Kawasaki, Bombardier or Yamaha ATVs

Big fan of the Kawi's.

Why?

Hydraulic progressive locking front diff....no servos or buttons to push, no stopping in the middle of the mud hole so you can lock the diff losing momentum...you just stick your finger out, grab the diff-lock trigger and squeeze. The harder you squeeze, the more the front end locks up. It's simple, incredibly effective and absolutely bulletproof.

Oil-bathed rear brake. There's no drums, no discs, the rear brake is an oil-bathed clutch pack around the rear drive shaft...it NEVER gets wet, it NEVER wears out, and it ALWAYS works.
 
Dads grizzly has 5500 kms on it and he had to put a water pump on it. Original belt no other issues.
Good power, diff lock is great, power steering is really nice. They haven't changed much in 5 years so parts are easy if you ever need them.
 
I love my Brute Force. I've had me all and don't plan on slowing down anytime soon. You cant go wrong with any Japanese bike, they all have their strengths and weaknesses. My 2007 Brute 650 Vtwin is coming up on 7000 hard km and still has the original rear wet brakes. The bike fits me well and I ride it well, it will be getting a Fundy kit this winter.
 
I love my 06 750 bruteforce. I chipped it and put mudlite xtrs on it. Never had a problem besides changing the belt. Only thing I don't like is the diff lock is a manual lever. My dads yamaha 350 kodiak has electric diff lock, its great when your stuck and pushing the bike from the side. How I look at it is if you want the best power for your buck get a kawi(v-twin power). If you want to spend a bit more for the electric goodies I'd get the yamaha. Yamaha 550 with power stearing and 25" mudlite xtrs would be a great machine! Also the yamaha seats are compfy.
 
Kawasaki gets my vote, to my 2006 I added a, winch, 2" lift,a set of 26" mudlites, Dynatek CDI bx and its a beast.

Front diff lock, and the wet brakes are excellent, plus the 750 has a ton of power.

Manual diff lock is great, no electric issues to worry about like Yamaha

I had one electrical issue that needed a repair ( did myself ), but that issue was resolved on the 2008 models. ( google rear Buss connector )

For added reliability I took apart every electrical connector and filled with di-electric grease and re-connected.

The lift kit/ wheel spacers ( 1 1/2" ), puts the suspension at a sharper angle than stock so may wear the CV joints and tie rods, balljoints a little sooner than normal, but so far so good.

The bigger than stock tires puts a little more stress on the clutch springs, but like above, so far so good

Wrong Way, I have a new in box Moose module that will wake up your Brute, let me know if your interested
 
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I love my 06 750 bruteforce. I chipped it and put mudlite xtrs on it. Never had a problem besides changing the belt. Only thing I don't like is the diff lock is a manual lever. My dads yamaha 350 kodiak has electric diff lock, its great when your stuck and pushing the bike from the side. How I look at it is if you want the best power for your buck get a kawi(v-twin power). If you want to spend a bit more for the electric goodies I'd get the yamaha. Yamaha 550 with power stearing and 25" mudlite xtrs would be a great machine! Also the yamaha seats are compfy.




My Brute also wears XTRs and has been chipped and sports a full HMF Swamp serries exhaust, etc...

I have to say though, the kawi finger diff lock is the SH!T and one main reason I love this bike so much. When your balls deep in a hole fighting for traction, grabbing the diff lock with your left finger is much easier than looking for switches. Once the front tires are up and out, simply let go of the lever and stay on the throttle. There is NO transition between open and locked, just keep riding.

The Yamaha diff lock is the hokiest of the them all. All lawyered up to the point of almost being useless. You need to come to a full stop, flip the safety cover blocking the diff lock switch over top of the 4wd selector, then push diff lock on (I'm not making this #### up). This means you need to plan ahead of when you actually require the diff lock. Stupid design. I want it when I need it and I want it off as soon as I'm done with it. The Yamaha system is electronic and not reliable, they get wet, coroded and stop working. Sometime they stop working while the front diff is locked up. A cable locker is a simple, reliable and easily serviced system.

KAWI ROCKS!!!
 
stay away from kawi

Oh yeah? Mind explainaing that or?

All my family run Kawasaki ATV's without any problems. I bought a 2012 Bruteforce 750 last year and I love it! Hasn't let me down yet and I dont think it ever will. I didnt even go look at other brands, I walked in the dealership and bought it. The power steering is not too touchy(Good thing) and the bike has plenty of power for whatever I do. I find with some of the new bikes the power steering is way too sensitive and it kind of makes it dangerous/not as fun to drive.

I wont start bashing Yamaha or Bombardier since I have never owned one. I know many friends who swear by them and they have many reasons. I think it comes down to which ever you enjoy riding the most. At the end of the day they are all good bikes. If you're having a hard time deciding try and get a quick test drive on each.

Let us know what you choose! :cheers:
 
@Canadian Zuk^^^^ I can't say I agree about the electronic diff lock being prone to breakage (Owned a 660 Grizz before my BF 750), I DO agree that it is inferior operation wise. Having to stop to lock the diff is friggin stupid. When I'm balls-deep in snot and it's looking iffy on whether I'm gonna run out of forward momentum/traction and make it to the other side, the LAST thing I want to do is stop in the middle of it to lock the diff. Been there, done that, never again.
 
I think there all probably great machines performance wise there probably all pretty close, ground clearance wise same thing,
It comes down to what one you like the look and feel of better

I switched from Yamaha to Polaris in 2003 just because a deal came along and still have it. A 2003 Sportsman 700
It gets worked pretty hard plowing snow and hunting (pulling moose & deer)and other than routine maintenance
I've only had to change the battery twice and 2 ball joints last year never had a problem with the belt and I've had it submerged many times
 
There are quite a few threads on this. But technology is moving fast, so this thread is welcome. I am also in the same market except that I never considered Bombardier. Instead, Suzuki King Quad has been on my list.

I hear (read) that while Yamaha is a best seller and well liked, like somebody mentioned before, it is overdue for a redesign and left behind by redesigned Brute Force and King Quad. The new one should be out soon and the old ones should go for a discount (at least that is what I am hoping for!).

Also, I recently test drive a Polaris. Not bad and a few grands cheaper than the Japanese. Not sure what kind of long term reputation they have though.
 
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Also, I recently test drive a Polaris. Not bad and a few grands cheaper that the Japanese. Not sure what kind of reputation they have though.

A close friend of mine just bough the 2013 Polaris Browing Edition and he likes it alot, it was still cheaper than my Bruteforce and when we go out together he says he wished he spent more and bought a Kawi. That being said hes happy with the bike and he paid way less.
 
^ Polaris is good value for your money. 550 HO out the door for $6500 tax in is hard to beat. Polaris is reliable, no frills. Diff Locks are not required with their Hillard design front diffs. 850 XP is a good $4000 cheaper than the outlander Max.

I ride hard with a group of hunting buddies, we log a few thousand KM in the bush/trails each year. Right now our group consists of 2 Polaris RZR 800s, Canam 1000 XTP, Canam1000 XMR, Polaris 850 XP, 550 Polaris HO, 450 Kodiak, Honda 450ES, my 650 BF, 400 Eiger, 700 King Quad. The BRP products ruin our trips just about every outing (UNRELIABLE), but man are they mean machines. The Suzuki Eiger, Honda Foreman and my BF have never once had an issue.

My previous machines: Yamaha warrior 350, Yamaha Grizzly 600, Suzuki Eiger 400, Yamaha Banshee 350 2stroke, Polaris Scramble 500HO, Honda Big red, Honda 250R trike, Yamaha 225DX, 85 Kawi Tecate, Tri-z, plus sleds from Yamaha, BRP and Polaris.

I'm basing my opinions on my experiences with just about every manufacturer. I have never owned a BRP.
 
My Brute also wears XTRs and has been chipped and sports a full HMF Swamp serries exhaust, etc...

I have to say though, the kawi finger diff lock is the SH!T and one main reason I love this bike so much. When your balls deep in a hole fighting for traction, grabbing the diff lock with your left finger is much easier than looking for switches. Once the front tires are up and out, simply let go of the lever and stay on the throttle. There is NO transition between open and locked, just keep riding.

The Yamaha diff lock is the hokiest of the them all. All lawyered up to the point of almost being useless. You need to come to a full stop, flip the safety cover blocking the diff lock switch over top of the 4wd selector, then push diff lock on (I'm not making this #### up). This means you need to plan ahead of when you actually require the diff lock. Stupid design. I want it when I need it and I want it off as soon as I'm done with it. The Yamaha system is electronic and not reliable, they get wet, coroded and stop working. Sometime they stop working while the front diff is locked up. A cable locker is a simple, reliable and easily serviced system.

KAWI ROCKS!!!

I gotta say i do love that the kawi diff lock system is easy to use and great for on the fly, but if i get off my bike to push it through a snow drift i don't always want both hands on the bars. I usually throttle with 1 hand and help push with the other. The Yamaha system does take time to engage at times, but i just turn it on ahead of time if i think il need it. As for reliability iv never had to fix the yamys diff lock system so i'm not sure. I love kawis and would stick with them, just though i would give my opinions on both. There are ups and downs to both. I guess i would say i like the brute for the mud because you never know when your gona get stuck in a hole. But I prefer the yamaha's diff for snow, as i'm constantly getting off to push if i bottom out.
 
I gotta say i do love that the kawi diff lock system is easy to use and great for on the fly, but if i get off my bike to push it through a snow drift i don't always want both hands on the bars. I usually throttle with 1 hand and help push with the other. The Yamaha system does take time to engage at times, but i just turn it on ahead of time if i think il need it. As for reliability iv never had to fix the yamys diff lock system so i'm not sure. I love kawis and would stick with them, just though i would give my opinions on both. There are ups and downs to both. I guess i would say i like the brute for the mud because you never know when your gona get stuck in a hole. But I prefer the yamaha's diff for snow, as i'm constantly getting off to push if i bottom out.

wrap a thick rubber band (like the kind that come on broccoli) around your left grip for the next time you want to keep your diff lock engaged. :)
 
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