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Thread: Can't get the Loadmaster i just bought from you folks to deprime?

  1. #11
    CGN Regular grimblyd's Avatar
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    Excellent. Thanks Redruns and T-star! I couldn't figure out how to post a picture, but if I had, you would see the brass with primer about half to 3/4 way out but still stuck. I think in hindsight my question to Ray (and CGN) should have been 'is the decap pin adjustable in length?'.
    I will adjust the pin length and be in business. I think the Dillon square deal B spoiled me. This reloader is much more hands on. I like that though as it forces me to learn instead of just pulling the handle like a trained monkey! haha!. It is my plan to expand in to reloading rifle shells with this press once my knowledge level becomes much higher.

    Really appreciate all the input folks. I'll make a quick post later if I am successful.

    And thanks Ray, sorry I probably should have posted this in the reload section. Will next time.

    Dan

  2. #12
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    I set my pin to the bottom of die- this something that is UNVERSAL to all die sets so whoever set the dies for your square deal was JUST PLAIN LUCKY or set it up BEFORE sending it out- I've decapped with nothing more than a finishing nail= as far as rile cartridges go MAKE SURE YOU LUBE FIRST- otherwise you'll be amongst the THOUSNADS with " shell stuck in die - ie how do I get it out

  3. #13
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Smcx's Avatar
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    I use the universal decapper. I deprime brass that hasn't been cleaned and isn't lubed. I ise carbide dies and don't lube my cases when reloading (pistol). I set my decapping pin depth just below the bottom of the die. Adjust until you get enough depth to fully push the primer out. Be careful of s&b 9mm. I've found that the flash holes are sometimes off center, which can lead to a bent decapping pin.

  4. #14
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    dnd brass too-undersize flasholes will pull the istol pin on a lee die right out- I put in a 223 decapper which is all one piece- but you're losing a space with the uniuversal decapper which in my opinion is GIMMICK

  5. #15
    CGN frequent flyer dakotamar's Avatar
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    I run a universal de-capper. all my dirty brass goes threw this first then it is cleaned.
    CSSA member since 2011. CCFR member since Apr. 2016
    check my Youtube videos out at http://www.youtube.com/user/dakotamar

  6. #16
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    Lee dies are designed with a split, tapered thread collet to hold the decapping pin. If it's loose, it will travel upward instead of pushing the primer out. It's designed that way to help prevent pin breakage.

  7. #17
    CGN Regular grimblyd's Avatar
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    Fixed. Did my first run, had a few issues, but got in to a bit of a rhythm and cranked out 143 rounds. Not terrible for a first run I think, it will get better now that I have everything set up.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimblyd View Post
    Fixed. Did my first run, had a few issues, but got in to a bit of a rhythm and cranked out 143 rounds. Not terrible for a first run I think, it will get better now that I have everything set up.
    Here's a tip. Buy a Lee universal decapping die (very cheap and NOT a gimmick) and put it in station one. Then put the carbide size die WITH THE DECAPPING ROD REMOVED in station two where the case is primed. The die does a good job of centering and holding the case firmly and eliminates a lot of the priming problems some people have with the Loadmaster. I did this and if you keep the priming tray and chute clean the system is very reliable.

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