Pietta metal 50-round drum mag for PPS-50, how to load

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baD mR fRosTy

CGN frequent flyer
Location
South Shore, Nova Scotia
I recently received my 50-round metal drum mag from Marstar - came fast/packed well.

I had read some mediocre reviews on it, and although the rifle works great with the stick, I was unsure if the drum would work as well.

I recommend everyone go to Youtube and seek out the video "how to load PPS-50 drum mag with no failures".

I used that guy's method, which is a little different (OK, a lot different) than using the tool, and had ZERO failures the very first time I tried the mag, which was today. Of course, as I always do, I "excercised" the mag spring by letting it sit full for a couple days first.

Great rifle/great drum mag...
 
I load and unload a new magazine 4-5 times before I go shooting just to break them in , during production you get excess polymer or welds or ragged edges on some of the seams that need to be worn down by loading and unloading. I've also given them a little bit of dry graphite to ease the break in period .
 
I would shoot mine. can't find high velocity federal or anything. I use the tool to load mine. The only FTE is me. when shooting fast I don't let the trigger go all the way forward. Love shooting it with drum mag, specially the kids. What works that is standard velocity?
 
With my stick mag, my PPS eats almost everything over 1050 fps.
I have only tried the Winchester HV so far in the drum.

I have a lot of .22 brands, I'll try some others this week, including Win 555/333, Federal, Blazers.

I know my manual says "over 1350 fps only", but that's crazy...not much to choose from there! I think it's some kind of disclaimer, I find it odd.

And the drum mag booklet has a pic of a lead round with "ribbing" and it says to avoid...what round do they mean I wonder? They all seem to have a bit of "ribbing" (??).
 
Ernst said:
I load and unload a new magazine 4-5 times before I go shooting just to break them in , during production you get excess polymer or welds or ragged edges on some of the seams that need to be worn down by loading and unloading. I've also given them a little bit of dry graphite to ease the break in period .
Click to expand...

Great idea - I think there's be wayyy fewer gripes if folks did that.
 
My brother has one that gave us a lot of teething problems , the rifling in the barrel seems very " sharp " ( for lack of a better word ) and it seemed to atract a lot of lead build up, to the point that it was causing accuracy issues . We scrubbed the holy crap out of the barrel and were amazed by the amount of lead left in the barrel , giant flakes were raining out of it ! I know everyone recommends you try all kinds of high and low velocity to find out what kind of ammo works best in your gun and it's not bad advice but .... I will say don't run hollow points I'm pretty sure this is what caused all the lead build up in the barrel . We only use a high velocity rounds and it ran like a charm after we broke in the drum mag as described in post #4 , all fifty shots with no failure to fire and spot on accuracy ! Yay we won (or so we thought ) so my brother decides he's going to order the tacticool puma stock and a vortex diamond back scope for it , he then builds it and we finally get some time off together and go shooting , it fired 4-5 rounds then the spring guide rods in the action broke ! Wtf ! Anyway one quick call to marstars and the new parts were in the mail and she's up and running again , but I believe this is what happens when you run the high velocity rounds . This is just a theory but I think you should use the high velocity stuff for break in 750-1000 rounds or so then start running lower and lower velocity till you get some issues then go up a little till it runs nicely , this way you'll get a lot better longevity out of the internals of your firearm . A little long winded but I hope it helps you guys because I really do like this gun and once you work this annoying little stuff out I think you'll like it to , good luck Ernst
 
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