New Norinco M305
- Thread starter Odd Shot
- Start date
Hey everyone.
I love how this site is a wealth of info on the M14/M1A/M305, unfortunately, so much so that it's easy to get lost in all of it, not to mention the time it takes to read through all of it (just spent the last couple hours reading threads).
So I just have a few quick questions about my brand new M305 that I just picked up from a site dealer.
Would be grateful for any insights:
1. is it normal for the finish on these guns to be very rough? There are a LOT of machining marks everywhere and generally poor fit and finish
2. is it common for the the barrel and the gas cylinder/cylinder plug (and the gas cylinder lock) to NOT be in line with the vertical center line (off by 5 to 10 degrees by eye)? Is this rifle safe to fire with this much mis-alignment?
3. the front blade sight is enormously tall, and slightly bent over to the side. it's mount on the flash suppressor is also not in line with the vertical center line
4. the magazine fits very tightly in the magazine well and takes some effort to remove once engaged. Again, is this normal? It is so tight in fact, that the magazine cannot be removed if the bolt is in battery
5. there is some slop in the bolt while it is in battery (it rattles slightly...we're talking less than a millimetre of movement). Is this normal or does this represent a defect/safety hazard?
Just wondering if this is normal and to be expected of a $450 Chinese rifle, or if I have a lemon that I have to send back to the seller.
Thanks for any and all input.
BTW I am not new to shooting or to military guns. I have handled and operated an M16 (C7), FN FAL, SAFN M-49, an M1 Garand, and a Browning BAR (long track) hunting rifle (silky smooth action on that Browning).
The fit and finish on this Norinco is by far the worst I have ever seen or handled.
Gotta say, I'm regretting this purchase right now.
I have one, no regrets at all she shoots flawlessly and accurately to 500m. Rough, yes. Its at battle rifle, not a beauty contest. The mag maybe tight as some of the lugs are welded too far down. Its not the rifle. Just drumel a bit off the bottom of the lug.
Then in the new year take Hungry's course, and join us at the M14 shoot being organized. Youll be able to compare with others.
Its always a bummer to hear about peoples horror stories regarding these rifles, It almost turned me off purchasing mine. Then I ordered one this year, did a couple upgrades and have shot a couple hundred rounds through it no problem. The fit and finish seems to be excellent
Buzzballer
CGN Regular
- Location
- Southern Ontario
What date was this rifle made?? It should be the first 4 numbers on the serial on the left side of the receiver.
I have seen many Norinco M14's, the earliest date I bought was a 2009 & a 2012. The only issue I have had was a faulty hand guard and an over indexed barrel (easy fix thanks to Hungry).as for the finish, its parkerized, grey, fugly. Besides, if you compare that rifle to the early Nor M14s that came in they are getting better.
It's not the colour or the minor cosmetic issues that bother me as I expected these.
The overall roughness of the machining does bother me (particularly the left bolt lug), but my most significant concern is the mis-alginment of the barrel, gas cylinder and front sight from the centre line of the receiver.
If you don't mind me asking, what is involved in correcting the indexing of the barrel? Do you have a link you can direct me to?
Indexing is not hard ,just remove setscrew and put in a barrel vice and turn with reciever wrench.
Now that sounds easy but can be a pain.
I think there is a build done by skullboy in the stickys, Ironhourse build.
If you are in the east hungry is putting a clinic on soon ,good place to get it done.
Now that sounds easy but can be a pain.
I think there is a build done by skullboy in the stickys, Ironhourse build.
If you are in the east hungry is putting a clinic on soon ,good place to get it done.
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
you can seriously srew up the head spacing with buba barrel indexing
``Indexing is not hard ,just remove setscrew and put in a barrel vice and turn with reciever wrench.
Now that sounds easy but can be a pain.
I think there is a build done by skullboy in the stickys, Ironhourse build.
If you are in the east hungry is putting a clinic on soon ,good place to get it done. ``
For an under-indexed barrel this will work.
For an over-indexed barrel you should remove it and roll back the shoulder either on a lathe or by tapping it back... then re-install
Now that sounds easy but can be a pain.
I think there is a build done by skullboy in the stickys, Ironhourse build.
If you are in the east hungry is putting a clinic on soon ,good place to get it done. ``
For an under-indexed barrel this will work.
For an over-indexed barrel you should remove it and roll back the shoulder either on a lathe or by tapping it back... then re-install
I'm in the GTA. Do you have a link to Hungry's clinic?
There is one being held in Sudbury this January
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...o-wants-Hungry-to-do-an-M14-Course-in-Sudbury
Hungry lives near Georgian bay and there will be clinics closer to you this summer .
Link to his website http://w w w.m14hungry.com/
And your barrel is under indexed so it will have to be tightened onto the receiver a bit....these rifles have generous headspacing as they are designed to keep working when dirty (battle rifle)... when you index the barrel it will only move the barrel a little and it will still be fine to shoot .
To index the barrel two flat pieces of metal are attached to the front sight and rear of the receiver
(Pics from my 1st clinic in Barrie)
The receiver is turned onto the barrel until the 2 pieces of flat metal are in correct alignment ... the barrel is held in place by a barrel vice
The pic shows how it is set up and on my rifle it was under indexed as well... I had to pull down on the wrench HARD
This pic is from the Petawawa clinic last summer .... you can see the flat metal peices attached to Hungrys rifle ....one in front of the wrench and the rear one is behind Hungrys arm in the pic. You rotate the receiver until these 2 pieces are in perfect alignment.
Last edited:
just curious (I did a search and didn't find anything):
has anyone encountered binding of the bolt and/or op rod towards the rear of the action (when the charging handle reaches the windage dial?)?
Min does. just wanted to know if this was normal
Thanks for any advice
has anyone encountered binding of the bolt and/or op rod towards the rear of the action (when the charging handle reaches the windage dial?)?
Min does. just wanted to know if this was normal
Thanks for any advice
autocrash
CGN Regular
Binding of the op-rod is likely due to the indexing problem. The op-rod only fits in the track properly if the op rod guide is centered, otherwise the angle will cause the track to torque the op-rod...
(it may cause the op-rod to pop out of the track as well while firing... )
Exchange it, ASAP.
Or have the dealer pay to index.
HTH
Matt
Buzzballer
CGN Regular
- Location
- Southern Ontario
I experienced the same problem and re indexing the barrel fixed it.
that barrel needs to be tightened more.the setscrew may be easy to remove or a biotch.
the 1st one i did the setscrew would not budge.i drill pressed the center using a smaller diameter drill bit than the setscrew.the drill bit was a higher quality bit--cobalt or titanium.
i went slowly--you have to get center of the screw or damage to receiver sidewall may occur--use some cutting oil with the drill bit.
once i got down into the screw i tapped in an "easyout" and the screw came out easy.
the 2nd one i did the screw came out pretty easy.you just need to find the correct tip screwdriver to fit the slot.
i use instead of the sheet metal "aiming devices" an analog dial pitch and slope locator as well as a magnetic digital angle guage(for saw blade bevel angle)
a large rubber malllet is a good idea to break free the barrel or to smack it a few degrees into index--hitting the action wrench.
the 1st one i did the setscrew would not budge.i drill pressed the center using a smaller diameter drill bit than the setscrew.the drill bit was a higher quality bit--cobalt or titanium.
i went slowly--you have to get center of the screw or damage to receiver sidewall may occur--use some cutting oil with the drill bit.
once i got down into the screw i tapped in an "easyout" and the screw came out easy.
the 2nd one i did the screw came out pretty easy.you just need to find the correct tip screwdriver to fit the slot.
i use instead of the sheet metal "aiming devices" an analog dial pitch and slope locator as well as a magnetic digital angle guage(for saw blade bevel angle)
a large rubber malllet is a good idea to break free the barrel or to smack it a few degrees into index--hitting the action wrench.
