How to go about an M-16A1 (not auto) build?

Teapot said:
The SP1's have larger diameter holes for the take-down pins so they would require a a special pin to adapt to regular pin hole receivers. These are not totally successful. Colt was foolish for doing this in the first place.
I'd not own one.

Are NoDak Spud upper sand lowers available from dealers in
Canada?
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Do some more research my friend, Colt was FORCED to make those changes, not foolish.

SP1 rifles are directly comparable to the issued m16 or xm16 of the date of manufacture.

SP1 rifles use milspec rear takedown pins, trigger and jammer pins & standard ar15 triggergroup. The only "changes"
Which are not easily reversible is the oversize front pin. Either eccentric screws or replacement push pins are available.

NODAK is not itar registered as far as I know, so any in canada are potentially subject to seizure and return to the usa. Not that I've ever heard of such an event....recently....
 
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Lee Enfield said:
SP1 rifles are directly comparable to the issued m16 or xm16 of the date of manufacture.
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I don't quite agree with this. SP1s were a dumping ground for parts that the DoD wouldn't allow to be installed on contract rifles, so thing like Edgewater buffers, chrome parts, 3-prong flash hiders were found on SP1s months after being phased out of the M16A1s.

The SP1 has one major deviation from the M16: all SP1s were built on type 1 lower receivers while M16s were built on type 2 lowers (1964-67) or type 3 (1967 onward). And, compared the M16A1 that the OP is actually wanting, there is another difference, the lack of a forward assist. The forward assist defines the M16A1, so this is a pretty big difference.
 
Lee Enfield said:
Do some more research my friend, Colt was FORCED to make those changes, not foolish.

SP1 rifles are directly comparable to the issued m16 or xm16 of the date of manufacture.

SP1 rifles use milspec rear takedown pins, trigger and jammer pins & standard ar15 triggergroup. The only "changes"
Which are not easily reversible is the oversize front pin. Either eccentric screws or replacement push pins are available.

NODAK is not itar registered as far as I know, so any in canada are potentially subject to seizure and return to the usa. Not that I've ever heard of such an event....recently....
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What? Really? I was planning to set aside money for an XM16E1 build...
 
I just built one using a Norc CQ-311, it turned out great! Handgaurds and rear grip were found on the EE, I got my 20 round mags from here: http://selectshootingsupplies.com/c...ts/okay-5-20-5-56-223-us-mil-spec-ar-magazine (Bought more than I needed...haha) but had to machine my own 3-prong flash hider, Norinco uses an M12x1 thread on the barrel. Parts are surprisingly easy to come across, the build cost me a bit less than $750 including the rifle.
 
xm16e1 is just an early colt m16a1 gun. The Sp1 colt is very close. you just need a conversion pin to put on the m16 forward assist barrelled upper receiver. You would also need the old style buttstock. There used to be lots of them around from when the US converted them to m16a2's. Most of these parts came from the National Guard Armories.
 
The closest semi auto M16A1 copy I remember seeing was the old SGW CAR-AR series with pushpin A1 lowers and uppers with tear drop forward assist and a 1/12" twist std. weight barrel. Never were that many around, but they were somewhat popular years ago when Colt was on strike and all that was available commercially was SGW and Bushmaster.
 
"...an M-16A1 semi-automatic rifle..." That'd be an AR-15. Less expensive to buy than build.
"...have closed the border with us..." Nope. They've just decided, long ago, that AR parts require a permit to export and the manufacturers require an exporter's licence. They think it'll keep AR's out of the hands of terrs.
 
Ok hope I don't derail this too far. I have been reading a number of different threads on AR's. I have seen reference to ramped bolts on 9mm's and going to a full auto hammer to stop binding of the bolt as some have notched hammers that don't work with the 9mm bolt. I have also seen reference to being able to buy the full auto selector switch in Canada for that full auto look. As well as full auto bolts.

Ok so my question is just how far could you take a Full auto looking clone, before it became illegal.
 
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Ditchdogger said:
I asked because I want to know how far you can take the clone thing without going to the ass #### hotel. I thought that was pretty clear. I see reference to full auto parts here and there that are legal. How far is to far.
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BCG is OK, trigger, hammer, disconnector, selector, all OK - sear installed/sear hole drilled = not good in a very large way.
 
enefgee said:
BCG is OK, trigger, hammer, disconnector, selector, all OK - sear installed/sear hole drilled = not good in a very large way.
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Thanks I was wondering from a visual aesthetics point of view if the selector switch was changed and the hole was drilled with a blind pin installed for appearance.
But the lower was not machined so the sear still wouldn't fit that would give a better appearance of an M16. Although that may draw more attention than a guy may want.
 
Ditchdogger said:
Thanks I was wondering from a visual aesthetics point of view if the selector switch was changed and the hole was drilled with a blind pin installed for appearance.
But the lower was not machined so the sear still wouldn't fit that would give a better appearance of an M16. Although that may draw more attention than a guy may want.
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That's very risky with a high shelf lower, and just plain dumb with a low shelf lower. Most police officers don't have a huge background of knowledge on the AR/M16 - they may (possibly) know enough to be suspicious of the hole, but not enough to open it up and see the shelf and put the necessary facts together. Doing it with a low shelf lower is de facto making a full auto lower.
 
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