The nearly perfect safari rifle
- Thread starter zebra26
- Start date
Finger Toes
Regular
- Location
- Yellowhead County
lost me at Remington
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nowhere, ......just past the middle
Finger Toes
Regular
- Location
- Yellowhead County
Just another guy that thinks his custom abomination is the best because he thought of it......been there myself.
I don't get why he didn't just start with a push feed Winchester M70. Replaced the Rem Bolt with a Mauser, stuck on a 3 position safety, new bbl and got rid of the Rem trigger? WTF did you need the Remington for?
I don't get why he didn't just start with a push feed Winchester M70. Replaced the Rem Bolt with a Mauser, stuck on a 3 position safety, new bbl and got rid of the Rem trigger? WTF did you need the Remington for?
Finger Toes
Regular
- Location
- Yellowhead County
lol S1de8urnz
Reminds me of the 24 piece set!
Reminds me of the 24 piece set!
BeaverMeat
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nanaimo, B.C.
Remington action for a safari rifle? I am no pro, but isn't CRF a necessity when going on safari? Someone must have gotten a kickback from Remington.
Duh, dur, Nearly watchable interview, by the way.
Duh, dur, Nearly watchable interview, by the way.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I thought it was an interesting video, which approached the problem from a different direction than I might have. An ADL 700 presents a problem for me in that you would have to take the rifle apart to clear a jam, rather than pop open a floor plate to resolve the problem. To me a dedicated safari rifle should have a drop belly magazine, as a few extra rounds can be comforting. The 3 position safety and extended bolt handle made me smile, it was if his desire to make his safari rifle look like a M-70 Winchester was so overwhelming that little remains of the original M-700. With respect to push feed vs CRF, I own both, I like both, and should either fail to work, it needs to be fixed.
I thought reinforcing the forend and wrist of the stock was a good idea, and I've considered something similar for my M-70 .458. But the steel rod in the forend isn't the way I'd have gone, rather I'm planning to cut a wide groove in the barrel channel and simply fill it with AccraGlass . . . once I work up the nerve to actually do it. I like that the swivel studs are attached with too screws rather than thread-in studs, which I've resorted to glass bedding in place. The other issue related to the stock for me is the height of the comb. Obviously its made to center the shooter's eye with the scope, which is fine if the scope is the only sighting device, but should the irons have to be used, it would be nearly impossible to mash you cheek down hard enough on the comb to acquire a sight picture. A very hard cheek weld on a hard kicking rifle has to be experienced to be appreciated. For me the height of the comb has to be a compromise between providing an index for using both the scope and irons, otherwise the shooter must decide the rifle will be scope only or irons only.
If the stock fits me correctly, I don't want the ocular of the scope extending behind the rear edge of the cocking piece. His must have extended 2" behind, which would guarantee me a cut. The only solution I can see for a scope with such a long eye piece is to use a Picitinny rail base. Upgrading to #8 screws isn't a bad idea.
Then comes the question of barrel contour and length. If the barrel has too light a contour and is too short, the result is a clubby feeling rifle. I like shorter barrels myself, so the contour of my barrels must be slightly heavier to keep the balance slightly forward. It seems that for his tastes he got the contour-length thing about right.
As for all the window dressing, like the gold trigger, the ebony forend tip, the match grade barrel, the blue printed action, and so on, it ts all fine if you have the money to spend on it, but it does nothing to make the rifle a better big game rifle. Provided the action runs smooth enough to cycle when operated from the shoulder, all is good, otherwise it requires some attention. If I was looking for a trigger upgrade from factory, I would consider a two stage trigger from Huber Systems.
I thought reinforcing the forend and wrist of the stock was a good idea, and I've considered something similar for my M-70 .458. But the steel rod in the forend isn't the way I'd have gone, rather I'm planning to cut a wide groove in the barrel channel and simply fill it with AccraGlass . . . once I work up the nerve to actually do it. I like that the swivel studs are attached with too screws rather than thread-in studs, which I've resorted to glass bedding in place. The other issue related to the stock for me is the height of the comb. Obviously its made to center the shooter's eye with the scope, which is fine if the scope is the only sighting device, but should the irons have to be used, it would be nearly impossible to mash you cheek down hard enough on the comb to acquire a sight picture. A very hard cheek weld on a hard kicking rifle has to be experienced to be appreciated. For me the height of the comb has to be a compromise between providing an index for using both the scope and irons, otherwise the shooter must decide the rifle will be scope only or irons only.
If the stock fits me correctly, I don't want the ocular of the scope extending behind the rear edge of the cocking piece. His must have extended 2" behind, which would guarantee me a cut. The only solution I can see for a scope with such a long eye piece is to use a Picitinny rail base. Upgrading to #8 screws isn't a bad idea.
Then comes the question of barrel contour and length. If the barrel has too light a contour and is too short, the result is a clubby feeling rifle. I like shorter barrels myself, so the contour of my barrels must be slightly heavier to keep the balance slightly forward. It seems that for his tastes he got the contour-length thing about right.
As for all the window dressing, like the gold trigger, the ebony forend tip, the match grade barrel, the blue printed action, and so on, it ts all fine if you have the money to spend on it, but it does nothing to make the rifle a better big game rifle. Provided the action runs smooth enough to cycle when operated from the shoulder, all is good, otherwise it requires some attention. If I was looking for a trigger upgrade from factory, I would consider a two stage trigger from Huber Systems.
- Location
- Southern Vancouver Island
I've not had any problems with my push-feed rifles. My .458 BSA cycles great, my previous Remington .458 Safari from the early 80's functioned just as well. These along with my .458 Mauser 98 & P14 Enfield CRF sporters worked fine for all the loads I tuned them for.
It's all a matter of knowing your rifle, tuning & maintaining your rifle & most importantly, not expecting too much from your rifle and ammo.
And yes, plenty of happy hunters have had good success with M700's in Africa.
The push-feed vs CRF is crap to me.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I believe he said it was 24" although the short forend makes it look long.
BeaverMeat
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nanaimo, B.C.
I am in no way insinuating push-feed vs. CRF. Just saying there is a reason for CRF on safari.
I have the old Browning FN/Sako 98 style rifles in 375 H&H and 458 Winchester. l got the 458 from a guy in Montreal who shot stuff with it for many years. In a moment of madness he sold off some of his Browning's. He went direct to Browning in Montreal
to select the wood and finish. The rifle is a real cherry. I got two 375's the same way. They are excellent guns for BC shooting.
to select the wood and finish. The rifle is a real cherry. I got two 375's the same way. They are excellent guns for BC shooting.
