Yes I agree, cut off the silly bits and make it fold...
And angle the top of the stock for a nicer cheek weld.
Looks good, make us proud Kiwi
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Yes I agree, cut off the silly bits and make it fold...
And angle the top of the stock for a nicer cheek weld.
Looks good, make us proud Kiwi
Someone stop the planet and let me off for awhile. I need a break from all this stupidity!!! - posted by Northern Amateur
So had my Wk out on Friday. Loved the rifle but I have an issue with the trigger. Not the “heavy” part I can deal with that but my hammer pin keeps waking out. The trigger pin is rock solid but the hammer pin I can easily push back and forth with little force. After only a few rounds the pin walks left to right. Even as I’m sitting here doing the “parachord trick” the pin walks out and I have to push it back in every 10-20 pulls of the trigger. I am somewhat familiar with the trigger design from my AR15s but have never taken one apart. Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m really not interested in any warranty claims if I can just deal with it myself as it’s probably an easy ish fix.
Green loctite will fill any void and prevent the pin from walking. You could also stake the pin but that would lead to accelerated wear if you were going to remove that pin regularly.
Thanks I might try the loctite idea. As a side note the hammer pin freely rotates as I work the hammer back an forth.
This does not happen on my ar15s I suspect is contributing to my problem.
The hammer pin is held captive by the J spring laying inside the middle detent of the pin. On mine I can move the hammer pin slightly back and forth but it does not come out unless I push it out with a punch.Originally Posted by Capt
Has the J spring inside the hammer popped out of the hammer pin detent, or is the J spring bent/broken and not holding properly? It is built into the hammer and you can see it by looking in the pin hole of the hammer and at the bottom end of the hammer.
If you look into the hammer pin hole in the hammer you can see the spring I am talking about. It is a non-servicable part so if there is a problem with it you would need a new hammer.
I would take the hammer out and put the pin in it outside the lower and see how well it holds.
Last edited by Paul_T; 08-26-2018 at 03:35 PM.
"No matter where you go - there you are"
Please check to see that the "J" spring is in the hammer. It sounds like this may be missing as this is what retains the hammer pivot pin. This is a simple fix, please advise. I do not recommend using Locktite.
Take these guys advice. My suggestion was purely from a generic perspective of retaining a loose fitting dowel or bearing.
Great quick customer service!
Thank you very much Mr Wolverine and Paul_T.
I took out the hammer pin easily and the “J” spring was in fact the culprit. This we my first disassembly of an AR style trigger and I am now much more familiar with the design. The “J” spring was still in place however canted to one side and wasn’t grabbing the detent thus the pin was free to walk out. When I reassembled the trigger I pushed the pin in from opposite side (the side is was canted towards) and felt the J spring pop into the detent. It seems to be holding fine now and can no longer freely push the pin from side to side as before. After working the hammer a few dozen times there is no side to side movement or walking of the pin and my problem is solved. Thanks very much for your help and input. This is what makes the firearms commuty in Canada great and why Wolverene will always have my patronage.
All the best and thanks for bringing this great product to market.
Last edited by Capt; 08-26-2018 at 04:21 PM.
My thoughts found here: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...of-AWESOMENESS!!!
Firstly these are newly manufactured rifles with a warranty, please contact Kodiak defence if you have a problem, we do not expect you to have to fix a problem yourself.
Secondly if you have trouble chambering a round, STOP. Could be a foreign object in the chamber (I had it happen to me with a hunting rifles when a tiny piece of plastic from the cartridge packet was stuck to the round) If you force a round into the chamber you may have a catastrophic failure, something that should be avoided.
I have just had a discussion with Steve at Kodiak and have learnt the following.
In order to source enough chamber reamers (.223 Wylde) Kodiak sourced them from more than one manufacture. All reamers give correct head space but as .223 Wylde is a “new” caliber there are no SAMI specifications for the chamber. We are now seeing that some chambers are “tighter” than others and this is why we are seeing some problems with some ammo. Unfortunately we do not know which rifles were chambered with which reamers.
If you are experiencing any issues at all, please stop shooting with any “suspect ammo” and contact Service@Kodiakdefence.com
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