Long term metal protection experiment follow up

[dirtybarry]

I use G 96 for a preservative and rust preventitive on all my guns, The method I use on a new gun is to apply a min of 4-5 coatings with a wipe down between coatings. After that just a one wipe down after using. Do the same for the bore as well using a boresnake. Sometimes bore will require 2-3 passes. In my opinion G 96 is a gunmans best friend and superior to other products!

It's what I use for cleaning my guns too, and we'll be finding out how it compares.

[dirtybarry]

The 3 main forms of rust (iron oxyde) are:
-Fe2O3, aka hematite, aka ferric oxide, aka iron-3 oxide: most common for of rust, that's the red dusty crap you don't want. With water it bonds to become Fe2O3(H2O) and ruins everything. Hydrated ferric oxide (Fe2O3(H2O)) is what's usually called "rust", or atleast the majority of the "rust".
-FeO, aka hematite, aka iron-2 oxide: not often seen naturally, you can produce it industrially. It's a black powder, not hard though.
-Fe3O4, aka iron-(2,3) oxide, aka magnetite, aka magnetic oxide, aka black oxide: That's probably the "black and hard" stuff you refer to. You obtain it by adding carbon monoxyde to ferric oxide. It's black due to a residue of carbon on the top layer. You can also obtain it by completely submerging iron in water, but then it'll constantly destroy and regenerate itself, destroying your iron in the process. It's somewhat protective, but nothing compared to the blueing of a gun. Normally you'd paint the black oxide to protect it. Plus, it won't undo the damages already done by rust, just stop it.

I wouldn't use a product that would turn ferric oxyde to black oxide on my firearm, even if it protects your iron strip. Chances are that it would ruin the blueing.

Thanks for the explanation. I've used various rust converters on rusty vehicle bodies but would never consider using it on guns hence my question.

[Chargerguy]

Check this link out. 46 products tested. Looking at this and some other tests between frog lube and WD-40 specialist, it looks like frog lube clp is tough to beat.

https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cl...valuation.html

[charlesquik]

Check this link out. 46 products tested. Looking at this and some other tests between frog lube and WD-40 specialist, it looks like frog lube clp is tough to beat.

https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cl...valuation.html

yeah saw that one before

Frog lube, hornandy one shot and wd 40 specialist are the winner

[dieseldog]

William Arms in Port Perry Ontario (on the net) usually stocks Cosmoline along with just about every other gun lube on the market---Dieseldog!

[Chargerguy]

yeah saw that one before

Frog lube, hornandy one shot and wd 40 specialist are the winner

one shot rusted up on one of the 2 boards.

[inthewoods]

one shot rusted up on one of the 2 boards.

Good find. The chart in that study is a little bit misleading, it ranks hornady one shot as good as the best, clearly the rusted metal in board 2 says otherwise.

[Rob!]

Any thoughts on atmosphere control? Instead of trying to remove all oxygen (good luck) maybe flood the bag with Nitrogen. Hard to oxydize in the abscence of oxygen.

[Hunter1970]

I have Eezox, Froglube, & some Fluid Film (I think), and can get them to you in Calgary if you still need them. Shoot me a PM if you want.

[LSB]

I have a spray can of Jig-A-Loo that I can lend you as a contribution to your efforts. I will drop it at Kate for you and pick it up later after your are done. THX

Dropped off the can at Kate's today.