Congratulations on taking all the steps to reloading so quickly - welcome to the shooting sports!
The reasons ranges don't like steel ammo are that it's murder on steel silhouettes - goes right through at fairly low loadings, so you know it's likely also playing hob with the backstop plates as well - and it ricochets like it invented it.
If your pistol works with small-rifle primers, go ahead and keep using them; many pistols won't, they can't hit the primer hard enough to set it off. Small rifle primers are made tougher than small pistol primers to withstand the much higher pressures a rifle can handle, without perforating; no big deal if your Tokarev can use them, but if (when
- one pistol is never enough) you get another pistol, with a floating firing pin (i.e., the pin doesn't reach all the way from the hammer face to the primer, so if you drop it on the hammer, it won't go off), you'd best switch to small pistol primers to feed it - they all have the same stuff inside.
The sideways-bullet thang - it's called 'keyholing'; and it's caused by the bullet not spinning fast enough to stabilize. There're only two ways to spin the bullet faster - replace your barrel with one that has a tighter twist (impractical and expensive
), or push the bullet down the barrel faster; i.e., a touch more powder. I have a Browning Hi-Power that was shooting all over the map; yeah I hit the target, but that was about all I could say - then I noticed there'd usually be a couple rounds through the right side, that keyholed. I added literally, one-tenth of a grain - went from 3.2gr to 3.3gr of powder - and it quit keyholing and started shooting like a champ.
And why are you using 5.9gr powder when I'm only using 3.3gr? A different powder, obviously; and a story for another day. Good shooting!