Savage 10TR le/military
- Thread starter damullet
- Start date
I'm hearing more than a few grips about the bolt not being as smooth as other Savage 10 models. Anyone else having this problem?
They can purchase as many as the retailer is willing to sell them. As for sense of honour, there were more than a couple bought and immediately sold for profit on these very forums
They can purchase as many as the retailer is willing to sell them. As for sense of honour, there were more than a couple bought and immediately sold for profit on these very forums
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I'm one of those who is unimpressed. If there is something I can do that requires little effort, I will fix the problem myself, but I refuse to believe that this is the kind of quality we should be expecting - even if it's only $600. This is being advertised as a quality rifle at a discounted price for LEO and military. It feels more like a bargain bin rifle at a premium.
I'll wait to see what others' experiences are and I'll give mine a few cycles and a cleaning; but I'm not expecting much. I might have to return or sell it if there's nothing to be done about the bolt slop.
I'll wait to see what others' experiences are and I'll give mine a few cycles and a cleaning; but I'm not expecting much. I might have to return or sell it if there's nothing to be done about the bolt slop.
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
I wonder if the bolt feels a bit sloppy because of the HUGE handle on the bolt. You know... the inertia/Newtons Law thing....
Just picked mine up at the Post Office today. I won't get a chance to open it till I get home and it's just killing me!!!!!!!!!!! Sure would have been nice if they engraved a little maple leaf on the receiver like the old FN-C1.
Bought a Mossberg Night Train a month ago and this one HAS to be better than that, although the thing shoots pretty derned good. I was able to maintain just a pube over 1" with untailored hand loads.
Anyways, keep the comments coming!
- Location
- Richmond, BC
Thanks for the review. Nice shooting. Subtract 0.308" (bullet diameter) from your group measurements for your final group size. Congrats, you're shooting sub-MOA (0.692" MOA) with an out of the box rifle using factory ammo. Things can only get better (and cheaper) with tweaked handloads.
I'm no pro F-class shooter so take my advice with a grain of salt. A few things that could cause stray shots could be possible flex in the stock making contact with the barrel. You can try and pre-load your bipod or shoot off a rest closer to the middle of the rifle. The more costly remedy would be to bed the stock or upgrade it to a higher quality one. Rifle shake caused by unsteady shoulder anchor. Try using a squeeze bag (there's a CNGer, skullboy ??, who sells great ones for around $30) under your buttstock to adjust the alignment. Improper comb/cheek rest height on rifle stock in comparison to your scope height (in this case, your scope is mounted pretty high above the bore) could make for a bad cheek (or chin) anchor point to help index your setup. Look at installing an adjustable cheek rest like a Tac Pro or on the strap-on ones so you can get a proper cheek weld. No option to adjust for cant. Look at mounting a bubble level to your scope making sure that it is square to your reticle. Adjustment for parallax. Check your focus/parallax by moving your head side to side or up and down and check if the crosshair is floating around the area of the target. If so, adjust it so that the crosshair is fixed. Don't always rely on the markings on the parallax dial.
I could be talking out of my arse so I'm sure the seasoned long range shooters would correct me.
Thanks for the tips, there’s a lot to remember and I guess a lot of repetition and practice ahead of me before I develop some muscle memory and start getting some consistency.
The stock for the 10TR is a bit softer than my 700 Police, so when I squeeze the stock against the barrel, it flexes more than the 700, and I am able to flex the Accustock enough to touch the barrel. I understand that it free floats the barrel, but there is still the chance of contact on firing.
I also pre-load the bipod, but the surface of the wood bench is smooth, so the rubber pads of the bipod feet don’t grab it so well. There’s also patches of carpet I see people resting their bipods on. The underpad of the carpet is rubber, but if the surface of the wood is dusty, then it doesn’t grab so well. Either way, sometimes the bipod slips a bit. I might try wiping the surface next time, see if I can clean the dust off. I know this would be less of a problem in prone, if the bipod is buried in the dirt, but at the bench, I’ll try to clean the surface, get a better grip, or maybe just rest the front on a sandbag. I know that pre-loading the bipod has a great effect, as long as the bipod doesn’t slip.
The 10TR has the Accustock, which free floats the barrel, but also has an aluminum bedding block that covers the entire area of the action. Would I have to re-bed it on top of the aluminum bedding block?
For the shoulder rest, I have the butt stock resting on a small sandbag, but I also try to pull the stock into my shoulder pocket (at the same time as loading the bipod...which is a concept I’m still trying to master). I’ve been looking into a squeeze bag and was thinking about making one.
I think I might need to fine tune the cheek rest, as well as length of pull, and also eye relief. I’m not sure I have the best set up yet, so I’ll tinker around with that. I might get the Tac Pro for my Remington (keeping the HS Precision stock because it feels right), but I’ve gone ahead and ordered a chassis system for the 10TR. I know, I know, what’s a noob doing ordering a chassis system when he can barely shoot the factory stock. I dunno, I don’t have a good reason other than I want it, it’s got some nice features as far as adjusting the comb and LOP, and besides that, I had a couple of extra pistols I had lying around so I flipped them to get the chassis.
I saw those bubble levellers. I was thinking if I should get one or not, maybe I’ll look into it.
Adjusting parallax is something I also tried. I have really, really $hitty eyes. Can you completely eliminate the float of the crosshair or is there always going to be a bit of float? I have to admit, I don’t pay as much attention to the dials as I should, and I’ve always adjusted the elevation, windage and parallax, as well as the fast focus for the eyepiece just by looking through the scope and turn the knobs until it’s clear.
Anyway, I think I’ve gobbed off enough for now, but thanks for all the tips! It’s good to know what sort of things are really important to work on and continue to improve those fundamentals.
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CreamySmooth
CGN frequent flyer
I can't believe anyone would complain about this rifle compared to a Remington... Blows me away. For 599 the 10 action is far sturdier, the barrels and 5R rifling are very well made compared to any Remington barrel in this price range, and the Accutrigger itself is reason to skip a Remington altogether.....
Anyway, off my complaining and to my real point of posting.
Guys... When you get these guns, if you haven't done it or haven't thought of it.... Remove the mounting rails and remount them. After you purchase a few Savages you realize that their factory "mounting" means taking the bulk purchased grease packed metal parts and mounting them without cleaning.... At least that's the only thing I can figure Savage does. Once you lift the rail, you'll find enough grease under there to realize that you do not have a good mount. Having the mount sitting on what amounts to a floating surface I would imagine is bad for accuracy, and transmits all the recoils force into the screws on firing, where you should have the rail to barrel friction contact absorbing a good portion of the recoil. I have found in my time shooting rifles, that many guys have blamed a rifle that came out of a box "factory mounted" for poor accuracy. I have now remounted three 10 TRs and all have had this copious grease amount under the rails, and in the screw holes. Degrease everything. Just some advice, and while some will do this as a matter of course, many don't. So I'm just throwing it out there. If you ever buy a savage package deal.... Remount everything!!
Love, Peace and Bannock Grease!
Anyway, off my complaining and to my real point of posting.
Guys... When you get these guns, if you haven't done it or haven't thought of it.... Remove the mounting rails and remount them. After you purchase a few Savages you realize that their factory "mounting" means taking the bulk purchased grease packed metal parts and mounting them without cleaning.... At least that's the only thing I can figure Savage does. Once you lift the rail, you'll find enough grease under there to realize that you do not have a good mount. Having the mount sitting on what amounts to a floating surface I would imagine is bad for accuracy, and transmits all the recoils force into the screws on firing, where you should have the rail to barrel friction contact absorbing a good portion of the recoil. I have found in my time shooting rifles, that many guys have blamed a rifle that came out of a box "factory mounted" for poor accuracy. I have now remounted three 10 TRs and all have had this copious grease amount under the rails, and in the screw holes. Degrease everything. Just some advice, and while some will do this as a matter of course, many don't. So I'm just throwing it out there. If you ever buy a savage package deal.... Remount everything!!
Love, Peace and Bannock Grease!
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Nice report and great shooting.
Next time you go to the range, try this:
Look at a bright subject with your scope, like the sky. Adjust the occular lens (the one you look into, usually marked +1 0 -1), until the reticle is sharp. Take your time, look at all the details.
Look away from the scope for 20-30 seconds, when you look at scope reticle again, you should NOT have to force
your eyes to get a perfect reticle focus. If you do, try again.
Once your reticle is perfect, lock the ocular lens (if your scope has a lock ring, some dont).
Most scopes will focus the subject (target) on to the reticle, if your reticle is in focus, all you have to
worry about is the subject (the subject is focused with the front or side focus ring, also called parallax)
I'm old and need to use reading glasses, when occular is adjusted properly, I dont need them to shoot.
Cheers
EDIT: Floating and wondering, wavy reticle/subject could be mirage, caused by the heat from your barrel or heat rising
from the ground.
Good info, thanks, do you recommend bedding the rifle, I ask because Jerry at Mystic said it is still a good Idea?
Cheers Bob
It was suggested that we post discussions here instead of on the sponsors thread I agree,so I am relocating my question!
Does anyone have both the Savage 10-tr and the rem 700 le of a similar style? If you have used both can you give a side by side comparison as to quality , accuracy, bang for the buck, so to speak? Just wondering seeing as Savage put this out there at a good price for LE/ Military folk to try it and compare! I am sure Savage are thinking they either have a better rifle for the same or cheaper price so I am wondering, do they and why? Cheers.,
OK Adding another question because I don't think anyone is far enough into their new 10-TR to compare the 700, but when you do and if you can find someone with a savage axis and do a comparison? Using the same scope and ammo Just to see how much, if any difference there is in accuracy? I am hoping there is a noticeable difference although I understand the price/accuracy line is not straight but a fairly sharp curve as you get more and more accurate! Just wondering while I wait. If no one else can then I will but it will be months before Mine is ready for something like that!
Does anyone have both the Savage 10-tr and the rem 700 le of a similar style? If you have used both can you give a side by side comparison as to quality , accuracy, bang for the buck, so to speak? Just wondering seeing as Savage put this out there at a good price for LE/ Military folk to try it and compare! I am sure Savage are thinking they either have a better rifle for the same or cheaper price so I am wondering, do they and why? Cheers.,
OK Adding another question because I don't think anyone is far enough into their new 10-TR to compare the 700, but when you do and if you can find someone with a savage axis and do a comparison? Using the same scope and ammo Just to see how much, if any difference there is in accuracy? I am hoping there is a noticeable difference although I understand the price/accuracy line is not straight but a fairly sharp curve as you get more and more accurate! Just wondering while I wait. If no one else can then I will but it will be months before Mine is ready for something like that!
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- Location
- Richmond, BC
I definitely will, thanks! I love all these great tips, so much to learn, so little time and money to practice, hahah!
Last night I pulled the TR apart and messed around with the trigger. It was a pretty light pull from the factory, so last night I adjusted the Accutrigger to the lightest setting and see if I jerk any shots the next tiem I’m at the range.
I lightened the pull on my 700P as well, which was just as easy. As far as comparing the 10TR to the 700P, I hope I didn’t come across as trying to prove one was better than the other. The Remington was my first bolt-action rifle. The wife bought it for me for Christmas and I’ve only taken it to the range once before I took the Savage.
The only reason I brought it up was because it was the only bolt action I’ve had experience with and the only thing I had to compare to. I’m very inexperienced when it comes to these rifles, so I just notated the differences I observed. I’ve probably got years ahead of me before I can start talking about which rifle is better, and I certainly didn’t want to start a debate over that here.
The Accutrigger may become unreliable under 2lbs. Not enough spring pressure to properly engage the sear when you close the bolt. It's one of those things that shows up on some rifles and not others. Just take your tools with you, so you can increase it a little if it happens. Have fun
It is still a good idea to bed any action to its stock. You don't need to go deep on an accustock rifle, think of it as more adding contact area between the action and stock to prevent any possible movement. Lightly rough up the bedding block and give a light skim coat of bedding compound. It is super easy to do and some very good instructional videos do exist on Youtube. I always do the same with my one piece scope rails while bedding the rifle, bedding compound is already mixed so might as well.
One thing I learned as a newb was to set everything up so I was as comfortable as possible in my shooting position (be it prone, sitting, what have you). In order to set up Parallax the scope has to be the right distance from your eye, the right height and level. Spending the extra time to get your position as dialed in as possible will reduce shooter fatigue. You should be able to get into your position, put your reticle on target, close your eyes and sit for 20-30 seconds without needing to re-adjust or get out of position because of comfort issues. You should literally be able to nap on the gun while on target. Get some sand bags, airsoft BB filled socks, or whatever, to support the rear of the rifle, elbows, chest, or where ever you need support to be comfortable and shoot. If it doesn't feel natural, you won't shoot your best. This part is where its ok to be a Diva.
- Location
- Richmond, BC
The Accutrigger may become unreliable under 2lbs. Not enough spring pressure to properly engage the sear when you close the bolt. It's one of those things that shows up on some rifles and not others. Just take your tools with you, so you can increase it a little if it happens. Have fun
Hey thanks for that, something I never would have thought about. I dry-fired it about half a dozen times last night just to test the function, and it seemed ok, but things could change at the range. I'll make sure to bring some tools.
Haha, I like the bit about being a diva, never heard anyone put it that way, but it makes total sense.
CreamySmooth
CGN frequent flyer
The Accutrigger is designed to be user setable in a specific range. You aren't supposed to be able to go low enough to cause problems. If you can crank it there with the little yellow wrench they send, it's supposed to be safe. I don't believe the regular Accutrigger will go to 2 pounds. The Target Accutrigger goes to 6oz and is absolutely amazing for a factory trigger.
I planned on buying my scope and bipod mid feb to spread out the big money dumps, but I have had the 10TR for over a week now and got impatient
Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP, bipod, rings and some cleaning supplies are in the mail! CP tracking says I will have them mid next week, just in time to get out to the range!
Gonna be stuck with factory rounds for now, but I plan on starting to reload in a few months.
This is going to be my introduction to precision shooting, I am very excited to get started.
Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP, bipod, rings and some cleaning supplies are in the mail! CP tracking says I will have them mid next week, just in time to get out to the range!
Gonna be stuck with factory rounds for now, but I plan on starting to reload in a few months.
This is going to be my introduction to precision shooting, I am very excited to get started.
Auto parts store. Get Devcon, some duct tape, modeling clay and Pam spray.
The standard Accutrigger (silver blade) found on Model 10's will definitely go below 2 lbs. The design range is 1.5 - 6. I know what it's supposed to do, but many people find that the sear won't hold when closing the bolt at the lower end of the range. I've seen several rifles do this, including one of mine. 2 lbs seems to be the sweet spot. I can't speak to what your experience has been, but my original post was to simply warn that it's a possibility.
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