Is this normal? S&W 629 4.2"

Sorry my post was somewhat confusing. I meant that a transaction was made to purchase these from S&W in the US. Selling something as new using used parts is contrary to US trading laws. It was just a counter point to the "sold to 3rd world country" post. I wasn't meaning that they were sold to the US public. (to my knowledge)
 
He has no doubt that S&W built these 4.2" 629 "Canadian Versions" using salvaged parts from returned 629! Notice he said parts, plural, not just cylinders (Hint, if you don't want more aggravation, don't check the trigger group). He tries to tell me it is not the distributer or the dealers fault because the Manufacturer bullies the distributer and the distributer bullies the dealers ......:confused: I respectfully disagreed.

So there you go! As far as I am concerned the mystery is now solved.

With all due respect to your gunsmith friend I think he is fill of it. S&W has no reason to salvage parts. The labour costs alone don't justify doing what your friend says. Easier to just throw the old out of spec parts in the garbage. If you have ever been around a large manufacturering plant you would get some idea of what I am saying. Dull cutters and the need for high production to meet demand seems more plausable. I don't understand the Canadian warranty center denying the OP's gun is out of spec and onlyh offering to replace at the OP's expense. American gun owners would not put up with that kind of response for a minute and neither should he. I would be sending off the pictures to S&W requesting a better explanation followed up by a phone call to the VP in charge of the service center.

Home S&W isn't going to throw away their reputation by using salvaged parts.

Take Care

Bob
 
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...Sylva-regarding-the-new-629-with-4-2-inch-bbl

POST#9

Can-down, I hear what you are saying, and would agree with you except for one detail. If "heat treating" were the reason, how did this entire batch make it out the door and past the Quality-Control? One revolver, sure, a batch of revolvers?

Also, peening of the notch generally occurs after thousands of rounds or poorly timed. If a revolver is operating perfectly (mine is) how the hell did it get peened in the first place?

The only explanation as far as I am concerned is that these revolvers were made with "used" parts (i.e. mostly cylinders).

Also note the crazy-gap in serial numbers on the frames; mine is in the 48xx range... another member had a 28xx frame.
WTH? You'd think this would raise some flags somewhere.

The big scam here is we were not informed that these were new, made with old parts. I think we should all be given the option to return for full-refund, or a discount (cash-back) to reflect the "New, but with old parts" condition of the gun.

My gun was checked by a smith and is working perfectly fine. It was the smiths opinion that someone had abused the gun (spinning cylinder and abrupt stop, repeatedly), but the timing was perfect and he had no other explanation on it being a *new* gun.

Since almost all of these guns have the problem, used-parts is the only reasonable assumption.

Any other suggestions?


I've been dealing with a fair bit of US QC lately, I can believe that S&W is having issues. - dan
 
I have a lot of respect for many of the new posters. They are by far more knowledgeable than me. They seem to be mostly on the side of faulty machines, dull cutters and poor QC in general. I am now prepared to accept that these peenings are the result of bad tooling and their resemblance to normal cylinder-lock wear, is pure coincidence.

But Gentlemen, very curious, what manufacturing defect, dull cutter or faulty heating process can causes those rotation/drag marks that are present in all pictures?
 
How do you explain circular drag marks? There is only one way to get them like that. Common guys, you know that! :bangHead:

All my revolvers have drag marks and while I've only bought one new it came with drag marks and powder fouling.
It's almost like someone test fired it a few times....
 
If you are talking about this type of drag wear:

M-29c.jpg


Then that is most decidedly NOT from drag wear. It's from the locking bolt dragging on the cylinder. This happens, typically, because the cylinder was manually cycled without the hammer at half-####. It can also happen during very rapid dry-fire.

It won't affect function, but should not be present on a NEW revolver.

Sadly, no dealer will take your word that you didn't do it yourself and it's technically not broken. It would not bother me to much, to be honest. If you want to sell it at a small loss, drop me a PM.
 
^^^

Hey, I hear that and I feel it.

I was hoping to buy a beautiful piece that I could show-off and be proud to own. I've been reading S&W praise threads for years on this site and others. I loved seeing ###y S&W revolvers of all different calibers, sizes, finishes and generations.

So here I am. I finally decide to jump on board and buy a piece of history. What happens? I buy a historical piece all right, a revolver which pin-points the exact moment in time where S&W officially hits rock-bottom.

Not what I had in mind.
 
^^^

Hey, I hear that and I feel it.

I was hoping to buy a beautiful piece that I could show-off and be proud to own. I've been reading S&W praise threads for years on this site and others. I loved seeing ###y S&W revolvers of all different calibers, sizes, finishes and generations.

So here I am. I finally decide to jump on board and buy a piece of history. What happens? I buy a historical piece all right, a revolver which pin-points the exact moment in time where S&W officially hits rock-bottom.

Not what I had in mind.
I have to agree G37. I was always told by shops and smiths that S&W was quality and you could not go wrong. This is my first revolver and while i am going to stick with it, i an not over the moon by the product S&W sent to Canada.

This will be my last S&W purchase.
 
Hi, sorry to be so long in replying but a buddy who spends way more time on the forums just emailed me about the topic, I own several S&W revolvers and a couple have that peening on them. One I did myself before I learned better and one I bought like that. The galling at the lock points and drag marks come from a half #### and spinning the cylinder like you are playing russian roulette and listening to it click, very cowboy and not part of the testing at S&W, I would suggest that someone has been "PLAYING" with the firearm before you recieved it and after it left S&W. I do have one question for you, Did the gun have any marks when you checked it at the store to verify the serial number of your purchace?
Cheers
 
Honestly guys, this whole thing is way overblown. The peening I see in these pics isn't all that bad and is likely the result of careless handling by someone somewhere along the retail chain, but should not affect function. Ditto the drag marks.

Bent cranes are another matter though...

If anyone is actually that outraged by the cylinder defects, my offer stands - I'll buy one at a reasonable discount (say, $850 plus ship) for it being a used gun now) ;) Nobody can be that outraged because I haven't been taken up on my offer to bail anyone out yet! lol...
 
^^
This cost me a grand-total of $1148.32 (after taxes and shipping).
I also paid an additional $37 to ship it to Murray for inspection... putting this beauty at nearly $1200.00

It is Unfired. BNIB. It's also been verified "good-to-go" by a reputable S&W gunsmith ;)

I realize this isn't the EE, but I dont think peolpe understand what we paid for these. This is one of the main reasons behind being upset; I'd never pay this much had I known how they were coming.

$850 would be an instant $335 loss (providing you paid shipping) on an BNIB gun! Unacceptable.
I think a $185.32 loss on a brand new gun is more reasonable (after my costs).

Anyone can PM me if they want to with regards to this, no more EE'like talk here as I believe it is against rules (should be done in EE); this post was only to answer the speculative offer of $850 to anyone who wasn't happy.

~Cheers
 
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I've emailed S&W again in regards to them selling refurbished 629's to Canada and this time I got a confirmation number stating that my email would get a reply. Fingers crossed. I will call if I don't hear by the end of the week. I'm determined now to find out what exactly went on.

Thank you for contacting us!
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To help track your inquiry we have generated a reference number. Your ticket code is ***************. Please use this code in any further communication.
 
I've emailed S&W again in regards to them selling refurbished 629's to Canada and this time I got a confirmation number stating that my email would get a reply. Fingers crossed. I will call if I don't hear by the end of the week. I'm determined now to find out what exactly went on.

Thank you for contacting us!
We have received your inquiry and are assigning it to a representative. Due to the high volume of correspondence we are currently receiving it can take up to 3 business days to receive a response.

To help track your inquiry we have generated a reference number. Your ticket code is ***************. Please use this code in any further communication.

Thank you, Keep us updated G37.
 
^^
This cost me a grand-total of $1148.32 (after taxes and shipping).
I also paid an additional $37 to ship it to Murray for inspection... putting this beauty at nearly $1200.00

It is Unfired. BNIB. It's also been verified "good-to-go" by a reputable S&W gunsmith ;)

I realize this isn't the EE, but I dont think peolpe understand what we paid for these. This is one of the main reasons behind being upset; I'd never pay this much had I known how they were coming.

$850 would be an instant $335 loss (providing you paid shipping) on an BNIB gun! Unacceptable.
I think a $185.32 loss on a brand new gun is more reasonable (after my costs).

Anyone can PM me if they want to with regards to this, no more EE'like talk here as I believe it is against rules (should be done in EE); this post was only to answer the speculative offer of $850 to anyone who wasn't happy.

~Cheers

Look, in reality, my point is that nobody is going to offer me one at that price. I chose that number because another poster said he flogged his off for $800 (which I have a hard time believing). A lot of people like to gripe, but the guns are still worth what was paid - and that's what I'm driving at.

I'm not tryign to post an EE WTB and it should not be interpreted as such. If I wanted one bad enough, I'd just go buy it. It's like when ppl say "I'll take all the ones you will sell me for X". Got it?
 
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