My new NEA15 CQB Problems out of the box....

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I am happy with the lower it didn't have the "dremel" marks on it other than the trigger/sear/disconnect problem...

Ok so call me a fool if you want but I hate waiting for other people.. I knew what the issue is with this trigger set up. the disconnect was disconnecting too soon and the sear didn't have time to engage. so looking at the trigger i saw how the disconnect couldn't come forward enough to hold on to the hammer until the sear was able to engage. so i looked closer and there was too much material on the top of the trigger where the disconnect front rests. causing the disconnect to be released too soon when you begin to let off the trigger. I decided to fix the problem myself since the replacement parts are cheap if i f**ked up :). and as i mention earlier i hate waiting for other people. i slowly removed material from the high spot on the trigger (top of trigger sear?) just the part where the disconnect tip or front rests and tested removed a little more tested until it worked correctly. while i was in there the sear surfaces were very gritty so i whipped out the old "dremel" and put on me polishing wheel and smoothed up the 2 surfaces. reassemble function check 100% the trigger has smoothed considerably and though still over 8 lbs rough guess as i can hang the rifle by the trigger and it wont set off the trigger a bit of a jolt and it goes i need a trigger scale. when the trigger resets it fully seats the sear and has positive engagement. I never altered the sear faces other than the polish so nothing there is affected only the disconnect now sits forward enough to hold on a little bit longer allowing safe function of the rifle.

wondering about the springs and whether or not they are the source of the still somewhat heavy (though smoother) trigger which now functions flawlessly everything is working as it should still haven't checked the barrel nut or gas block. I should before i fire it just to be sure..
I don't want to and I didn't want to be "the guy" who had a bad review of a brand new rifle my first AR but this is poor QA. I would like them to replace the upper if these kind of "dremel" marks are not what should be expected. New is new and it is obvious now that i got a lemon. I know posting this they will likely want to take the easy way out and void my warranty.i hope they can understand that i didn't want to have to do any work on a brand new rifle that i have already waited long enough for. just to send it away again and possibly to do another transfer etc etc.. i don't see how this rifle made it through QA it had 3 casings and poker chip so it was supposedly test fired yet I could not bring the charging handle to the rear (and no i was not pulling down on it not that it should matter) this is my first AR but I have only been around guns a year learned first on an sks and a cz 858 and how these mechanisms work. i learn all there is to know before i buy a rifle. and take it apart to see what makes it tick and improvements made etc.

wow i wrote a novel ...

in closing,
i have no hate here this is not me trying to "flame" anyone i had this experience and i am letting my fellow cgners know what happened.

also i will post pics of the polish job it turned out very nice.
 
For what it's worth:
Just finished an intense SR course with Hungry. It was between 35-40 degrees on the two day course. Lots of mag failures, gun failures, brain fades by guys who had not stayed hydrated enough, etc. While it was an M14 course mainly, he asked some of us to shoot AR's. He mentioned, when talking about AR failures, to forget Noveske, Knight's Armanent, DD, PWS, etc.,. I was interested, to say the least, to hear him say that if you wanted an AR that would function no matter what- get a Norinco. He told us he has thrown guys off his range because their (insert expensive brand of choice here) repeatedly failed under combat conditions. Tolerances way too tight. Coming from him, it really gave me pause to think.


What was that saying again? "FULL RETARD" or some other variation...
 
umm well never figgered id have to say this but....
Hungry should maybe stick to talking about M14s, being shot on the range " i mean Combat conditions"
If the statement is true im a little disapointed .
:rey2
 
For what it's worth:
Just finished an intense SR course with Hungry. It was between 35-40 degrees on the two day course. Lots of mag failures, gun failures, brain fades by guys who had not stayed hydrated enough, etc. While it was an M14 course mainly, he asked some of us to shoot AR's. He mentioned, when talking about AR failures, to forget Noveske, Knight's Armanent, DD, PWS, etc.,. I was interested, to say the least, to hear him say that if you wanted an AR that would function no matter what- get a Norinco. He told us he has thrown guys off his range because their (insert expensive brand of choice here) repeatedly failed under combat conditions. Tolerances way too tight. Coming from him, it really gave me pause to think.

Okay, everyone is entitled to their own opinion but...

I can pretty much guarantee you that those dudes running said AR's are creating their own problems. AR's like anything else mechanical need proper maintenance and care. If you don't oil the moving parts, they will malfunction. If proper maintenance and care is done AR's of said brands will be reliable guns that can be run hard.

On my infantry course in dusty hot Wainright, fellas who forgot to lube their C7's before range day had nothing but malfunctions and were to busy doing stoppage drills to shoot. Those are service grade weapons that are having malfunctions because Pte. Bloggins was to busy smokin and jokin to care for his rifle. Probably a lot like the dudes mentioned above.

I am sure Norinco AR's can be 100% reliable. But to compare them to guns from top tier manufacturers and to say they are more reliable and better because of looser tolerances? C'mon there's a reason those guns cost a premium, even down South.

Don't take this personally, and I know what you are saying is a reiteration of what you heard. But do you see what I'm sayin;) lol
 
He mentioned, when talking about AR failures, to forget Noveske, Knight's Armanent, DD, PWS, etc.,. I was interested, to say the least, to hear him say that if you wanted an AR that would function no matter what- get a Norinco.

Laugh2
I'm not saying the Norinco is a bad AR (albeit, a cheap one), but I don't think it's necessarily any more reliable than any of the others listed. I think the statement that it tops all other ARs is a bit of a stretch, at best... A friend told me about a recent fun shoot where every single AR (including an ACR) suffered some sort of failure over the course of the event, with the exception of the Tavor and XCR-L. I don't think that automatically makes the Tavor or XCR-L more reliable, either.
 
I am happy with the lower it didn't have the "dremel" marks on it other than the trigger/sear/disconnect problem...

Ok so call me a fool if you want but I hate waiting for other people.. I knew what the issue is with this trigger set up. the disconnect was disconnecting too soon and the sear didn't have time to engage. so looking at the trigger i saw how the disconnect couldn't come forward enough to hold on to the hammer until the sear was able to engage. so i looked closer and there was too much material on the top of the trigger where the disconnect front rests. causing the disconnect to be released too soon when you begin to let off the trigger. I decided to fix the problem myself since the replacement parts are cheap if i f**ked up :). and as i mention earlier i hate waiting for other people. i slowly removed material from the high spot on the trigger (top of trigger sear?) just the part where the disconnect tip or front rests and tested removed a little more tested until it worked correctly. while i was in there the sear surfaces were very gritty so i whipped out the old "dremel" and put on me polishing wheel and smoothed up the 2 surfaces. reassemble function check 100% the trigger has smoothed considerably and though still over 8 lbs rough guess as i can hang the rifle by the trigger and it wont set off the trigger a bit of a jolt and it goes i need a trigger scale. when the trigger resets it fully seats the sear and has positive engagement. I never altered the sear faces other than the polish so nothing there is affected only the disconnect now sits forward enough to hold on a little bit longer allowing safe function of the rifle.

wondering about the springs and whether or not they are the source of the still somewhat heavy (though smoother) trigger which now functions flawlessly everything is working as it should still haven't checked the barrel nut or gas block. I should before i fire it just to be sure..
I don't want to and I didn't want to be "the guy" who had a bad review of a brand new rifle my first AR but this is poor QA. I would like them to replace the upper if these kind of "dremel" marks are not what should be expected. New is new and it is obvious now that i got a lemon. I know posting this they will likely want to take the easy way out and void my warranty.i hope they can understand that i didn't want to have to do any work on a brand new rifle that i have already waited long enough for. just to send it away again and possibly to do another transfer etc etc.. i don't see how this rifle made it through QA it had 3 casings and poker chip so it was supposedly test fired yet I could not bring the charging handle to the rear (and no i was not pulling down on it not that it should matter) this is my first AR but I have only been around guns a year learned first on an sks and a cz 858 and how these mechanisms work. i learn all there is to know before i buy a rifle. and take it apart to see what makes it tick and improvements made etc.

wow i wrote a novel ...

in closing,
i have no hate here this is not me trying to "flame" anyone i had this experience and i am letting my fellow cgners know what happened.

also i will post pics of the polish job it turned out very nice.

Mine also has the tooling marks and a couple of small bits missing paint. I've got to say I'm a bit surprised and disapointed by the quality of the finish, that said operationally it appears to be fine (as in you pull the trigger and it goes bang).

I'm totally new to AR's (and pretty new to firearms) so the tests you performed mean absolutely nothing to me, could I also have these issues or would it not have fired. I certainly dont have the charging handle problems.

I had a reply from NEA on another post and they said the machining marks are normal, shame as I was expecting better.

Before purchasing the NEA I handled the Core15 AR, the finish on that rifle was 100% so it is possible in this price point.
 
Okay, everyone is entitled to their own opinion but...

I can pretty much guarantee you that those dudes running said AR's are creating their own problems. AR's like anything else mechanical need proper maintenance and care. If you don't oil the moving parts, they will malfunction. If proper maintenance and care is done AR's of said brands will be reliable guns that can be run hard.

On my infantry course in dusty hot Wainright, fellas who forgot to lube their C7's before range day had nothing but malfunctions and were to busy doing stoppage drills to shoot. Those are service grade weapons that are having malfunctions because Pte. Bloggins was to busy smokin and jokin to care for his rifle. Probably a lot like the dudes mentioned above.

I am sure Norinco AR's can be 100% reliable. But to compare them to guns from top tier manufacturers and to say they are more reliable and better because of looser tolerances? C'mon there's a reason those guns cost a premium, even down South.

Don't take this personally, and I know what you are saying is a reiteration of what you heard. But do you see what I'm sayin;) lol

First off, my apologies to Dweenz if this is derailing his thread. Wasn't my intention. Secondly, I make no claim about being an expert in this area. I have built 5 AR's so far. They work fine but I can't say they have been stressed except for the one I shot at this course. No problems except for one metal mag which I dumped quickly and borrowed another Pmag and things were fine. No CF background.
Thirdly, I have the greatest respect for Hungry and if I misquoted him I apologise also. I tried to pick my words carefully. "For what it's worth" is how I started. I said I was surprised to hear Norinco come up when talking about reliability (compared to high end rifles).
At the same time was there not a version of the MG42 which had to be modified because it was too well made and jammed easily in dusty conditions? Also, I have read a lot about the 1911 and it's sloppy tolerances that were built in to deal with mud and dust in combat conditions. You wanted reliability over bullseye accuracy, no? So in that context I could see what he was saying. I think he may also have been referring to the fact that if you were just getting into CQB or SR that you didn't need to go high end. The Norinco would do just fine in most cases, assuming as you have pointed out, that it is well maintained.
I fully expected to hear from you guys- flame suit was at the ready. Thank you wprotz for your measured response. I didn't expect a lot of people were going to jump on the Norinco bandwagon because of this. Myself, I will stick with my ATRS, thanks. I did hope however that, considering the source, that it might be worth some consideration and discussion. No need to go "full retard" some of you. I double checked with some of they guys that were there and my words are as they remembered them as well. So flame on I guess.
 
Laugh2
I'm not saying the Norinco is a bad AR (albeit, a cheap one), but I don't think it's necessarily any more reliable than any of the others listed. I think the statement that it tops all other ARs is a bit of a stretch, at best... A friend told me about a recent fun shoot where every single AR (including an ACR) suffered some sort of failure over the course of the event, with the exception of the Tavor and XCR-L. I don't think that automatically makes the Tavor or XCR-L more reliable, either.


I was at the same clinic as Rugerman, and I also heard the comment about Norincos - but I think something got lost in the translation. Hungry's comment was purely anecdotal....My take was just what you said above - that any AR can be reliable, or not. I was shooting my LMT at the clinic, and I had a couple issues too, but they were mag related both times. (Or operator error! :redface:)

In the dust, excessive heat, and Hungry stomping on your mags, the odd issue can creep into any platform.
 
Ok yes I agree it sucks I got a lemon ... but I think i made lemonade out of it. for $1000 AR it is mostly awesome. the cosmetic #### is a shame but I was always more concerned with the functional mostly. now that I have got it functioning perfectly I can't wait to try it out though I still think I should check out the barrel nut and gas block first. if this was a monday morning build which it does appear to be they definitely rushed it out without a proper inspection. I have pictures now for the polished bits and where i removed material to allow safe function of the disconnect.

this is the spot i removed some material in order to allow the disconnect to hold on to the hammer a bit longer allowing the trigger sear to engage the hammer notch.

487753_10151932132655245_1945366383_n.jpg

487392_10151932132585245_1925038352_n.jpg


this is the trigger sear face i polished note the mark indicating where the hammer notch hits lots of meat on that connection about 1/8 inch of travel i would say. i polished it then test fired with snap cap a couple dozen times and it is smooth now just the tiniest bit of drag as it comes out of the marked area indicated in the picture almost like a speed bump but it slides freely and if i pull the trigger a bit and ease off it goes right back to where it started. the trigger pull is now about 3/16 - 1/4 inch just a guess as i have no calipers or means to measure. the sear is in good positive engagement as i can see from watching it as i pull the trigger the hammer goes back just a bit before breaking clean.
391553_10151932132740245_1792205618_n.jpg

the shininess
292450_10151932132845245_1630668111_n.jpg

the hammer notch not the best picture but it is shiny and smooth now.
552358_10151932132900245_235669683_n.jpg


I tweaked the hammer springs to reduce the trigger pull a bit more
534787_10151932133140245_1430926578_n.jpg


bolt carrier was all good
425136_10151932133240245_384120827_n.jpg


i was considering building my own AR but was unsure since i have not owned one before i wouldn't hesitate now. to build one for $1000 would be impossible though i think. anyways range report to come soon as i get an armorers wrench and my reg cert.
 
Mine also has the tooling marks and a couple of small bits missing paint. I've got to say I'm a bit surprised and disapointed by the quality of the finish, that said operationally it appears to be fine (as in you pull the trigger and it goes bang).

I'm totally new to AR's (and pretty new to firearms) so the tests you performed mean absolutely nothing to me, could I also have these issues or would it not have fired. I certainly dont have the charging handle problems.

I had a reply from NEA on another post and they said the machining marks are normal, shame as I was expecting better.

Before purchasing the NEA I handled the Core15 AR, the finish on that rifle was 100% so it is possible in this price point.

The test is simple charge the firearm put the firearm on safe pull the trigger the hammer should not fall. put the firearm on semi pull the trigger the hammer should fall. hold the trigger to the rear charge the firearm and release the trigger the hammer should not fall and you should feel a bit of a click as the sear engages the hammer this is known as resetting the trigger. then pull the trigger the hammer should fall. if your rifle can pass this test it should function... of course firing it is another test.
 
Looking at that trigger you clearly got one of the POS ones. I just tossed my trigger/hammer that came with mine (from the very first run). That looks like the 12lb+ trigger spring, and, that wear mark on the face of the trigger sear is from the hammer wearing through. It's only gonna get worse, believe me. I changed my parts out for those in the DPMS lower parts kit, and the difference was night and day. Super smooth, predictable pull, and around 7lbs now. I think it's actually gone down a touch since I worked in the engagement surfaces.

Of course, instead of complaining to the internet, why not create a ticket with NEA customer support, and see what they have to say about it? Complaining to the internet isn't going to help NEA address quality concerns.
 
The test is simple charge the firearm put the firearm on safe pull the trigger the hammer should not fall. put the firearm on semi pull the trigger the hammer should fall. hold the trigger to the rear charge the firearm and release the trigger the hammer should not fall and you should feel a bit of a click as the sear engages the hammer this is known as resetting the trigger. then pull the trigger the hammer should fall. if your rifle can pass this test it should function... of course firing it is another test.

Just performed the tests and all worked as expected, thanks for the instructions.

I also noticed that my top rail has the identical cosmetic issue to yours with the missing paint!! Also the tooling marks are pretty much the same.

I've already fired mine (approx 200 rounds) and its worked flawlessly, so if you can ignore the cosmetic flaws I think still a good rifle for $1k.
 
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