My Truck Gun Project

Tom E Gun

Tom E Gun

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Okanagan Valley, BC
Hi All;
I thought I would share a little project I am starting and hopefully get some useful advice along the way from the CGN brain trust.

PART 1:

I have been planning to get a "truck gun" for a while now. Something very basic and reliable that is cheap enough to leave in the truck all the time, with no worries about it being stolen or damaged. I'm thinking survival, unexpected hunting opportunities (i.e.: a couple of grouse sitting on the side of the trail), bear defence in a campsite, etc. I had always planned on a single shot 12 GA shotgun for this. My preference was for something light, compact, and simple. I was a planning on getting Dominion Arms Backpacker:

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However, I was just at the Kamloops Gun Show this past weekend and found this little gem. As soon as I picked it up I knew I had found my truck gun:

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It is an NEF Survivor, Pardner - Model SB, 12 GA 3" MOD. I first thought it had some type of matte stainless steel finish - but the H&R websites only lists blue or electroless nickel. So I guess it is electroless nickel. It is very light (5.3lb) and has a 20" barrel with a bead front sight. This shotgun appears to have been lightly used, and only has a few very light scratches. From what I can tell this appears to be a discontinued model. It is listed on the H&R website in .223, .308 and .410/.45LC but not in 12g a.
*Question: Can anyone tell me a range of dates that these were made, or how to get the age from the serial number? The seller had taken this in trade and did not know anything about it's history.

My first decision is whether to store this fully assembled in a gun case (36.5" long assembled) or store it disassembled in a more compact case (22.25" long disassembled). I am leaning towards keeping it assembled, so that is ready for
instant use.

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The next thing I would like to do is attach some type of shell holder on the right side of the stock. I am thinking about some type of hard plastic "side saddle" type shell holder that could be riveted or glued to the hollow stock. Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

I think I will leave the discussion about what to store in the various storage compartments for PART 2 of my post.

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Here is a link to give you a few ideas:
hxxp://www.zombiehunters.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=72375&sid=5a3f0d9eff179bc2cad221daca89af07
 
Well if you see a random grouse, you can normally stop, have a smoke, grap your rifle or shotgun, load it, walk around to find a good spot to shoot it from, and then shoot it so if you store it assembled or unassembled it probably won't matter much in the case of a grouse. Now for bears, I recommend you have something like an RPG for that. Bears have paranormal powers and can dodge normal rifle or shotgun rounds. However, they seem to not be able to dodge a rocket propelled gernade.... or wait.... or is it they just send it right back at you.... I can't remember, you will just have to try if for yourself. Now if it was me, Id have it assembled for quick useage since you can totally impress your friends with your awesome clay bird shooting skills way faster if the gun is already assembled. For the side sadle stuff, have you looked at the ATI web site? They have tones of ### stuff for the NEF and H&R pardner to make it super tactical for super clay bird shooting and oober tactical grouse hunting.
 
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I'd store it broke down and in a small case. It doesn't take long to assemble and is even functional without the forestock if you were pressed for time.
Breifcase,suitcase, soft nylon.....maybe even a roadside emergency case so it doesn't look out of place in the trunk.
If you wanted you could trim a bit off the barrel as well to make it closer in length to the rear portion.
Here's a practical and versatile made in Canada shell holder solution,
http://sjhardware.com/store/modules.php?name=catalog&file=product_info&cPath=107_125&products_id=328

Good project!
How do the ergonomics of that stock feel?
I've always thought that setup looked awkward but I've never held one....
 
One suggestion I have concerning the guns you show is to mount the bead on a pedestal equal to the height of the receiver. Having the bead down on the barrel will result in shooting over your target, particularly with slugs. I had a number of short barrel Winchester and Cooey 12 ga break action guns made up, some with beads other with rifle sights, even one with choke tubes. In hindsight, the H&R is a better gun for a number of reasons including a longer firing pin, a better positioned and more positive action release, and the ability to #### the hammer prior to ejecting the fired shell, making cycling from the shoulder more natural. I like the idea of a little gun that can be broken down and carried discreetly in a pack, particularly on well travelled trails in the south, or for that matter as a truck gun.
 
Thanks for the suggestions (well some of them anyway)

Can-down;
Thanks for the link regarding the shell holder, I like the $12 price too. I find the stock fits me very well, but as I have read previously on CGN, a thumbhole stock and an exposed hammer is a slightly awkward combination.

Boomer;
I have not heard of mounting the bead on a pedestal. I will wait until I have a chance to shoot it "as is" before I comment any further.
 
Both are pretty fancy for truck guns where they will get beat up and rusty.
I would not go single shot or likely even 12ga

Pick up an old 16 ga or 20 ga pump [cheap] mod it out to your legal liking throw it in the bus and there it is. Behind the seat wrapped in a rag works, in toolbox in back is better.

Have big shot, little shot, and a few slugs onhand

Thats how I have done it.
 
Tom E Gun said:
Geologist;
Are those sub-calibre (sub-gauge?) inserts I see in the top right corner of your case?
If so - how do you like them?
Click to expand...

The .22RF doesn't work well. The bullets from 4 different brands keyhole 50% of the time and increase the group size at 10 yards to 7" or 10". Only CCI CB longs didn't keyhole and shot a 6" group. I suspect the lower velocity allows the short rifling to stabilize the bullet.

The .38 Special works fine with no keyholing and 3"-4" groups from the left barrel of my Outlaw. Good enough for close range bunnies.
 
geologist said:
The .22RF doesn't work well. The bullets from 4 different brands keyhole 50% of the time and increase the group size at 10 yards to 7" or 10". Only CCI CB longs didn't keyhole and shot a 6" group. I suspect the lower velocity allows the short rifling to stabilize the bullet.

The .38 Special works fine with no keyholing and 3"-4" groups from the left barrel of my Outlaw. Good enough for close range bunnies.
Click to expand...

Interesting.... I have recently bought a .22 insert, 2x .410 inserts and a .45acp insert for my 12g a. I have not had a chance to try them out yet. Sounds like I wasted my money on the .22, hopefully the others will be worth while.

Cheers
 
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