LCW 7.62x39 Nail Test

Fascinating the amount of advice that has been given by apparently folks that have NOT read the thread.

NO gun was harmed in this experiment. Likely no contamination either as we expect after bullet pulling the OP did NOT stick anything inside the casing.

OP> If you did for sadism reasons stick something into the empty casing please don't post extensively about it. Aren't you glad you started this helpful thread :jerkit:


PS, got my ship notice for FMJ, hope to get off my sorry bass to join the testing. Dip the nail in gasoline to sanitize, don't breath on brass, shoot with clean gun, did I miss anything :dancingbanana:
mobusten said:
As I stated before, it was S&B, then LCW, then Chinese, and there was no gun involved, so there's no bore for any particles to be "blown out" of.
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I think to clear up confusion, I'm going to begin another test tomorrow with only one LCW, and one S&B, no Chinese. To rule out any sort of cross contamination concerns. As we can plainly see the S&B is obviously not the culprit, so it will hopefully be a little more satisfactory for everyone.
 
More people here need to do their own test instead of everyone just talking about it. The more tests the better.

I'm going to be doing it, and hopefully post the results. I'll be using a brass case with a CCI 200 LR primer, a "Non Corrosive" Chinese 31/72, and the LCW. I just need to make sure I get some non-galvanized nails from the store.
 
This is awesome! And it does tell us "something" and as with all good science it should be tested and repeated.
 
Surprised how many nutters must luv to clean their guns. If some car fanatic insist their car needs to be clean after use otherwise they are lazy I'd tell them they are crazy. Cars and guns are tools to serve me and not the other way around.

When the grouping starts to wander it is time to clean, I like shooting, I like eating, don't like cleaning guns nor dishes (thank you dishwasher, wish there was a gunwasher).
 
burnaby said:
When the grouping starts to wander it is time to clean, I like shooting, I like eating, don't like cleaning guns nor dishes (thank you dishwasher, wish there was a gunwasher).
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There was once. Didnt end well...
 
My Understanding of the situation was that even though these primers are called "corrosive" they are are themselves not directly responsible for the corrosion The byproduct of the chemical reaction is a salt (Potassium Chlorate). This salt is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture out of the air, and it is the combination of salt and water and oxygen from the air which rusts exposed steel.

basic_drill said:
Corrosive vs non-corrosive, the truth is all primers are corrosive to some degree. Primers are a "high-order" explosive, which are a product of acids. Yes they generally neutralize any acidity to some degree, but that can be expensive. So, a certain degree of neutralization is regarded as "good enough." Totally neutral is measured at 7.0000 pH. 6.9995pH would be acidic, and most people would call that 7.0 and be done with it, but it isn't 7.00000. Would it be sincere to call that acidic? Probably not. 6.5 is slightly acidic, and in terms of ammunition primer, it may even get away with being called non-corrosive.

I would like to see pH results. Take 10 of each type (3 brands) and then have a fourth as unfired brass for your control. Pop the primers in a safety rig of some sort in a well-ventilated area. So there are now 40 cases to test. Get some distilled water, and measure out exactly enough to fill each case, and allow them to sit and absorb any residues. Then measure each one with pH paper. Litmus is a type of indicator that would give you a general idea of the pH (1.0 to 14.0) but there are better indicators that will do 5.5 to 8.0 range only (for example), and give a better degree of accuracy.

This should prove what is truly "non-corrosive."
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KISS method:
pew, pew, pew, gun rust :(, corrosive
pew, pew, pew, gun NO rust :), non-corrosive.
 
8mmpeter said:
Whats the word? Ready to orcder a case, but not if it is corrosive. Any final results?
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Well the LCW nail is for sure rusted from my first test. But I plan to do another one right away, so I wouldn't write off LCW as corrosive just yet. The results should be repeatable for it to be conclusive in my opinion.
There's always a chance I screwed up somehow. So let's just wait and see! :)
 
Plasticman said:
great test!
Are all S&B crates non-corrosive? i have some and im still pouring windex down my barrel after im done lol.
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No no no no! The crates of Czech surplus are surely corrosive. The S&B that I used is newly manufactured brass cased soft point rounds. Those are the non-corrosive ones. I wouldn't try letting your gun sit after a crate of their surplus stuff.
 
An alternate method would be to check whether or not the primers contain potassium chlorate which is a usual ingredient of corrosive primers. One of you guys who has access to a chem lab and the necessary smarts could take a sample of the residue left by the 'fired' primer and have it analyzed for the presence of potassium, quantity not important, just whether or not it's there. If it is, we have corrosive primers.

Perhaps this is a test that Can Ammo is, or should be, doing.

As you all know, it is the potassium chloride from a fired corrosive type primer which combines with moisture to potentially wreck the innards of a firearm.
 
Brian46 said:
why are the hollow point LCW 349 online and I just seen Can Am is selling it at a local gun show for $300 a case?
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I asked to price match the HP for $299 with the FMJ. I would have bought 2 cases of HP non-corrosive at $299. Got lucky on that one! Thats all I need is more corrosive ammo???
 
$300 is too much if it is corrosive but a retailer with different prices advertised for the same product is a totally different problem
 
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