Three SVT 40 Scope mount options.

Possibly, will decide once I get my hands on it . I was thinking silver solder
might work and not be so permanent.
 
lyman said:
I hand loaded a few cases, but found that the SVT 40 was very hard on brass due the the chamber fluting. Since then I discovered that Bulgarian circle 10 surplus 150 grain shoots absolutely fan####intastic, so I have no need to reload.
Click to expand...

Cheers. I was wondering about the effect on brass. I was going to try cast in it, which are lower pressure loads to begin with and create less case expansion.
 
Mark-II said:
Cheers. I was wondering about the effect on brass. I was going to try cast in it, which are lower pressure loads to begin with and create less case expansion.
Click to expand...

You may run into cycling problems with low pressure loads. Try some circle 10.
 
the solder could be reheated to be removed and a replacement stock could be used .
But if I do weld or solder a mount on I wont be removing it anyway.
How did u align your mount before you welded it on?
Did you just align it with the top of the receiver or use a lazer bore sight?
Do the posp scopes have a lot of adjustment to compensate for mount misalignment?
Sorry for so many questions but I don't have the parts in hand so I don't know, and I've been waiting along time.
 
WFO said:
the solder could be reheated to be removed and a replacement stock could be used .
But if I do weld or solder a mount on I wont be removing it anyway.
How did u align your mount before you welded it on?
Did you just align it with the top of the receiver or use a lazer bore sight?
Do the posp scopes have a lot of adjustment to compensate for mount misalignment?
Sorry for so many questions but I don't have the parts in hand so I don't know, and I've been waiting along time.
Click to expand...

Silver soldering requires extreme heat, it is useful for small parts. I would not advise trying it.

The first thing to do is to grind the entire top of the rail at a 45 degree angle, and 1/4" in the center at either end. It would be a good idea at this stage to weld up the screw holes in the rail.

Clamp the rail to the receiver using a vise grip.

The rail sits flush with the top of the receiver, use a set square to make certain it is aligned properly.

Spot weld either end of the rail to the receiver.

Remove the vise grip and weld all along the top and underneath of the rail, then clean up.

Follow the instructions above and you should be fine with your POSP.
In the unlikely event that you run out of adjustment, all is not lost as you can shim the POSP mount.
 
Silver solder melts at a lower temperature than steel but would involve a larger area all at once compared to
welding. Did you get any warping from welding your mount on ? How was your point of aim/impact using the
top of the receiver as a guide?
 
WFO said:
Silver solder melts at a lower temperature than steel but would involve a larger area all at once compared to
welding.
Click to expand...
How are you going to heat the receiver and rail to the required temperature without the barrel acting as a heat sink ?


WFO said:
Did you get any warping from welding your mount on ?
Click to expand...

No

WFO said:
How was your point of aim/impact using the
top of the receiver as a guide?
Click to expand...

It was perfect.
 
Another option with a rare mount.

SVT40+scope+n+mount.jpg
 
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