ross M10/ questions/ updated /test fired !!

NB.nagantsniper

NB.nagantsniper

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found a m10 ross...... MY 1ST ROSS !!..........sportered stock but butt still has UNIT markings under the shiney polyurethane finish.. ( photos can be posted if needed, not best but hopefully ok!)

original barrel lenth with proper front site. it was re blued by previous owner . bore looks a bit worn but i think will be ok.

i tried the bullet in the muzzle trick and the bullet protrudes out 1/2 way.
( or is that an old wives tale/ bull*#### ??)


my MAIN questions are --after a quick dissassembly ( but not the unpinned bolt! )


issue 1--------------it needs an extractor .........i new that before buying it . any source or help? can EXTRACTOR be repaired/ saved? seems very worn and doesnt pull brass / pull out the casing on unfired ammo.


issue 2---- the magazine doesnt feed ammo well works with 1 round but then, .........the follower seems very stiff and sticks down if pushed down with a finger ..........ANY WAY TO
DISS--ASSEMBLE THE MAG ? any ideas what could be the cause?? it appears undamaged out side.


issue 3---- the magazine cut off -- bolt removal lever just flops up and down ...........that cant be right? is there suppose to be a spring or such? ANY SOURCE /HELP/ OPTIONS ?

issue 4------ ( very minor ) but front site base is loose / wobbly ( just enough that you feel it ) any ideas on getting it firmed up ??















any help most welcomed !!

*******AM WILLING TO ship parts pay a bit for help if needed. ! ********
FROM
DON IN BATHURST NB.
 
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Can't be sure, but it may not be reblued. Foresight is on backwards. Sight base is tapered to match the taper of the barrel so when reversed it naturally wobbles, unless Bubba drives to down the barrel with a hammer to 'swage' it to size! :mad:
Bolt stop should have a detent spring and plunger, either or both may be missing.
Backsight is missing the leaf and wheel...maybe more.
Mags don't come apart well. Could be dented or just full of hard old grease or crud. Try solvent first
Extractor seems to be there, what's wrong with it?
How long is the barrel?
 
Barrel looks to be full 30.5"; the front-sight on backwards makes it look shorter. Get the front-sight on correctly and likely the muzzle will stick out a little more. Should be just about half an inch exactly; you have about a quarter-inch showing, so it should be okay. CROWN on these barrels was a very nice rounded crown like on a Winchester Model 70 or a recent 94. NOT a flat or 'square' crown.

The bullet-in-the-muzzle trick tells you how tight your barrel is at the front end. Yours is excellent. Barrels wore from TWO directions: from the Chamber and forward (from being shot) and from the Muzzle (because of sloppy cleaning). EITHER one will ruin your day's shooting. The Good Part is that there are a few things you can do to MAKE a barrel shoot well even if somewhat worn at the Breech end; there is almost NOTHING (apart from a counterbore or a new barrel) that you can do for a scrood muzzle.

How does the rifling look, just ahead of the Chamber? It should show 4 narrow Lands which are square-shouldered. If you have that, then you will have a REAL shooter.

RRCo is completely correct as to your Bolt Stop/Cutoff/Bolt Remove. From the photo it appears as if you have the special little detent in that tunnel just behind the Bolt Stop. This means that the little SPRING which powers it has either retired, gone on vacation or been kidnapped by one of Bubba's Disgusting Minions. You can probbly fake or make a spring that will work, out of one of those $6 spring packages from Princesa Auto (100 mixed springs)..... or from an old screwdriver and a piece of steel Piano string.

You have a SERIAL NUMBER! Great!

This rifle is done up like a "Stripped Ross". It could be a Bubba..... but it could also be a PERIOD conversion, in which case there is an excellent case to be made for it being a genuine WWI sniping rifle. Sniping in the Great War was more than simply a hazardous duty; it was also a sport. MOST Canadian Snipers actually used Stripped Ross Rifles; the tuned rifles with the Warner & Swayze scopes were only available a couple per Battalion..... but very Company had its own sniping section.

Check the Butt and the UNDERSIDE of the Stock for formation markings and post them here. There are many markings which are KNOWN and there are still a few which are UNKNOWN. For example, my "HMS Canada" Ross can be traced directly to the Canadian Scottish (16 Battalion) but I have a pair of Stripped Rosses here which are marked PHAB-1 and PHAB-2: unknowns, both of them, not corresponding with ANY Canadian formation but possibly from Priddy's Hard Ammunitioning Base: Royal Navy or Royal Marines.

As to an Extractor, they do pop up from time to time. Keep an eye on the EE. What is wrong with the one you have? Care to post a close-up? Sometimes the dead may be resurrected. Same holds for your rear sight, the famed Ross Battle Aperture Sight. They do turn up on occasion.

Beautiful rifle!

When you get her running, you will have to do a Range Report for us.

For an accurate load which is easy to put together, might I suggest 37 grains of 4895 with a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter bullet. Bullet should be seated to 3.05" ( you can use a Ball round to set your Seating Die).

Welcome to the Wonderful World of Ross Rifles!

You are about to discover that true PRECISION could be mass-produced 100 years ago!
 
RRCo. said:
Can't be sure, but it may not be reblued. Foresight is on backwards. Sight base is tapered to match the taper of the barrel so when reversed it naturally wobbles, unless Bubba drives to down the barrel with a hammer to 'swage' it to size! :mad:
Bolt stop should have a detent spring and plunger, either or both may be missing.
Backsight is missing the leaf and wheel...maybe more.
Mags don't come apart well. Could be dented or just full of hard old grease or crud. Try solvent first
Extractor seems to be there, what's wrong with it?
How long is the barrel?
Click to expand...


OK WILL TURN FRONT SITE on proper like, should be easy enough.

bolt stop flops ---- any info on how to remove it ? ill then look into the spring needed.

sent a note to desporterizer he also suggested solvent soaking the mag wich is in progress,

the EXTRACTOR AFTER closer looking has the claw broke off.... its jagged and cleary not enough to grap the case rim. photos later today ---------

as to rear site what leaf / wheel is missing ?? the site does adjust up / down , photo later today --------

barrel is original lenth --- i have been cleaning it with wipe out over nite for 3 nites and a few passes of brushing and hoppes 9 solvent patches started out BLACK as coal, then dark blue and currently a earth brown crud. bore looks worn but a bit better each day---- unless im too optamistic !!

ill also post the butt markings they werent scrubbed off completely also later today.

thanks everyone
from don in bathurst
 
That is a very nice Ross!!

Looks identical to my own Ross here:
297CF03E-F371-4753-8D4F-F1E602DC266C-400-000001BC70CB7303.jpg

A70494F4-F690-44EE-A839-9C43C357471F-400-000001BC77CD140A.jpg


Mine loves 35.5 grains of 4895 with a Hornaday .312 174 Gr roundnose. I seat them to .010" off the lead.

Typical 200 yard groups look like this if I do my part.
EEAEFD07-E69B-4256-AD8F-823EC7877A51-1748-00000475B1B13FC9.jpg


My mag also didn't feed properly when I got my rifle. The back lip at the top was bend forward like someone inserted the bolt wrong which cause it to catch the mag and bend it forward.

Anyhow, very nice find!!
 
thanks so far ..............have extractor and other bits on the way from another member --- thanks desporterizer !! and thanks to all for the info provided so far .

from don / bathurst nb
 
ill check that if the varasol soaking doesnt free it up thanks cosmic ..............till my parts arrive ill take the rifle appart and give things a basic cleaning as needed. BORE is much cleaner now but still get patches of muddy brown coming off.
i scrub with brass bore brush flush things out with brake cleaner . used wipe out but now patches are clear when i use it .
will get close up photos of rear site, markings on butt, an inside barrel channel this week end , or any others i see.
by don .
 
update a little good an some BAD ----------- got a bit of crud out of the magazine after soaking it in solvent ... noticed rear of mag was bent in at top...i straightened that - from reading posts thats from trying to replace bolt THE WRONG WAY ?

AND .........NOW i see mr bubba MAY HAVE OWNED THIS GUN ........... theres little screws top front edge 1 each side.....didnt notice till wiping off the crud . ALLEN KEYS- screws WERE NOT AROUND IN WW1 right ? mag does look pried-on in front .


also i now see inside the magazine, and the spring seems kinked / bent .like an L ...there looks like a brass rod either apart or broke inside .............is that REALLY BAD or correctable some how .

sorry, shakey PHOTO hope it helps i pointed to the screws and you can see the mag spring -- brass rod ? in the hole in the mag .

any help IF THE MAG NEEDS taking apart? or is it scrap? any info most welcomed .

i do have parts on the way wich include a good magazine assembly ..........just wanting to get this working and then use best of the 2 on my rifle .

 
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UPDATE .
FRONT SITE SWITCHED AROUND BUT STILL WOBBLES ???

replaced magazine it now feeds .
replaced extractor an that now works
replaced magazine cut off / bolt release .........it now has a spring and functions thank you DESPORTERIZER for the parts group you sent .

AM WORKING ON REAR SITE to replace it with a complete one . then test fire / group to see if its ok.

Will have parts not used available to others .....pm me if i can help.
from don
 
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If the foresight is in the original location there should be a groove in the top of the barrel for the locking cross pin. Is it there?
 
If the foresight base bore is original, it is tapered to match the barrel and will grip on tighter than a Scot's purse. Don't smack it on tight until you are sure that the cross pin hole is going to line up AND the sight base is in vertical position. I sold one to a member who got back to me with the information that the sight base is canted. Embarassed to say I never noticed while I had it. About the only way to fix that would be to carefully line it up straight, on tight and use a taper pin reamer to line up the holes to take a taper pin. Obviously assembled on the Plains of Abraham on Monday by a worker who had too much fermented beverage on the weekend.
 
RRCo. said:
If the foresight is in the original location there should be a groove in the top of the barrel for the locking cross pin. Is it there?
Click to expand...


yes the groove its there, but the site base slides in about 6 to 8 inches freely ............i tried another site base i just recieved from desporterizer its does the same .

i made a very thin shim and got the site base on and alined with the groove , its now on tight and pinned in. it now doesnt wobble at all. ( no permanent harm done .)

also arrived today, got a reproduction leather enfield ww1 sling for my Ross.........looks good
 
bushwhacker said:
If the foresight base bore is original, it is tapered to match the barrel and will grip on tighter than a Scot's purse. Don't smack it on tight until you are sure that the cross pin hole is going to line up AND the sight base is in vertical position. I sold one to a member who got back to me with the information that the sight base is canted. Embarassed to say I never noticed while I had it. About the only way to fix that would be to carefully line it up straight, on tight and use a taper pin reamer to line up the holes to take a taper pin. Obviously assembled on the Plains of Abraham on Monday by a worker who had too much fermented beverage on the weekend.
Click to expand...

yes the original pin-- groove its there, but the site base slides in about 6 to 8 inches freely ............i tried another site base i just recieved from desporterizer its does the same .

i made a very thin shim and got the site base on and alined with this groove , its now on tight and pinned in. it now doesnt wobble at all. ( no permanent harm done .)

also arrived today, got a reproduction leather enfield ww1 sling for my Ross.........looks good
 
NB.nagantsniper said:
yes the groove its there, but the site base slides in about 6 to 8 inches freely ............i tried another site base i just recieved from desporterizer its does the same .

i made a very thin shim and got the site base on and alined with the groove , its now on tight and pinned in. it now doesnt wobble at all. ( no permanent harm done .)

also arrived today, got a reproduction leather enfield ww1 sling for my Ross.........looks good
Click to expand...

Just measuring a couple of bases I have handy here, one like new, one used. Measured with a telescoping gauge and a digital vernier specs are

New, wide end: .660 Narrow end: .653
Used, widen end: .664 Narrow end: .654

Rather than a shim, I would carefully squeeze the base in a vise with the dovetail uppermost, using soft jaws. Squeeze it, then try it on the barrel, and repeat as necessary with slightly greater pressure each time. In effect you are making it slightly oval so that the sides will grip the barrel. You could then try a strip of shim stock of whatever thickness seems to work, maybe 1/4" wide on the underside of the sight base. The pin will pull the base tight up against the shim stock when you drive the pin in.

The other alternative is just to 'tin' it with soft solder inside and then either carefully drive it on to the barrel while keeping it hot enough to keep the solder molten, or after tinning it, sand out as much of the solder as you need to with emery paper around a dowel until you can gently drive it on until the pin hole and groove align.
 
thank RRco. good ideas ...............but already did the shim idea & its on tight / and pinned . next step is test firing and a few groups at 50m then 100m. ill try an post photos if the old boy is accurae and i can do my part with the mark 1 eyeball.
 
UPDATE -- TEST FIRED MY ROSS ................... with crappy reloads ( old bunch of my own making ) at 75m kneeling with a strong cold breeze on a colds day had 2 7 inch groups = low 7 inch and about 6 inches left of the cicle - bull. rear apeture was used set at lowest setting rear site was centred .

will post pic of target when i figure out my old cell phone ................lol
 
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