I can shoot trap just fine with a 20, and I'm perfectly happy having fun and trying new things. There's not even a place to seriously compete around here. Took it out tonight to teach the girlfriend and she did pretty well as well. Maybe he's a smaller guy? I've seen guys break clays all day with a 28gauge. Just because "everybody uses one in the big leagues" doesn't mean everyone else that enters the sport has to. Everyone has different reasons for what they like..excuse me for giving an answer that wasn't the typical "browning 12 gauge". Maybe my post will help him discover something he hasn't thought of or maybe I'll just help him find out what he likes. Either way I'll have helped more than another "browning break action" re-post.
New to Trap
- Thread starter .:RoKsTaR:.
- Start date
You're having fun shooting, that's great. You're introducing new people to shooting, that's fantastic. Keep it up.
But trapshooting is a 12 gauge sport. Anything else is a novelty. Trap guns aren't even made in gauges other than 12. Trapshooting shotshells only come in 12. There's no sub gauge catagories in trap like there is in skeet shooting. If you consistantly hit 23/25 with a 20, aren't you thinking maybe you could hit 24/25 or 25/25 with a 12?
Forget it, I'm gonna trapshoot with http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_768152_-1_757992_757992_image
I'm not making fun, I'm just making light of the tone that's starting to set
I'm not making fun, I'm just making light of the tone that's starting to set
Forget it, I'm gonna trapshoot with http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_768152_-1_757992_757992_image
I'm not making fun, I'm just making light of the tone that's starting to set
Good work! You'll have to let us know what you ultimately decide on. My father's got an Older Citori (in 12Ga) that is pretty nice to shoot. I can imagine you'd be happy with something like that, just find what you have the most fun with! I use my M2 field pretty frequently. That way I can try for triples when just messing around (third one thrown on the first shot). For a lighter 12 ga I can easily shoot over 200 superspeed shells before it even begins to bother me. Plus - it gets me primed for upland!
R&R Rancher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Manitoba's Interlake
Lots of thread creep going on. The OP originally wanted a shotgun for shooting ATA style trap. Not backyard clays and no hunting. He wants to be able to shoot trap doubles. A lot of the advice here is well meaning but misleading. Here's a recap of what to look for in a trap shotgun
1) A high comb, preferably a Monte Carlo stock. This has the effect of raising your point of impact to above the line of sight. This allows you to see the bird above the barrel through the entire swing/follow through. A field gun that shoots at the point of sight forces you to "cover" the bird or you will shoot under it.
2) Weight. A target gun should be heavy, but well balanced. Light guns are fine for field shooting but you will get beat up on the trap range. Weight helps make recoil more manageable. Weight in the barrels is also helpful. Your swing may start out a little slower, but the inertia built up helps make your follow through more automatic
3) Reliability. There is a reason certain trap guns are popular. They must be able to shoot as much in a weekend as some hunting guns do in a year. And keep that volume of shooting up for decades. Yes, they occasionally break down, but it is rare and parts and repairs are relatively easy to find. That's why you will hear a lot of recommendations for the "B guns" (Browning and Beretta") They have great track records.
The action type is up to individual preference. Gas autoloaders are softer shooting but require more maintenance. Hinge guns require less maintenance, but felt recoil can be more pronounced than an autoloader.
Anyone wanting to shoot STRICTLY trap and follows these suggestions should get a gun that will start them nicely in the game.
1) A high comb, preferably a Monte Carlo stock. This has the effect of raising your point of impact to above the line of sight. This allows you to see the bird above the barrel through the entire swing/follow through. A field gun that shoots at the point of sight forces you to "cover" the bird or you will shoot under it.
2) Weight. A target gun should be heavy, but well balanced. Light guns are fine for field shooting but you will get beat up on the trap range. Weight helps make recoil more manageable. Weight in the barrels is also helpful. Your swing may start out a little slower, but the inertia built up helps make your follow through more automatic
3) Reliability. There is a reason certain trap guns are popular. They must be able to shoot as much in a weekend as some hunting guns do in a year. And keep that volume of shooting up for decades. Yes, they occasionally break down, but it is rare and parts and repairs are relatively easy to find. That's why you will hear a lot of recommendations for the "B guns" (Browning and Beretta") They have great track records.
The action type is up to individual preference. Gas autoloaders are softer shooting but require more maintenance. Hinge guns require less maintenance, but felt recoil can be more pronounced than an autoloader.
Anyone wanting to shoot STRICTLY trap and follows these suggestions should get a gun that will start them nicely in the game.
Having recently engaged in my first registered ATA/PITA combo event, I put 600+ rounds through my recently acquired old 1929 barrel 1979 receiver Model 12 pump; 2.75" rounds with full choke, and I have to agree - if one wants to go hard into trap, one NEEDS a trap gun. I love the feel, the action, the weight behind my model 12 - but the reliability of the two in one gun was NOT there, especially in double shoot. Also, with it being a game gun and not a skeet gun, the aiming is a bit different. The old boys that were there, shall we say, after explaining to me what and why I was having such a hard time, had me try (after the shoot) a Remington 870 (If memory serves) semi auto and I did NOT like it. Then they handed me a Citori. That was elegance in shooting, I have to admit; the particular gun was an >$8,000 gun, and wholy crap did it show, in feel, in accuracy (keep in mind, I had never done any kind of heavy shooting like this before, not 600 rounds in two days out of a moderately heavy gun. I was sore and tired at this point.) I am pretty sure if I had that gun rather than the model 12, my score would of been significantly higher than 327/600. Interestingly enough I did better overall with the handicap than any other shoot.
If you liked the Citori, you would love a real high end trap gun. If you get a chance to try a Ljutic, Kreighoff, or Perazzi trap gun, you will be hooked. I noticed quite a few Perazzi's at the Olympics.
I had the opportunity to shoot a Ljutic trap gun and what an incredible gun! The balance,swing, weight all perfect.
The bottom line, is that in order for you to shoot the gun well, it needs to fit you. If the Citori fits you better than a Perazzi, then you will likely shoot the Citori better. Buy a decent quality gun that fits you, and take it from there.
Beretta687EELL
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
Clay shooting can become very addictive. I was in the US a week and a half ago and shot 1400 program targets (plus a few more practice targets) in 5 days. If you are going to shoot that kind of volume, you need serious equipment that will stand up to that punishment ... but the gun must fit or your face and shoulder won't take it.
As mentioned before, cheap guns are cheap for a reason and won't stand up for long, unless you only want to shoot 50 shells every couple of weeks. A "good" used Beretta or Browning O/U TRAP gun would be a good investment for your first TRAP gun. A "good" used TRAP gun will have lots of use left in it and if you buy it at the right price, you will sell it for close to what you paid for it, when you buy your next TRAP gun. A worn gun can quickly cost you $400 to $800 in repairs. Did I mention, if you are going to shoot TRAP, you need to buy a TRAP gun (LOL). See R&R Rancher's post on page 5.
12 gauge is the only gauge if you are serious about trap, for many reasons.
Gun fit is the key to consistent good scores and comfortable shooting. Initially, it should feel good and be well balanced in your hands. When you put it to your shoulder and put your face on the comb, the beads should line up and your eyes should be level and the barrel should be 90 degrees to your eyes (not canted). They make adjustable combs and recoil pads for a reason, so most guns can be made to fit you. Don't get too carried away initially, but you will eventually buy something else once YOU know what you want. Talk lots and try every gun you can lay your hands on.
As mentioned before, cheap guns are cheap for a reason and won't stand up for long, unless you only want to shoot 50 shells every couple of weeks. A "good" used Beretta or Browning O/U TRAP gun would be a good investment for your first TRAP gun. A "good" used TRAP gun will have lots of use left in it and if you buy it at the right price, you will sell it for close to what you paid for it, when you buy your next TRAP gun. A worn gun can quickly cost you $400 to $800 in repairs. Did I mention, if you are going to shoot TRAP, you need to buy a TRAP gun (LOL). See R&R Rancher's post on page 5.
12 gauge is the only gauge if you are serious about trap, for many reasons.
Gun fit is the key to consistent good scores and comfortable shooting. Initially, it should feel good and be well balanced in your hands. When you put it to your shoulder and put your face on the comb, the beads should line up and your eyes should be level and the barrel should be 90 degrees to your eyes (not canted). They make adjustable combs and recoil pads for a reason, so most guns can be made to fit you. Don't get too carried away initially, but you will eventually buy something else once YOU know what you want. Talk lots and try every gun you can lay your hands on.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
Will do, I'm pretty patient so it'll take me a while to find something
I have a nice Citori Trap model for sale for a good price if you wish to PM me.
It was set up for douboes a while back - the mod barrel was taken out to IC for the first doubles bird.
Cat
I will again echo the idea to buy a gun that fits. I was shooting a Zoli Z Sport and doing alright, I picked up my Beretta 682 Gold and the fit was night and day, and my scores went up.
Semis are fun, however I'm surprised no one has mentioned one little nagging point: semis can easily set off the machine when loading, if using the choice activated puller. The gf shoots a 20ga A390, and every time she hits the bolt catch, it throws a bird.
The only reason to choose 12ga over 20ga is selection. 12ga is more readily available and often cheaper. You can get 1 oz in a 20 ga has the same number of pellets as 1 oz in a 12ga. And doing 500+rds in a day, you really appreciate 1 oz vs 1 1/8 oz. Guns too, its easier to find a nice 12ga than a 20. However my next next gun will be a 28ga, 3/4 oz, no kick, beautiful. However I needed to save up $8900 for the one I want.
I'm going to go against the grain right now though: yes a gun that fits is important, but shooting it its more important. Buy a cheap gun that feels ok to you, then buy ammo and clays. Buy ammo in bulk (not just one case at a time) and shoot it. If you take the time at the range to shoot 10k rounds, I bet you'll meet enough people that will let you try various guns, and probably sell you one at a good price. Gunnutz its great, but the EE is not the place to look for a high end trap/skeet/sporting clays gun.
Semis are fun, however I'm surprised no one has mentioned one little nagging point: semis can easily set off the machine when loading, if using the choice activated puller. The gf shoots a 20ga A390, and every time she hits the bolt catch, it throws a bird.
The only reason to choose 12ga over 20ga is selection. 12ga is more readily available and often cheaper. You can get 1 oz in a 20 ga has the same number of pellets as 1 oz in a 12ga. And doing 500+rds in a day, you really appreciate 1 oz vs 1 1/8 oz. Guns too, its easier to find a nice 12ga than a 20. However my next next gun will be a 28ga, 3/4 oz, no kick, beautiful. However I needed to save up $8900 for the one I want.
I'm going to go against the grain right now though: yes a gun that fits is important, but shooting it its more important. Buy a cheap gun that feels ok to you, then buy ammo and clays. Buy ammo in bulk (not just one case at a time) and shoot it. If you take the time at the range to shoot 10k rounds, I bet you'll meet enough people that will let you try various guns, and probably sell you one at a good price. Gunnutz its great, but the EE is not the place to look for a high end trap/skeet/sporting clays gun.
I've seen it mentioned many times in this thread to "get a gun that fits". Is there a "gun fitting for dummies" out there somewhere? How do I determine if a gun fits me or not, what should I be looking for?
I was out at my in-laws farm this summer and my Father in Law set up the clay thrower and we spent a pleasant afternoon breaking clays, but at the end of it I had a massive bruise on my shoulder, even though I borrowed his shooting jacket with padding on it. I was shooting an Ithica Model 37 borrowed from my Dad. I'd like to shoot more clays, but I'd also like to do it without the bruising. I'm guessing the elusive "properly fitting" gun would help with that?
I apoligize for the newbie question, but I couldn't find anything after a search.
I was out at my in-laws farm this summer and my Father in Law set up the clay thrower and we spent a pleasant afternoon breaking clays, but at the end of it I had a massive bruise on my shoulder, even though I borrowed his shooting jacket with padding on it. I was shooting an Ithica Model 37 borrowed from my Dad. I'd like to shoot more clays, but I'd also like to do it without the bruising. I'm guessing the elusive "properly fitting" gun would help with that?
I apoligize for the newbie question, but I couldn't find anything after a search.
R&R Rancher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Manitoba's Interlake
Google "Rollin Oswald". He's written a book on stock fitting.
A few questions for you to help determine how you got your bruise. How heavy is the gun? I suspect it's on the light side. Light guns kick more.
Does it have a recoil pad or a butt plate? That one should be obvious as to the effect it has on your shoulder.
Try mounting the gun. Was the butt making even contact on your entire shoulder or was the bottom corner, called the toe, making sole contact? If a small part of the butt contacts your shoulder it will concentrate the recoil force in a very small area. The butt plate or better yet the recoil pad must make even contact with your shoulder to distribute the recoil.
What shells were you shooting? Ounce and an eight at 1200 fps, the so called 3 dram load? Overkill for clay targets unless you are shooting them past 45 yards or so. Look for the 1 ounce target loads. They recoil much less. Better yet is to reload 7/8 ounce shells, but not everyone is set up to do that.
HTH
A few questions for you to help determine how you got your bruise. How heavy is the gun? I suspect it's on the light side. Light guns kick more.
Does it have a recoil pad or a butt plate? That one should be obvious as to the effect it has on your shoulder.
Try mounting the gun. Was the butt making even contact on your entire shoulder or was the bottom corner, called the toe, making sole contact? If a small part of the butt contacts your shoulder it will concentrate the recoil force in a very small area. The butt plate or better yet the recoil pad must make even contact with your shoulder to distribute the recoil.
What shells were you shooting? Ounce and an eight at 1200 fps, the so called 3 dram load? Overkill for clay targets unless you are shooting them past 45 yards or so. Look for the 1 ounce target loads. They recoil much less. Better yet is to reload 7/8 ounce shells, but not everyone is set up to do that.
HTH
