out backwards. Done it a few times on a 1911. Just unload. #### hammer and throw on the safety and use the above method.
 
Wooden dowel for sure. Stick it down the barrel and just wack the gun muzzel down with dowel sticking out onto any wooded surface like a shooting bench and the squib will just pop out backwards. Done it a few times on a 1911. Just unload. #### hammer and throw on the safety and use the above method.

Yep. don't spend money on ''squib rods'', just make one yourself. Wood works. Brass rods work.
 
It will also be easier to get the bullet out if you put a few drops of oil down the barrel,behind the base of the bullet,leave the gun muzzle down a few hours,and then tap it out
 
alsmost any rod will work- personally, i use a bit of welding rod from canadian tire wrapped in electricians tape, cut to the LENGTH OF YOUR BARREL AND A INCH OR SO- that way it drops free with the cylinder open- for 357 you need a rod of11/32( .343) and add a bit for the tape so you come out roughly 350 or so- i tend to STAY AWAY FROM WOOD b/c it can shatter inside the barrel and leave you in a worse mess- if you use a rod that is MUCH smaller than your bord diameter, you can also PUNCH RIGHT THROUGH THE BULLET, again, leaving a worse mess
 
Wood dowel can work or it can split and wedge badly in place if the wood grain has a lot of runout. Personally I'd suggest you get some brass rod to make up your own squib rods. Home Depot, Rona and likely other places sell brass rod in 3 foot lengths. So team together with some buddies and buy a rod of it and cut it down to suit your guns.

You'll want a piece of 3/16's for .22 rods and a piece of 5/16 for .357 and 9mm. If you have a .40 or .45 you can either just use the 5/16 rod or you can splurge and get a piece of 3/8 rod to make up a rod for the big bores.

As mentioned make it about an inch or two longer than your barrels. For handguns that means a 3 foot piece of each size will easily make up 4 sets of rods to cover all your bases from .22 on up. Cutting it into 5 would give you rods of 7 1/8 with the saw cut. A rod that long would be good for everything other than some of the longer barrel revolvers.
 
If your reloading why not make a squib round? I reload all my rounds and every 1,000 I'll make 10 squib rounds. Quick and easy and pushes the bullet out at a low velocity, no muss no fuss. That's just me though.
 
If you need "squib rounds" at all let alone 10 per 1000 rounds you make maybe reloading isn't for you!!! A brass rod is a much better solution and isn't an awful, stupid idea.
 
As I said, purchasing squib rods is money well spent. I picked up a set and haven't had a squib since;)

M
 
If your reloading why not make a squib round? I reload all my rounds and every 1,000 I'll make 10 squib rounds. Quick and easy and pushes the bullet out at a low velocity, no muss no fuss. That's just me though.

Can you elaborate and go through the specifics on how you make your "squib rounds" and how they work in dislodging a bullet stuck in a barrel?

I was at the range this morning and was just beginning to shoot my S&W 686. The first round (I was using reloads) had no powder just the primer and I now have a projectile stuck in the barrel just past the forcing cone. What is the the best way to get it out? Is this a DIY or do I needs gunsmith?

alsmost any rod will work- personally, i use a bit of welding rod from canadian tire wrapped in electricians tape, cut to the LENGTH OF YOUR BARREL AND A INCH OR SO- that way it drops free with the cylinder open- for 357 you need a rod of11/32( .343) and add a bit for the tape so you come out roughly 350 or so- i tend to STAY AWAY FROM WOOD b/c it can shatter inside the barrel and leave you in a worse mess- if you use a rod that is MUCH smaller than your bord diameter, you can also PUNCH RIGHT THROUGH THE BULLET, again, leaving a worse mess

May or may not need a gunsmith? As Tstar said be careful not to drive the rod right thru the bullet, leaving the jacket stuck to the inner wall of the barrel. I dunno i'm no pro but maybe try pounding it out and if you can't get it out with a reasonable amount of force maybe worth taking to a smith??? I had a squib last summer, i pounded and pounded and it wouldn't budge, then i took it to a gun shop where a worker did the same with no success. I then took to a reputable gunsmith and showed him and told him the story. After scolding me as well as making fun of me and the guy at the gun shop he proceeded to get the bullet out using none of the above mentioned methods, while suggesting it's a possibility i may have damaged my barrel. Ha either way it worked out, didn't wreck my gun and cost me $50... could have been worse!!! :D

I dunno, like i said if you can pound it out with decent effort that's great, but if it starts to seem dicey maybe it's $50 well spent at a smith.... :confused::confused:
 
My solution is to fill the portion of the barrel that is behind the bullet with water and fire a primer over it. Depending how far down the barrel the bullet is stuck and the length of the barrel, and whether the bullet is cast or jacketed, will determine how many times the process must be repeated to clear the bullet from the bore. Water is not compressible, so it acts as a solid rod or perhaps more like an extension of the bullet. But becasue it is not hard like wood, brass or steel, it can do no harm to your bore, or to the muzzle if someone was a bit carelkess with a hammer blow. I've cleared stuck bullets numerous times using this method, in both pistols and revolvers with no ill effects, so disregard the cries that the process will result in a ringed barrel that are sure to follow. Those who make such a claim are not speaking from experience.
 
i've been at this some 40+ years, and i've seen smiths use everything from a simple rod to water, to oil, even a torch to get a bullet out- it all depends on WHERE the bullet is in the barrel- most squibs deposit the bullet right at the end of the barrel, just past the forcing cone- you can usually SEE the bullet sitting there, about an inch or 2 in- the ones that are half way down the barrel or better MIGHT very well take a smith- the water thing works like a piston, b/c water is not comprssible- same with oil-the rod is a FIELD EXPEDIENTsolution- you have to remember one other thing-about damaging the bore- the smith is there to MAKE MONEY - if he can convince you that you NEED a new barrel ,he's going to try- the ONLY way you need a new barrel after a squib is 1) you tried to fire it out with another round and the resulting HIGH PRESSURE EXPANDED the barrel - you see this in blackpowder sometimes as a result of not cleaning the barrel
or2)you've scratched( ie gouged) the bore somehow
if you've cleared it properly, you don't need a new barrel- a bullet simply CANNOT scratch the bore on it's own- indeed, how do you think we SLUG THE BORE to get proper diameter for our bullets-?- you use a SOFT LEAD SLUG and drive it through with a ROD AND HAMMER
 
while it may seem obvious, PUT THE ROD IN FROM THE MUZZLE, and FORCE THE BULLET BACKWARDS- that's for those folks that have an automatic or dismountable barrel- sure as shooting, SOMEONE will try it the OTHER WAY
 
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