We all know what the factory CSA carbines/rifles look like. Just like many of you, I've chosen to do some customization to mine. Here is a step by step description/pics of what I've done, with a few ideas that I hope may inspire some of you...
First, we simply have to get rid of the original muzzle device (imagine the voice of some fancy-schmancy fashion designer saying this
). See above.
I've never been happy with some of the the pseudo-krinkov devices currently on the aftermarket. So, I had to come up with a way to attach the real thing. Not as easy as it sounds due to the 24 x 1.5 mm thread of the original krink device and the 14 x 1 thread (as far as I'm aware) on the AK/Czech muzzle. Thread adapters abound for this down South for about $10, but the Czechs just had to be different. The $10 adapters are for the AK left hand thread. The CSA's/Vz 858's have a right hand thread.
Unfortunately, I'm not a tradesman, nor do I own a major amount of tools, so it was off to my semi/retired gunsmith friend for some machine work. After a few weeks and some cash and fancy cigars, I had what I needed to proceed.
We now have a thread adapter to put the real krink muzzle device on. I had this 5.45 caliber leftover from a previous project/build. It actually helped reliability somewhat over the original. Accuracy also changed as well. Previously winchester white box FMJ (55gr) was most accurate (about 2 to 2.5 moa with multiple 3 shot groups), followed by American Eagle FMJ at 3 to 3.5 moa. Adding this particular muzzle device switched rankings of this ammo. Also, Rem .223 fmj had been giving me some ejection problems with the previous device, but seemed to resolve with this new muzzle device.
The next thing that I wanted to do was to replace the black furniture. Many of you have gone with wood replacements (that look great BTW). I like the looks, but I don't like the "temperament" of wood--having to worry about maintaining the looks/watching the dings. I also didn't want to pay $200 for a set.
I came up with the idea of using automotive type decals. I recall seeing a PT Cruiser with the fake wood side panel (decals) on the doors and wondered if a wood grain decal can be applied to the handguards. The decals themselves are warranted for something like 5 years of outside weather exposure--so in this regard, I should be O.K. If things work out, I'd get the look of wood, with the toughness of the original plastic handgaurds.
I found a place that had small sample sheets for about $8 a piece; But of course, they don't send to Kanada. Since a middle man (like Bongo International) increased costs significantly for such small sample sheets, I ended up ordering much larger sheets (approx 24" x 30") for about $15 ish. I ordered an oak finish and a walnut sheet. Total came out to about $45 with shipping. I felt the oak was too light, so what you see here is the walnut finish. It was tricky applying the decals--if you go this route, use a hairdryer to help soften the plastic and "bend" it around the curves. It also helps adhesion considerably. I was worried that over time, these could peel off, so I applied permanent glue/epoxy to the edges (you can see the smears on the pics). Next time, I have to get a less "goopy" glue to work with
I think that I may also use a thin glue underneath the entire decal to help aviod potential bubbles, etc., from raising up afterwards. So far, things seem to be adhering well. Time will tell.
Next, let's get rid of that uncomfortable stock. Yes, I know it looks cool, but how can you hit stuff at distance when the stock strut threatens to vibrate your fillings loose? This simply won't do......
Venom bullet beat me to this idea. I had an original krink style stock and wanted to have it welded to the original CSA strut style stock (for that all important krinkov look). I had to wait a few weeks for my gunsmith to get to it. Venom did it himself and showed the results on these forums some time ago. I like to think that good minds think alike
Here's how the handguards worked out. It was a good thing I glued the edges down, because when fitting the guards back on, the decal edges "smeared" off a bit in a couple areas due to the tight fit of the guards. I applied glue and tucked in the edges with a small tool.
Next step---I debated which pistol grip I should use. The original, or really try for that Krink look with an AK grip.
The AK grip fits (you need an AK grip screw however), but there are fitting problems. The pistol grip base is oval (for the original pistol grip to seat on), AK grips are rectangular, so these gaps need to be filled with something to support the rectangular grip---otherwise as you tighten the grip screw, the pistol grip goes crooked/awry. I thought that this was too much trouble to do right now ( I was going to fill in the gaps and base the PG with glass bedding compound), so I settled with spray painting the original black plastic grip a brown walnut colour to match the handguards somewhat. Original krinks have pistol grips of various colours, so I felt this was an acceptable shortcut.
Finally, let's take some looks at the final product. My goal was to make this look like a krink, or even a "100" series AK. Krink barrels are approx 10" I believe--this CSA carbine is a 12", so we won't be exact, but I expect to be close.
Her's a left side view. Notice the notch filed into the scope rail. This was so as to accept the "other style" of AK optics that are out there.
Right side view (obviously)
Right side folded.
If you look carefully, you'll notice that there isn't a mag release paddle. This is because I just had this returned from North Sylva/Casey B. for the AR mag well conversion. See pics below.
Right side AR mag well
I'm not sure if I will stay with this AR-15 mag conversion. I'm tempted to switch the components back so as to use the original CSA 223 mags and paddle release system. In the goal of having/being as authentically AK/Krink-like as I can get. To do this, I need to get an ambidextrous mag release, so the mags can be changed (with either hand) as on the AK series.
The NEA Ambi releases seem to have dried up mostly, but on another thread, 1965BJS suggested use of a "hammer extension" (as sold by Uncle Mikes') to attach to the original paddle, thereby giving a better surface to release the mags with. Ahhhhh!!!! What do I do!!!!
Well, lets' wrap this thread up with a final side by side comparison. Following is my CSA "conversion" (top) compared to my Krink build (in 762 caliber). You'll notice that the drop in comb is sharper on the CSA simply because it couldn't be straighter (like the Krink) due to the fact that when folded, my CSA krink stock would interfere with the bolt handle,
That's it folks....I hope that you've enjoyed this read on this Easter weekend, and that I've given ya'all some ideas/inspired you to try some of this yourselves.
Oh, I forgot....Remember how I mentioned that notch that I needed to file on the scope mount rail?
Well, it was so that I could mount the PK-AS "Pitbull" optic (below).
First, we simply have to get rid of the original muzzle device (imagine the voice of some fancy-schmancy fashion designer saying this
). See above. I've never been happy with some of the the pseudo-krinkov devices currently on the aftermarket. So, I had to come up with a way to attach the real thing. Not as easy as it sounds due to the 24 x 1.5 mm thread of the original krink device and the 14 x 1 thread (as far as I'm aware) on the AK/Czech muzzle. Thread adapters abound for this down South for about $10, but the Czechs just had to be different
. The $10 adapters are for the AK left hand thread. The CSA's/Vz 858's have a right hand thread.Unfortunately, I'm not a tradesman, nor do I own a major amount of tools, so it was off to my semi/retired gunsmith friend for some machine work. After a few weeks and some cash and fancy cigars, I had what I needed to proceed.
We now have a thread adapter to put the real krink muzzle device on. I had this 5.45 caliber leftover from a previous project/build. It actually helped reliability somewhat over the original. Accuracy also changed as well. Previously winchester white box FMJ (55gr) was most accurate (about 2 to 2.5 moa with multiple 3 shot groups), followed by American Eagle FMJ at 3 to 3.5 moa. Adding this particular muzzle device switched rankings of this ammo. Also, Rem .223 fmj had been giving me some ejection problems with the previous device, but seemed to resolve with this new muzzle device.
The next thing that I wanted to do was to replace the black furniture. Many of you have gone with wood replacements (that look great BTW). I like the looks, but I don't like the "temperament" of wood--having to worry about maintaining the looks/watching the dings. I also didn't want to pay $200 for a set.
I came up with the idea of using automotive type decals. I recall seeing a PT Cruiser with the fake wood side panel (decals) on the doors and wondered if a wood grain decal can be applied to the handguards. The decals themselves are warranted for something like 5 years of outside weather exposure--so in this regard, I should be O.K. If things work out, I'd get the look of wood, with the toughness of the original plastic handgaurds.
I found a place that had small sample sheets for about $8 a piece
; But of course, they don't send to Kanada. Since a middle man (like Bongo International) increased costs significantly for such small sample sheets, I ended up ordering much larger sheets (approx 24" x 30") for about $15 ish. I ordered an oak finish and a walnut sheet. Total came out to about $45 with shipping. I felt the oak was too light, so what you see here is the walnut finish. It was tricky applying the decals--if you go this route, use a hairdryer to help soften the plastic and "bend" it around the curves. It also helps adhesion considerably. I was worried that over time, these could peel off, so I applied permanent glue/epoxy to the edges (you can see the smears on the pics). Next time, I have to get a less "goopy" glue to work with I think that I may also use a thin glue underneath the entire decal to help aviod potential bubbles, etc., from raising up afterwards. So far, things seem to be adhering well. Time will tell.
Next, let's get rid of that uncomfortable stock. Yes, I know it looks cool, but how can you hit stuff at distance when the stock strut threatens to vibrate your fillings loose? This simply won't do......
Venom bullet beat me to this idea. I had an original krink style stock and wanted to have it welded to the original CSA strut style stock (for that all important krinkov look). I had to wait a few weeks for my gunsmith to get to it. Venom did it himself and showed the results on these forums some time ago. I like to think that good minds think alike
Here's how the handguards worked out. It was a good thing I glued the edges down, because when fitting the guards back on, the decal edges "smeared" off a bit in a couple areas due to the tight fit of the guards. I applied glue and tucked in the edges with a small tool.
Next step---I debated which pistol grip I should use. The original, or really try for that Krink look with an AK grip.
The AK grip fits (you need an AK grip screw however), but there are fitting problems. The pistol grip base is oval (for the original pistol grip to seat on), AK grips are rectangular, so these gaps need to be filled with something to support the rectangular grip---otherwise as you tighten the grip screw, the pistol grip goes crooked/awry. I thought that this was too much trouble to do right now ( I was going to fill in the gaps and base the PG with glass bedding compound), so I settled with spray painting the original black plastic grip a brown walnut colour to match the handguards somewhat. Original krinks have pistol grips of various colours, so I felt this was an acceptable shortcut.
Finally, let's take some looks at the final product. My goal was to make this look like a krink, or even a "100" series AK. Krink barrels are approx 10" I believe--this CSA carbine is a 12", so we won't be exact, but I expect to be close.
Her's a left side view. Notice the notch filed into the scope rail. This was so as to accept the "other style" of AK optics that are out there.
Right side view (obviously)
Right side folded.
If you look carefully, you'll notice that there isn't a mag release paddle. This is because I just had this returned from North Sylva/Casey B. for the AR mag well conversion. See pics below.
Right side AR mag well
I'm not sure if I will stay with this AR-15 mag conversion. I'm tempted to switch the components back so as to use the original CSA 223 mags and paddle release system. In the goal of having/being as authentically AK/Krink-like as I can get. To do this, I need to get an ambidextrous mag release, so the mags can be changed (with either hand) as on the AK series.
The NEA Ambi releases seem to have dried up mostly, but on another thread, 1965BJS suggested use of a "hammer extension" (as sold by Uncle Mikes') to attach to the original paddle, thereby giving a better surface to release the mags with. Ahhhhh!!!! What do I do!!!!
Well, lets' wrap this thread up with a final side by side comparison. Following is my CSA "conversion" (top) compared to my Krink build (in 762 caliber). You'll notice that the drop in comb is sharper on the CSA simply because it couldn't be straighter (like the Krink) due to the fact that when folded, my CSA krink stock would interfere with the bolt handle,
That's it folks....I hope that you've enjoyed this read on this Easter weekend, and that I've given ya'all some ideas/inspired you to try some of this yourselves.
Oh, I forgot....Remember how I mentioned that notch that I needed to file on the scope mount rail?
Well, it was so that I could mount the PK-AS "Pitbull" optic (below).
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