Just got my Sightron SIII 6-24x50 FFP MRAD! Before and after shots.

L

longarm21

Regular
Rating - 100%
41   0   0
Location
Alberta
If you saw any of my previous posts you'll know I'm trying to take this mid 90's rem 700 PSS in .308 and make it a precision setup.

Up till now I've been using an old Tasco Super Sniper 10x42, quick detach ARMS alum rings, 2 part alum base. When I removed this setup the other day, the base was very worn from movement of the rings. Not good....
At this time I'm shooting sub M.O.A. at 100m but I want to get this thing rockin and at much further distances because I know this is a capable rifle. Many of you have given me good input and a special thanks to Jerry from Mystic for giving patient guidance to a noob LR shooter like myself.

As the title says after MUCH DELIBERATION (about 12 months) I just ordered one of the brand new FFP Sightrons to try to up my game a bit. I ordered some NF low rings to go on it, and I figured they should work with my 20 MOA badger rail.
These are the first 3 major steps I have taken to make my rifle more accurate.

I'm very excited to put this new glass on and as soon as I do I will start with some range reports.

Now the questions.

When operating with a scope that does not have zero stop, does one count the clicks?
Or is there a hash mark system that can be used reliably on the turret on a Sightron?
Any Tips?

Here is the before shot!

 
Last edited:
I have the 8x32x56 in lrmoa and if the turrets are similar you zero in, then loosen the turret with the torx screw and turn the turret back to 0, then tighten it up, as long as you don't go all the way around, or if you do keep in track.
 
looking forward to read your range reports
I got the 8-32 lrmoa on the 308, and planning to put another SIII on the 338
zero stop might be usefull for a sniper, but for tatget shooting, it is not nessary.
just adjust your knob to zero once sighted at desired distance, and remember on which turn your zero is or make a mark on the turret with a sharpie if it is still possible to dial down more than one turn.
 
dastt said:
I have the 8x32x56 in lrmoa and if the turrets are similar you zero in, then loosen the turret with the torx screw and turn the turret back to 0, then tighten it up, as long as you don't go all the way around, or if you do keep in track.
Click to expand...

Once the scales have been slipped, with the rifle zeroed at the base range, note the exposed lines on the column. This is the starting point, and it is easy to return to this position. A zero stop is not necessary.
One full turn of elevation is 15 minutes. Depending on caliber, getting to 800m or 900m is going to take 30 minutes of elevation, or more. Two or more turns. It doesn't matter if the knob is turned more than one revolution. The number of minutes can be easily determined. That is the whole point of the vernier type scales on the elevation and windage. Settings are repeatable. Keep a record of the "come ups" for the ammunition being used. The adjustments can be repeated at will.
Doesn't matter if the scope is calibrated in MOA or mils. The principal is the same. It isn't necessary to count clicks.
Using the hash marks on the reticle for different elevations is at best an approximation, compared with using the actual adjustments.
 
After shot!




Nightforce Lightweight Low Rings. 20 MOA badger rail.

Just hand tightened on to check fit on the rings. Tomorrow I'm getting it properly mounted and torqued. Anyone know any smiths in Alberta that can put on a tactical bolt knob?

Zeroing and range report to follow soon!!
 
Last edited:
I actually got it from Prophet River Firearms. They have really great prices there. The MSRP for this scope is nearly 1400 bucks according to Sightron's website and I got it for under 1100 from Prophet river. They don't stock it but they can order them in.
 
Love it. Took it out to Zero today. Rough boresight got me on paper. After that I measured my distance to the centre of the target in mils at 100m. I simply adjusted with clicks (.1 MRAD) and my next shot was dead centre. 2 round zero. Beautiful scope, beautiful tracking. Tracking was dead on. I will do a box test next time out to show more.

The clarity of this scope is incredible. I was not aware that glass like this even existed. Once focused, the sight picture is excellent, the reticle clarity is great. I am thoroughly impressed with this scope, and highly recommend it so far. I am glad that I did my research and got the FFP in MRAD, because I understand the mils system from being in the military. I would like to thank Jerry for pushing me in this direction.

Moved out to 200m. Noticed I was a little off, so adjusted with a few clicks, and bang! centre of paper.

As far as how I like FFP, the ability to measure your target quickly regardless of magnification is truly worth the extra money.

Shot a few rounds at 200m. 3 round group sub MOA, then the last one got away from me - likely bad marksmanship principles (lately I've been having a problem with anticipating recoil because my rifle has no rubber buttstock, its hard plastic) then went back to 100m. Shot this group. Not the best but I'm already seeing a difference in the group consistency. The furthest shot away is because I think I used a slightly different point of aim. Need to work on basics to tighten this up. Zeroed at 200m, aiming at the bottom of the little diamond. Started out as a great group and I blew it. lol


All shot with 168 gr Hornady A-Max MATCH.


 
Last edited:
The problem with FFP is the clutter it creates at lower zoom levels.

Personal preference I guess. I'd like more time on one to determine which way I go on my next scope.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom