Last edited by chalkriver; 09-16-2014 at 03:51 PM.
The bedding end result is the same regardless of stock. A mirror image of your barreled action. Action level and unstressed with the action bolts are snug.
I like to support under the barrel nut and completely hold the recoil lug in place.
Jerry
A new toy for 27-28?
Thanks Jerry . And SG, I will be using the LSS this year as I haven't load tested the Savage yet .. Next years rifle though .....I should have the stock on the 25th and a certain teacher of the tactical variety is showing me how to bed it on the 26th Are you coming up ??
Make sure you DON'T BED THE TANG OF THE RECEIVER (where the safety is)!!! I made this mistake when I first bedded my Savage and accuracy was terrible until I relieved this area and made sure I could insert a sheet of paper between the stock and the tang. The advice I got was to make sure that only the back surface of the recoil lug, which takes the recoil impact, and to leave the sides and front surfaces cleared.
Again, don't bed the very back of the receiver like I did.
Tony.
Bedding the rear tang has never affected my results. An action that is level and unstressed doesn't care if the last 1/4" is bedded.
leaving gaps around the recoil lug may not be ideal... Yes, I know there are a variety of opinions on this. I believe that if a part can move, it will. The recoil lug controls all recoil forces and if it can wiggle around, its benefit is compromised.
Right, wrong... that's how I do things... More work, I feel better results.
Jerry
Yes, I have been given the green light by she who shall be obeyed and will be up to provide support where and when required (TT's beeyotch). You can check out my Savage bedding job up close to see where all the goop needs to go, not that TonyBen's pics aren't excellent. I also have a crapload of that special Team ammo that TT loves so much to bring up and shoot.
I've always wondered about this. I know the recommendation of many is to bed the forward face of the recoil lug with a layer of masking tape to facilitate easy removal of the action and barrel before the bedding has fully cured, but would the pocket in the bedding around the recoil lug not "loosen" up over time anyway, creating too much wiggle room?
I can only speak from my one personal experience. YMMV...
I was getting 2.25" at 100 yds with the full receiver bedding. After I cleared the tang of the receiver, I shot one round at 12 o'clock high on a cold bore and the next 3 shots clover leafed at 100. My 200yd 5-shot groups were around 2".
Good luck either way you choose. I'm in the process of overhauling my Savage anyways and that old cheap wood stock will be shelved as well as the barrel.
Tony.
If the bedding is done properly, it will take alot of shooting to wear it out. My FTR rifles digest on average 3 to 5K rds per season... so far, bedding is tight, solid and accuracy superb. I haven't needed to redo any of these bedding.
Consider that when a gun goes off, there is alot of very high frequency vibration. If there is a chance for the recoil lug to move, it will. Which negates the point of it being there in the first place. Eventually, the action locks up against the next solid item. In many cases that is the action bolt. Problem, action bolts are not very strong and certainly not designed as a stress member.
We have taken rifles apart to find action bolts that were bent. In alum pillars or bedding, you can see the threads hammered into the holes. Neither is good.
So my method is to have an interference fit around the recoil lug and the action level and properly supported. Seems to work.
Jerry