making custom 1911 grips
- Thread starter belkrem
- Start date
to answer a few questions
1. honestly haven't got the design down enough yet to even think about selling them but a price would depend on the type of wood
2. I could make them in any thickness
3. the vertical grain is the way i am going but that was just a render of the cad file i made.
that was my first trial run on the cnc. Going to be making a few changes to the grips.
making the border of leaf thinner and getting rid of the two center borderline.
Angling the bottom of the grips.
and fine product will be on cocobolo i am playing with the cheap stuff for now.
still playing with the fill on the leaf have found one i am happy with yet.
1. honestly haven't got the design down enough yet to even think about selling them but a price would depend on the type of wood
2. I could make them in any thickness
3. the vertical grain is the way i am going but that was just a render of the cad file i made.
that was my first trial run on the cnc. Going to be making a few changes to the grips.
making the border of leaf thinner and getting rid of the two center borderline.
Angling the bottom of the grips.
and fine product will be on cocobolo i am playing with the cheap stuff for now.
still playing with the fill on the leaf have found one i am happy with yet.
- Location
- Ottawa origanally Muskoka
Nice. That's a neat design.I would like to see wood with more grain definition however. Coco-bolo is a bit plain looking. I'm thinking curly (tigger) maple or birds eye maple would be a nice touch for the maple leaf design.
Ebony...African Blackwood, custom designs? I'm thinking an open, simple Celtic knot would be nice and "grippie" and unique for my stainless SR1911 (no ambi safety).
I love the tiger maple no if only i could get some in pembroke. I probably will sell some eventually but i am very new with the whole cnc game as i just made my cnc mill 2 weeks ago i am still ironing out all the bugs in the mill. And my cad skill need some work havent touched master cam since highschool about a decade ago.
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The groove for the maple leaf is rather wide and deep. It makes the otherwise good design idea look clunky and cheap. If you can't source a narrower cutter then try grinding and stoning one down to a smaller size. Or look at going with a long V notch cutter that is slightly radiused at the base then control the width of the line with the penetration.
Old time engraving machines used a small cutter of this sort. They are a single point, long angle V that is made from a simple turned shape where you simply cut away a flat on one side by a little more than half the diameter. This leaves the "D" cross section able to cut the surface.
Old time engraving machines used a small cutter of this sort. They are a single point, long angle V that is made from a simple turned shape where you simply cut away a flat on one side by a little more than half the diameter. This leaves the "D" cross section able to cut the surface.
heavenIsAlie
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Abbotsford
needs less flat surface area personally, I like the pattern but flat=slippery=grip moves in your hands
belkrem, I like what you're doing! I like the maple leaf design - it occurs to me that after staining & finishing, filling in the groove with, say, bright red epoxy (similar to cloisonne) would help to set it off (just my personal taste, of course!). I would HAPPILY put a set on one of my 1911's.
Keep us posted! If & when you get geared up to the point of commercial production, I will be one of your first customers!!
Keep us posted! If & when you get geared up to the point of commercial production, I will be one of your first customers!!
