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Thread: Wk180-c feedback

  1. #391
    CGN Regular Kirkwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_T View Post
    Break in procedure is in Section 8.4
    https://www.wolverinesupplies.com/do...rsn=a7529fd7_2

    Deflector; well the marks are not horrible unless you are anal about them. There are pics around in this thread.
    thanks for the link... yeah if it's nothing worse than what I have seen here I do not care... I am not expecting this rifle to last into old age... following learning the basics with it I figure I will want to build my next AR from 0... and will likely take the time to only get quality components.
    CSSA, CCFR & CPC member.

  2. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkwood View Post
    thanks for the link... yeah if it's nothing worse than what I have seen here I do not care... I am not expecting this rifle to last into old age... following learning the basics with it I figure I will want to build my next AR from 0... and will likely take the time to only get quality components.
    Aside from preventing the cosmetic damage it will also help eject the brass forward rather than directly out the side. When I was doing the break-in period I had brass ending up 4 to 5 benches to my right. Thankfully only one other person was at the range, exactly 5 benches over (it landed near their feet, but were landing on top of the benches closer to me).

    With the deflector on I'd say 75% of the brass ends up in front of me, and 25% lands on the bench directly next to me. But I haven't had any go farther than that since.

    ALSO - Update on the rifle. I've gone back to the range a few times now. Between 200 and 300 rounds through the rifle at this point.
    I had the firing pin fly out of the BCG due to the retaining pin walking loose! My bad for not being more thoughtful. If you take the BCG apart when putting the retaining pin back in make sure to use a flathead screwdriver or something similar to pry the two ends of the retaining pin apart so it is wedged in there and can't just walk itself out. No serious damage but I didn't notice and thus dropped the hammer onto the spring that had come out, so now my spring is a little deformed but it hasn't affected the function at all. I thought it was a light primer strike or a hang fire, but after waiting and then trying to eject the round I realized the bolt was stuck, and when I looked boy did I have a mess to sort out in that receiver. I put it all back together and enjoyed the rest of the day AFTER wedging the ends of the retaining pin outward so it can't slide out again.

    As for the previous comment about this rifle being a laser, despite my inexperience I would have to agree. At 100 yards I can barely see the target with my vortex red-dot and I'm getting 6-7 inch groups with both 62gr and 55gr (I'm absolutely new to shooting and thus a terrible marksman, learning trigger control, breathing etc.).

  3. #393
    CGN Regular Comrade Ogilvy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobbieLaidlaw View Post
    Hey guys, this is a warning or at least some info and experience about using the 'Upper/Lower play issue fix'.

    I found a perfectly sized O-ring in the garage and put it where recommended, it worked great (zero play) for about 400 rounds before the ring broke.

    The problem: The area right above the location i fitted my O-ring to seemed to have a lot more wear than the rest of the upper. Specifically, where the BCG rides (top and bottom). Of course, like any other WK, the cam pin grinds a small portion of the upper, not enough on my rifle to even care. The wear on my rifle is very small compared to others i have seen. (This shows Kodiak making improvements, well done Kodiak).

    Anyways, i believe by raising the upper ever so slightly via an O-ring, the BCG does not have the perfect clearance it would have, had the upper been in its original position i.e. slightly lower (The height of the O-ring to be exact). Because of this, the bottom of my BCG, and right where the bottom of the BCG meets with the aluminum above the O-ring is ground down quite a bit. Theres also very minimal wear (finish scratches) on the inner-top of the receiver where the BCG rides, exclusively above the part where the O-ring is placed.

    I decided not to replace the broken O-ring with a new one and just live with the slight wiggle. I imagine this will also make cycles more smooth because the bottom of the BCG wont be hitting the aluminum so hard (not that i had an issue with rough cycles, just an idea).

    On a side note: I have had little to no problems with my rifle after 500 rounds. However, coincidentally or not, at the same time my O-ring broke, before i could remove the O-ring i had a problem depressing the take down 'button'. It was extremely stiff and would not move at all. This was post range day where i really tried to put the rifle through its paces, firing rapidly, getting it quite hot etc.

    I have no proof to believe this is the sole cause, but i suspect the reason i couldn't press the recoil springs in was because the O-ring was holding the upper too high and made it so the plate that the recoil springs sit in became jammed in the receiver.
    I have read somewhere of someone else having a problem with taking down the rifle because of a stuck plate, however i do not recall them giving much detail, they just blamed Kodiak.
    The remedy was a tinsmith hammer lightly tapping the recoil spring plate until it was in far enough that i could separate the upper/lower.
    Even after i separated the upper/lower, the plate remained jammed inside of the upper. I have photos of it stuck in there if anyone is interested. I got the plate out by tapping the back of it.

    On a side-side note: After removing the O-ring, i have also noticed a reduction in the amount of brass residue inside the receiver. I am not sure why this is, i might be wrong about this seeing as i've only fired ~100 rounds since removing the O-ring.

    My rifle has been running fine ever since. If anyone has any extra info, or corrections about my experience id appreciate the insight. Thanks guys.
    Anyone else notice issues while using an o-ring? I appreciate that it removes the wiggle, but now I'm hesitant to use it.

  4. #394
    CGN frequent flyer JoeShmow's Avatar
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    I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
    Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
    So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
    WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?

  5. #395
    Administrator greentips's Avatar
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    I don't think you have used the right tool. A "flat vise jaw" with either rubber or leather won't work. Usually a dedicated barrel vice block or a reaction rod is used. You can also clamp the receiver if neither is available - normally flash hidder should be torqued to no more than 20 ft.lb so using the receiver is no an issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeShmow View Post
    I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
    Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
    So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
    WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?


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  6. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeShmow View Post
    I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
    Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
    So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
    WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?
    Get the right tools if your going to do it yourself, or risk damaging things. You need a reaction rod, armourers wrench, vice would be handy, (google is your friend), The flash hider is bearing on a crush washer and requires a bit of force to rotate it to correct alignment to install and vice versa. Once the barrel is secured use a long box wrench or armourers wrench to rotate off. On the bright side a little scuff is minor, touch it up with a jiffy marker if you are worried.

  7. #397
    CGN frequent flyer Liquid_Snake's Avatar
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    Had the original and hated it.. At least you don't have to machine your own rails and optic mounts and cut it apart to add stock adapters. Also pin your own mags like I had to do. Also the hinge was risky it would snap off if you looked at it funny

  8. #398
    CGN frequent flyer JoeShmow's Avatar
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    OK. So I messed up my barrel. I replaced the flash hider on my AR with no problems. I don't know why it should be such a challenge on the WK.
    Anyway, any suggestions on how to fix the damage I've done? I've managed to further F up my barrel's coating. Any suggestions on how to repair the coating?
    What type of coating is it anyway?
    Last edited by JoeShmow; 07-29-2019 at 11:20 AM.

  9. #399
    CGN frequent flyer FarmerDanz's Avatar
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    How did you f it up? You scratched it a little. Oh well. Live and learn. It seems like a nitrate finish but thats just a guess.

    I think its time you had the help of a smith. He will be glad to show you how the pros do it.

  10. #400
    CGN frequent flyer JoeShmow's Avatar
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    I 3D printed some vise jaws and clamped the barrel tighter than a tiger. I finally managed to get that sucker off.

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