Wk180-c feedback

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Mr Wolverine

Mr Wolverine

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Now the first rifles have shipped, we invite comments from the new owners.This thread is reserved for customer feedback, good bad or ugly. Post photos of your targets, builds etc. Lets keep to first hand accounts please, we reserve the right to edit out comments from non owners.
 
I picked up my rifle last night!

I've had the "mil-spec experience" before so I decided to swap out some of the interface components immediately for parts I had on hand. Here it is complete and ready to test fire today after work:

Fab Defense M4 stock
TriggerTech drop-in
Burris XTR-II 1.5-8x28 w/ PEPR

I probably won't keep the TT in there. But it will be useful to properly group this rifle.

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Some initial feedback:

- Build quality is exceptional. Operation is smooth.

- There was a note included about the bolt-stop not functioning correctly with the included PMAG-style mags. It's true. However the bolt stop works correctly with LAR and PCV 50 mags. I have not tested feeding.

- I tried to take off the handguard but stripped 3 of 4 screws on one side. I'm not sure what torque spec or loctite these screws were using, but it seems excessive.

- I don't know if the holes in the handguard were designed as QD mounts, but they are exactly the same diameter as a QD swivel, but slightly too thick to lock. It might have just been the QD swivel I was using, but eventually I was able to get it to lock by filing my swivel and smacking it in.

- The bolt-stop will not fit without modification with the TriggerTech, and possibly other cassette style triggers.

* The interference comes from bottom of the bolt-stop pin radius and the TriggerTech cassette. When you snug the cassette against the bottom of the trigger pocket with the set screws, the cassette rises up enough to prevent the bolt-stop from rotating on it's pin. If you file off a couple thou on the bottom radius of the bolt-stop, it will work correctly.

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Hand guard screws are not installed with lock tite but should be snug. Use the correct size allen wrench with square corners to avoidd stripping the heads. As soon as we get our spare part kits, one of which will be included with each rifle, we will forward them out, these include two spare screws, in case anyone looses one. The round holes in the hand guard were never intended to accept sling fittings, some thing we could look at.

Correction, I have learnt that a few early hand guard screws did have lock tite.
 
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The included extractor spring on the right was likely causing the extraction issues. The new one on the left, in addition to the added rubber "donut", should fix extraction.

With the included extractor spring, the extractor pin basically fell out. There was almost no spring tension on the extractor. With the new spring setup the pin took a considerable amount of force to get in, which indicates the extractor is under a lot more tension!

I hope to test it out this weekend!

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200 rounds through it today of 55gr PMC and 40gr VMAX and not a single failure to eject or feed.

I had a couple light primer strikes but that could be due to the gun running a bit dry or my trigger tech trigger.

The gun is perfect now in my opinion. No luck feeding 77gr but not a huge deal
 
Ran my 180 again today, I ran the gun pretty wet this time and had zero issues.

Keep her wet, at least during break-in and you won't have a problem.

I was able to keep 5 shot groups at a little over an inch with PMC 55gr @ 100

Now I just need a 50 beo bolt!
 
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Paul_T said:
Good news !

What are you using for lube - pretty wet is what, dripping ??
Click to expand...

I'm just using CLP.

The bolt carrier is phosphated which isn't very slick, so make sure it's coated very well. Don't even use a rag, just apply some CLP and spread it with your fingers. Do the same on your bolt, cam pin, and recoil guide rods. Apply lube in the cam way in the upper and around the locking lugs.

"pretty wet" just means not lubed sparingly to me. coat all contact points and don't wipe away residual lube.
 
Postman just dropped off the package :)

Do all these rifles have a bit of play (rattle) between the upper and lower?

It sure seems a solid piece otherwise.

Range tomorrow
 
Paul_T said:
Postman just dropped off the package :)

Do all these rifles have a bit of play (rattle) between the upper and lower?

It sure seems a solid piece otherwise.

Range tomorrow
Click to expand...

Yes, mine does. Not of much consequence. You can use a accu-wedge or shim of some type to lock it up.
 
If you want to install a Magpul (or perhaps any other) bipod mount in the front M-Lok position you will need to grind down one of the mounting screws - the one for the aft hole. It is too long out of the box and hits the gas block.

You can see the threads of the screw I am speaking about on the right

 
Got mine lastnight. Fit and finish is really good considering the price. Excellent machining, I've yet to find a blemish or bad spot
Supplied hera mags did not drop free (almost, not quite) and my Lancer L5 mags dropped no problem.

Getting the rig out on Monday and I'll try a few different brands of ammo and report back in.
 
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Had the rifle at the range for the first time this morning. Only got through 75 rounds, I had limited time.
Finished the barrel break-in process & then another 40 rounds after that.

The rifle performed beautifully with no hic ups. The supplied Hera mags & the Lancer L5 mags both finished with the bolt held open. For those that are concerned, I didn’t notice any marks or dents around the ejection port after 75 rounds.
There is a slight amount of receiver play, not enough to bother most including me but some of the more obsessive fellows it might. Although easily remedied if that sort of thing drives you nuts.
I thought I would hate the shorter handguard and had already started compiling a list of ones to replace it, but after handling and firing it today I’m pretty sure I’ll keep the stock one. It felt balanced and solid.

The trigger is what you’d except from a stock mil-spec ar15 trigger. It’s not the worst thing out there but I think a trigger upgrade is in my future. It felt a little heavy for my tastes.

I’m taking it back up to the range in the morning as I didn’t have access to the 100yard today, had to settle for 20 yard Multi-Purpose bays which was fine for barrel break in. I’ll run some different commercial loads and see how it does for grouping.

All in all, I’m super impressed with what I got especially for the money spent :)

Well done Wolverine & Kodiak
 
John and all at Wolverine, I know you have commented that you may not be following other threads here but the info ref the handguard<>gasblock has been passed along by griffin68 and I can confirm it with my rifle (cut and paste from my thread https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1754274-WK180C-at-the-range):

Further from JaredP's comments on his rifle, half of my handguard screws had loctite and the other half did not. John @ Wolverine has said they should not have loctite but a few got out that way. Use a 3mm allen and they come out with just a bit of pressure required, heads stayed OK.

griffin68 reported his safety selector screws were backing out and needed loctite but mine have loctite both sides. Also his comments regarding the handguard touching the gas block are correct. It is more pronounced on one side - the other side seems fine. Not sure if there is enough play in the guard holder when tightening the screws to keep a gap on all sides but I think Kodiak needs to address this and open up the area around the gas block slightly to guarantee a free floating guard. Probably the easiest thing for them to do is reduce the OD of the gas block a few thou.....

Another slight annoyance to note is any M-Lok accessories on the lower part of the handguard aft of the block need to be removed to take the handguard off. This is due to clearances between the M-Lok t-nuts/screws and the gas block on the way by.
 
My hand guard screws were good and tight with no lock tite. I did remove the screws on the safety selector and put blue lock tight on them. I’m not sure the gun is over gassing but the hand guard touching the gas block is effecting the groups. I could make my groups open up by putting more pressure on the fore end.
 
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