Got my first Ross today!!!

Tinman204

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
19   0   0
Location
Rural Manitoba
Made my first trip to the Brandon gun and collectables show today when I stumbled across this sporterized Ross M1910 for sale. I bought it and was walking around the show looking at other things and it was like I was carrying a hand granade. I had like 5 or 6 people come up to me and warn me about the dangers of shooting Ross cause " they blow apart!!!!". So that being said, were people telling me tall tales or is there real danger from shooting it? The bore is very shiney, rifling is ok and it seems to be in good shape. I've read the sticky on Ross bolts and have done some research, this one seems to be assembled right and locks a full 1/4 turn to the left when the bolt is fully locked forward. It also passes the "rule of thumb" test. That being stated and I'd rather be safe then sorry anything else I should check before I do a test fire?

Anyhow here's a few pics of my new Ross, can't wait to take her apart and give her some love!! As always any info on this piece would be much appreciated!

6B9557DB-7829-4E83-A2FA-0AE51CB3F1E9-310-000000AD70C506E8.jpg


64EFAF6C-A45A-4B3D-9B45-22ECDC43D57A-310-000000AD7E3E322E.jpg


7DFFC2B2-175C-4B7C-9A8F-46DFC0DA88EE-310-000000AD998BD787.jpg


0A6FDD4A-28A9-41DC-948C-350F8FC71CB2-310-000000ADAC1193C7.jpg


D2A34418-2776-43D9-A88B-105C154B4FA9-310-000000ADB2C22725.jpg
 
Made my first trip to the Brandon gun and collectables show today when I stumbled across this sporterized Ross M1910 for sale. I bought it and was walking around the show looking at other things and it was like I was carrying a hand granade. I had like 5 or 6 people come up to me and warn me about the dangers of shooting Ross cause " they blow apart!!!!". So that being said, were people telling me tall tales or is there real danger from shooting it? The bore is very shiney, rifling is ok and it seems to be in good shape. I've read the sticky on Ross bolts and have done some research, this one seems to be assembled right and locks a full 1/4 turn to the left when the bolt is fully locked forward. It also passes the "rule of thumb" test. That being stated and I'd rather be safe then sorry anything else I should check before I do a test fire?

Anyhow here's a few pics of my new Ross, can't wait to take her apart and give her some love!! As always any info on this piece would be much appreciated!

6B9557DB-7829-4E83-A2FA-0AE51CB3F1E9-310-000000AD70C506E8.jpg


64EFAF6C-A45A-4B3D-9B45-22ECDC43D57A-310-000000AD7E3E322E.jpg


7DFFC2B2-175C-4B7C-9A8F-46DFC0DA88EE-310-000000AD998BD787.jpg


0A6FDD4A-28A9-41DC-948C-350F8FC71CB2-310-000000ADAC1193C7.jpg


D2A34418-2776-43D9-A88B-105C154B4FA9-310-000000ADB2C22725.jpg
Congrat and welcome to the club! You got a nice Ross because barrel wasn't shortened so could be restored to military configuration if you are patient finding the parts. The Ross M10 are perfectly safe to shoot if the bolt is assembled correctly. Some M10 bolt are pinned so cant be assembled wrong. Look at the vid below, me shooting a sporterized Ross, did it blow up? No ofc, kept my face intact. Also read the sticky about Ross M1910 bolt disassembly before taking your apart,dont hesitate if you have questions, fellows CGN will help you. Cheers,
Joce

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_vyRm4fidc&feature=plcp

Bolt disassembly http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?806771-Ross-M1910-bolt-disassembly
 
I was given one at the age of 14 in 1967 and have shot it plenty since. Killed my first several deer with it.

The first shot I took with it though, I tied it to a rubber tire and pulled the trigger with a string.

I'd heard the rumour too.
 
That a nice Ross you have there, its a shame so many were sporterised.

How was the gun show? I wanted to go but its a 2 hour drive and I rather not waiste my time.
Correct me if I'm wrong but its still on tomorrow 10-5 right?
 
I was given one at the age of 14 in 1967 and have shot it plenty since. Killed my first several deer with it.

The first shot I took with it though, I tied it to a rubber tire and pulled the trigger with a string.

I'd heard the rumour too.
The problem is because of the rotating bolt head. If the bolt is disassembled and incorrectly assembled, when the bolt is fully pushed foward, the head wont rotate in locked position and the rifle can fire even with an unlocked bolt. The bolt will be throw violently rearward and will hit the shooter's face. The important thing is that, with a correctly assembled bolt, the Ross is 100% safe, and the when properly assembled, the bolt cannot get out of adjustement.
Joce
 
Thanks for all the info Joce! I kinda figured that it was and urban myth! I've seen numerous threads with Rosses that are obviously shot and are safe to do so. If they randomly blew up nobody would shoot them that's for sure!

Caleb314, as for the show I had a good time! I guess wether it's worth the drive is up to you and it depends what your looking for, I was mostly looking for 303 brass, and really just a good road trip with my wife and brother. The prices I found were a bit on the high side for some things but there was a lot of deals to be had for sure! I picked up a nice SKS from Jo Brook for $159 and also found some good deals on ammo.
 
Tinman- nice find.

If you use search, and set it for 36 months, type Ross and Ross bolt, you'll see many posts by Smellie and his partner, with the oft repeated Ross bolt safety info. It's there dozens of times.

Could you pull the bolt back till it just comes back from the receiver ring, and take a pic of it from the top? That will tell us a lot about whether it's assembled safely.

In untrained hands, yes, they can be dangerous. But if assembled properly, they are truly one of the strongest rifles ever.
 
Good talkin with you today at the show and at Jo Brooks. Didn't realise that you were a CGN'r too. Small world eh! Enjoy that Ross. I've had a couple and had a good time with them. And ya I grew up with the exploding Ross myth and remote fired my first one. Probably didn't have to but I felt better for it. Anyway enjoy both your purchases.
 
Is there a vertical PIN through the Bolt Sleeve, top to bottom, about halfway back on the Bolt Sleeve, on the left side?

If there is a steel PIN there, it means that you have a "pinned bolt". They are totally safe but they also can be a b*tch to assemble.

With the E-for-Enlarged chamber, you can expect some case expansion at the base of the casings. Best partial solution to the problem is Ed's Famous O-Rings (but you can use pony-tail ties from the Dollar Store: buck a hundred), which you follow up with neck-sizing your brass. Your cases will last halfway to forever, but you will have to segregate them for use with THAT rifle and no other. Believe me, it's worth it. Try the LEE Collet Die for max case life.

Don't be too quick to try to swap that stock over (IF you can find a new one). Check on the UNDERSIDE of the Wrist of the Stock (the part your hand grabs onto) for a marking in the WOOD. I have 2 rifles very like this one, both marked (we believe, anyway) to Priddy's Hard Ammunitioning Base, 1 each for Battery 1 and 2. There could be others.

Your rifle may be a Shop modification to Sporter status, likely dating to the interwar period, possibly following the Second War.

On the other hand, it could also be ORIGINAL military configuration as a "Stripped Ross". These were done at the advanced Battalion Armourers' shops, not far behind the Front, DURING the Great War. They were very popular with Snipers. "The Ross Rifle was UNPOPULAR because of its length and weight; you couldn't get into a dugout with your rifle slung." (Captain George Dibblee, DCM, A Coy, 5th Batt, Canadian Mounted Rifles, CEF 1914 - 1919) I asked Captain Dibblee further as regards Rosses: "We had NO trouble with the Ross Rifle, but we kept our rifles CLEAN, unlike some outfits who never cleaned their equipment." There you have it, from a decorated Officer who was THERE and who CARRIED one.

That 30.5-inch barrel, by the way, gives you a little over 100 feet-per-second BETTER performance with given ammunition. The old tales were true: a Ross DOES "hit harder" because it has about 200 ft/lbs more kinetic energy with any given load. They also had very special rifling which responds well to boat-tailed bullets, given that you have a good, tight bore. In this they are unlike Enfield-rifled arms which are pretty much wedded to the flat-base bullet. Rifling is 1 turn in 10 inches, left-hand twist, 4 grooves only with narrow lands: very distinctive, nothing else uses it.

The Ross which I shoot most is one from the old HMS CANADA. It really likes the Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter seated to the OAL of a Ball round and pushed by a mere 35 to 36 grains of 4895. Low recoil, high accuracy and, after 15 firings, the brass still does not require trimming.

With a nice shiny bore, friend, you well could be good to go with CAST bullets. They are cheap like borshchdt and you can run them at about 1850 with 13 (thirteen) grains of Red Dot shotgun powder, get 538 loads for a pound of powder. EVEN if you put gas-checks on them, you are still looking at a DIME a shot..... and barrel wear will be just about negligible.

I would say that you really lucked-out on that rifle.

Congratulations..... and welcome to the Wonderful World of Ross Rifles!
 
Don't worry about the naysayers and their exploding Ross Rifles!
A little bit of research and some common sense will go a long way. I've been shooting my Mk II* for many years now and love it.

And if enough people are scared of them, maybe those of us who have progressed will be able to pick them up for cheap (well at least cheaper) LOL.

Enjoy you new toy.
 
I put three rounds through the Ross today. I must say it's quite different then my Enfield but I like it! They fire formed perfectly with no signs of a generous barrel.

Thank you all for sharing info and helping me make sure my Ross was safe!
 
You aren't far off a restoration there - nose caps are officially non-existant, but a fore-wood splice would be easy, then you just have to auction off a kidney and your first born for the little metal collar and you're set :D
 
It may NOT be a Bubba!

See my post above regarding field modifications to "Stripped" standards.

But it certainly is an interesting critter.
 
I guess no-one bought the full wood/length barrel 1910 with an side weaver mount d+t'd on it with a old weaver mount and stock sanded all to crap for $2500 or the cut down guard version 1910 for $1400. When he said 25 I almost said bucks? back to him, but just smiled politely and walked away :rolleyes:. Last year my friend bought a guard factory mod'd shorty at the show for $250.


I'm not sure what this guns worth but I only payed $150 for it. I figured it was a bubba'd POS for that price but I thought every collector has to start somewhere. It looked to be complete and in nice shape but the price to me didn't reflect the condition. I'd say the only real thing wrong with it is the front sight ring is slightly bent to the left.

Smellie, unfortunately the stock has been sanded and refinished so if there was a mark on the wrist it's gone. There's an "X" on the stock where it's cut out so the bolt can clear when it's pulled back. The stock has "930" and what I believe reads "ES" next to it. The receiver and barrel have a crown with crossed flags that have "dps" in between the flags. After I removed the wood I knowticed theres a number 2 penciled on the inside of the stock and the barrel guard. That's about it. I was hoping if I walked around the show long enough carrying my Ross that I may run into you and you could let my wife know that I didn't just buy a rifle that's really a pipe bomb! Oh well I'm sure we'll cross paths one day.
 
Back
Top Bottom