Best Press for Bulk .223?

Slug870

Slug870

CGN frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
169   0   0
Location
ON
I am looking at venturing into bulk reloading for my AR (.223) and was wondering what the best "bang for the buck" setup would be?

I will be reloading for service rifle/cqb shooting, so I am kind of veering away from my usual reloading for precision on my single stage press; hence my lack of knowledge here. As well, I would like to use the press for bulk 9mm reloading as well.

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
I've heard the Dillon 650XL is the "press of presses", but can it do .223 as well?

And of course the obvious next question Jerry, do you stock or can you get the Dillon 650XL?
 
I use my Dillon 650 for bulk .223 no problem. Usually I size first on the Dillon, then clean ultrasonicaly the run thru the Dillon to make rounds.
 
Might just be my little circle of stores around me, but I tend to think 223 is actually cheaper to buy full rounds by the case than it is to reload them. I seem to have a hard time finding bulk projectiles. I load mine simply for the fun of it, but dollar for dollar, its the same money, not including my time on top of it. 9MM is almost the same. you need to shoot many hundreds of rounds per week to outweigh the cost of the press and supplies for only 9mm and/or 223. Also, you need quite a gun and/or shooter to see a difference between factory and reloaded ammo accuracy.

with reloading 9mm and jacketed rounds the cost per box is about 8-9 bucks, assuming you have the brass already. factory can be 14-15. So a savings of 6 bucks a box. 120 bucks a case. Rough guess on a 550b Dillon press, dies, scales, flip trays etc...1000 bucks with tax, keep going with brass shakers and media, case gauges, trimmers, primer pocket cleaners. that's kinda close to 10 cases of ammo before you break even. Feel free to dissect my math, just spewing words to make a point here.

I reload because I want to. The skills and knowledge I have gained from reloading makes me a better shooter. I recommend everyone who shoots regularly be a reloader. But if you reload just to save money, I would recommend not making the investment in reloading supplies, and put it into buying ammo by the case and not one box at a time. It is tedious if you don't enjoy doing it :)

now 45ACP, or god forbid 454 casull or other large rounds, you can recoup your cash a bit faster.
 
650 with case feeder would be a fine choice.

If you plan to reload tens of thousands of rounds with the same headstamp, you can look at the 1050 with autodrive and bulletfeeder, but expect to pay big bucks

the 1050 has an integrated milcrimp primer pocket swager. but it will work fine without adjustment only if you use the same headstamp brass.

Otherwise, get a super swage and process your brass manually. Like I said, it depends if you do 1000 or 50 000...... I did 1000 with the super swage, it takes 2-3 seconds per round, and then it's good for the life of the case.

Always ends up to the same question: How much money do you want to spend, and how much free time do you have, and how much do you enjoy spending your free time doing "whatever" step.

If you have alot of money and want to do it quick, get the tools and have fun with those, but you would have to shoot a crapload of 223 to justify the cost of a 1050 with autodrive and bulletfeeder vs cheap bulk rounds.
If you enjoy it as a hobby and do not aim to get "your money back" with reloading savings, then get whatever you want and have fun with it, and then sell it when you do not want it anymore.

Still, I would say that a 650 is probably the most versatile option unless you are doing it commercially.
 
Kryogen said:
650 with case feeder would be a fine choice.

If you plan to reload tens of thousands of rounds with the same headstamp, you can look at the 1050 with autodrive and bulletfeeder, but expect to pay big bucks

the 1050 has an integrated milcrimp primer pocket swager. but it will work fine without adjustment only if you use the same headstamp brass.

Otherwise, get a super swage and process your brass manually. Like I said, it depends if you do 1000 or 50 000...... I did 1000 with the super swage, it takes 2-3 seconds per round, and then it's good for the life of the case.

Always ends up to the same question: How much money do you want to spend, and how much free time do you have, and how much do you enjoy spending your free time doing "whatever" step.

If you have alot of money and want to do it quick, get the tools and have fun with those, but you would have to shoot a crapload of 223 to justify the cost of a 1050 with autodrive and bulletfeeder vs cheap bulk rounds.
If you enjoy it as a hobby and do not aim to get "your money back" with reloading savings, then get whatever you want and have fun with it, and then sell it when you do not want it anymore.
Click to expand...

How many years do you expect to be reloading?
How much time can you afford to throw away every year by using cheaper tooling?

Amortized over the rest of your shooting life, the 1050 is cheap in the long run.
 
Yup I would go with a 650 with case feed and multiple tool heads to facilitate quick caliber changes. I am using mine for 9mm, .38/.357 and .223... it rocks. If you want to get fancy you can look into bullet feeders etc.
 
Canuck223 said:
How many years do you expect to be reloading?
How much time can you afford to throw away every year by using cheaper tooling?
Amortized over the rest of your shooting life, the 1050 is cheap in the long run.
Click to expand...
I dont see the 650 as cheaper tooling. The 1050 is harder/more expensive to change calibers, and the swaging has to be adjusted for every headstamp.
The 1050 is best suited to mass production of a single headstamp calibre.
The 650 is easier and cheaper to accomodate different calibers.

If I was doing tens of thousands of rounds of a single caliber, maybe I would get a 1050.
But to do the occasional few hundred rounds of mixed calibers, (even if you are doing 1000), what's the point of the 1050 over the 650? It costs like twice per caliber change. I don't see the advantage, really (or I would want one), and it seems that really, I dont see it. The 650 is more versatile, does everything (but the swage), and is cheaper.

Why get a 1050 then, unless you want to mass reload all mil-crimped new brass 223?

Really, I don't see the advantage with the 1050. It costs more, and caliber changes costs alot more, and then?
 
Kryogen said:
Why get a 1050 then, unless you want to mass reload all mil-crimped new brass 223?

Really, I don't see the advantage with the 1050. It costs more, and caliber changes costs alot more, and then?
Click to expand...

If you are loading just a few hundred rounds of mixed calibers, how much are you shooting, and is reloading worth the cost of any tooling?

As for 650 / 1050 cost vs. utility;

If you never load ammo that might have crimped primers
If you never find yourself with high or munched primers / rings left in the pocket
If you never need to adjust the primer seating depth
Then maybe the 650 is the better buy for you.

Eventually I'm going to find a 1050 owner who thinks he's overspent.
 
Opcx6 said:
What is your time worth? Far better to spend trigger time than at the loading bench if your aim is to be the best shooter you can be.
Click to expand...
Honestly, I enjoy reloading as much as shooting. If your time is worth that much, and you hate reloading, buy factory ammo.... see my point.
 
Antoine22 said:
If you plan to reload more than 2,000 rounds per year, there's only 1 choice, the Super 1050.
Click to expand...

Really? I load more than that on a Lee turret press and don't find that to be very time consuming at all. 2000 rounds on a 1050 would take maybe 6-8 hours at most if you factor in looking at all the brass beforehand. You would really spend that much money on a press to save a few hours per year? My breakpoint for that kind of money would be more like 1000+ rounds per month and even at that a 650XL with case feeder would probably be my choice.


Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom