Joined the brotherhood of the M305

wayupnorth

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Northern Alberta
so i have had a Ruger Mini 14 for years, LOVE IT!

i picked up the Ruger Scout when they came out, LOVE IT!

i have been wanting a M14 for years because it is a mix of the Ruger Mini 14 and Scout all in one..... or i guess more accuratlly the mini 14 and the scout came about from taking apart the M14....

at any rate, ive been wanting one for a while and im too damn cheap to put out the 2k for a Springfield.
my dad picked up a shorty last year and he likes it so i decided to take the plunge when Marstar came out with a batch of the Long M305 last week.

so she arrived today, here are some pic's of her fresh out of the box/bag/cosmoline!

Prop's to Marstar for making and sending out all their guns in they own case, bloody good marketing!

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everything sealed in bags and full of cosmoline goodness!

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Gahd! look at all the cosmoline!

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ive said it before and ill say it again..... that fella that works at the Norinco Factory who's job it is to squirt a shot of Cosmoline into every bag must be the bloody employee of the month ever frigg'n month!

interesting little cosmoline tampons tied onto the gun...

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ok, thats enough of her all dirty, into the bath!
full dissassembly right down to every little bolt and into the barrel of scolding hot water and dishsoap for 30 minutes then a toothbrush scrub of every part!

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everyone out of the pool, time to try!

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VERY SURPRISED to run a swatch down the barrel and see this!

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no longer riveting the 20rd mags, they now have a internal metal fin to pin them at 5

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mags needed to go into the house for a 2nd wash..... soooo much cosmoline!

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all in all happy with the gun, everything looks good.
definatly a lot more mill marks and not as de-horned as my Ruger Mini 14, but i have plans for this gun this winter.
i think im gonna strip it and de-horn it and send it down to Arma-Coat and have it redone all smooth like.
thats my plan anyways.

did notice one thing thats a little messed up.
the synthetic stock has some gunk on both sides of it.... looks like whatever they used for lubricant on the bolts into the stock melted into the stock?
had to wash the stock 4 times then take a plastic scrub brush to it just to get the sticky stuff off it, but you can see that discoloration is still there.

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not a big deal, i have a couple cans of OD green from another project so i thought maybe id give it a pain job.

anyways, gun is currently still air drying after i toweled all the parts off, gonna go up now and soak everything in 3 coats of G96 Gun treatment then let her dry overnight to absorb it.
re-assemble in the morning then out the range.

if it runs good ill take the stock back off and give it some paint.
then this winter its work on the metal.

oh, as for the problems areas, front sights looks good.
i have no idea what 'barrel indexing' is, so i cant check that yet.
 
That was oil not cosmline....

way easier to clean.... just rub it off basicly..

Now you might want to use grease on the bolt rail instead of oil it works way better. Also you will have to adjust the gas system as most will be a single shot out of the box till you adjust it.

Barrel indexing is the gas system when you take the nut thing off it spins and tightens when it gets to the gas system that's about it some people put a shim in so it tightens right at the end right before you put the cap and gas piston in.
It's the metal part that can spin and puts pressure on the gas block not the screw on cap but the part that is right after it.
 
why grease instead of oil?

where i am it gets -40 regular like, so i found that over the years nothing beats G96 for the cold weather on moving metal parts.
ive had my AR freeze solid mid magazine one time!

but if grease is needed i may need to find a good - temp graphite grease....
 
Congrats on the M14, I thoroughly enjoy mine! Bought it from Marstar as well & did the Hungry clinic as well as other tweaks!

For $399, you just can't beat the deal.

Cheers
Jay
 
why grease instead of oil?where i am it gets -40 regular like, so i found that over the years nothing beats G96 for the cold weather on moving metal parts.
ive had my AR freeze solid mid magazine one time!

but if grease is needed i may need to find a good - temp graphite grease....

I'm by no means an M14 expert, but i believe it's just that they are the high friction areas and that grease prevents excess wear better than oil. Pretty well all of the stickies i have read go over where to grease in the chamber/bolt.
 
I haven't taken mine apart yet, but was just oozing with oil, and a lot of patches down the bore before it came out clean.
 
Grease, grease, grease. Its a must in order for your M14 to run correct. Use white lithium grease from an auto parts store squirted into a plastic syringe. That way you can get it into all the nooks and crannies you need to. Read the stickies at the top of the page and you can find all the grease points. Rails, roller, oprod, underside of bolt, trigger group, and so one. As for your barrel index, this means whether a barrel is over or under tightened into the receiver. Because some of the barrels are over or under indexed the sights are installed off center to compsate. Again this is only scratching the surface of what to look for. Read the stickies and you will find everything you need to know. WELCOME TO THE CLUB!!
 
Mine was put together nicely with the exception of the barrel being overindexed and the rear sights being crap.

If I can pull a Hungry clinic together again, I'd like to host one at EESA and get that barrel fixed. I have Italian M1 Garand sights I got from Marstar to replace the Chinese junk, then I have a real shooter. No biggie if you want to scope it. I like the open sights on Garands and M14s A LOT!
 
That was oil not cosmline....

way easier to clean.... just rub it off basicly..

Now you might want to use grease on the bolt rail instead of oil it works way better. Also you will have to adjust the gas system as most will be a single shot out of the box till you adjust it.

Barrel indexing is the gas system when you take the nut thing off it spins and tightens when it gets to the gas system that's about it some people put a shim in so it tightens right at the end right before you put the cap and gas piston in.
It's the metal part that can spin and puts pressure on the gas block not the screw on cap but the part that is right after it.

Barrel Indexing (Over or Under) is not an issue with the gas system its how tight or not tight the barrel is, if its too tight or too loose you will shoot noticeably to either the left or the right if its real bad you will see it right away when looking down the sights as the front sight might be canted to one side, this can be fixed with a big wrench and a vice and some levels or solid steel pieces, I recommend contacting Tactical Teacher, or have a gander thru the stickies to see how it is done properly. The front sights themselves/ flash suppressors can be just as bad tho, I recommend get a new springfield flash suppressor and front sight before indexing the barrel. if the barrel needs it. after I got my new sights and barrel indexed it made a huge improvement on accuracy. What haha49 is talking about as far the the gas system is how tight it should be, as this will effect accuracy/ function of the rifle, some of these gas systems need to be shimmed to help tighten up the function, also should be done after the barrel is indexed. If you can ever get the chance head out to one of Hungry's/Tactical Teachers Clinics, they are super informative and really improve the rifles.
 
And some of the gas systems don't need shimming AFTER we carry out the '180 degree' fix which I will show ya at the M14 Clinic!

Welcome to the addiction.

Cheers and keep helping the newbs around here!

Barney
 
why grease instead of oil?

where i am it gets -40 regular like, so i found that over the years nothing beats G96 for the cold weather on moving metal parts.
ive had my AR freeze solid mid magazine one time!

but if grease is needed i may need to find a good - temp graphite grease....

I just use an all weather dirt bike chain grease the reason why is it was designed to work with it and it functions way better with it then oil. Not the right type of grease to use but it works just as well as white lithum grease and it seems to last longer before cleanings then it so it works well.
 
so i hit the local car supply store today and i was standing in the aisle with the grease and i am totally lost.
there must be 30 different types of grease!

what is the best stuff, or what would you guys recomend?
i was leaning towards the either the white lithium or the silicone ones.
both are dry grease which sounded a bit more appealing then buying a tube of the traditional grease and coating the poor action in it.

if anyone can give me a bit of guidance in this i would appreciate the help.
thanks again!
 
*update*
i had this over in another thread but figured i should move/copy it over to here as well to show how the new girl runs out of the box.

went out to the range.
set up on some bags.
gun is straight out of the box, havnt even sighted it in yet these are straight out of the box shots.

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This is 30 yards / 90 feet
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this is 55 yards / 168 feet
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this is 109 yards / 327 feet
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this is 274 yards / 822 feet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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just shy of 300 yards.... with iron!
you might all be missing the significance of this, i suck with iron!
i dont shoot past 100 feet with iron.... this is over 800 feet!!!

i was amazed!
it was like christmas!
i went and set up the 30 and 55 yard targets and when i saw how good it was shooting i clicked my heels and skipped out to the 109 yard one to set up a new target and ran all the way back squeeling with joy!
when i saw how good i did on that one i bolted out to the 274 yard one to try that one!

i am amazed!
open mouth.... in awe..... amazed!

this gun shoots better then my $1000 Browning with $500 glass!!!!

i am truly in love with this gun now, but i must say, you KNOW when youve hit the trigger on this bad boy, he tap's you with a sledge hammer on the shoulder, haha!
 
I'm in the gang!I bought it in Auckland when we watched the allblacks.I bought some ex RAF 30-06 armour piercing ammo...cos I can...!and I picked up 25,000 rounds of 22 ammo for my club.Coming from the UK,where I couldn't have done either,NZ is proving very relaxed :)
 
As far as grease goes lubriplate 130A is ideal but I also look for a grease with a good temperature range like a -40 to +250, something like that. Right now I'm trying a castrol chassis and bearing grease thats -40 to +232 I believe so its got a wide temperature range for our cold Alberta winters and then good high end for heat created by firing, cycling ETC.. I also find it stays and doesn't dissapate at all, long time before it needs a re-application. Grease over oil is key for the m14/m305 IMHO. Also notice how fast oil dissapates/disappears in a semi auto after a rigorous range day. You would need to re-oil 10 times more than re-grease. Finally I think oil picks up more dirt/fouling than grease and most grease has anti wear, anti corrosion and water repelling properties. All great properties for gun lubricant. Finally, give your m14/m305 manual that came with your gun a good read, its worth it.
 
After a range finder this is next purchase. the pics are making my wallet itch there gunna be a hole burnt through her.
 
welcome to the club.. I cant get enough of my M1A... and if you don't mind bad and slow service you can order ammo from CanAmmo but be prepared to wait FOREVER for your order
 
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