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Thread: Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

  1. #1431
    Member Qwerty1zer's Avatar
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    Last edited by Qwerty1zer; 05-30-2020 at 02:24 AM.

  2. #1432
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    Watching this thread close, my set has a lot of play in it(more than any AR I've owned) and have been playing with ideas of how to fix it.

    I just measured my Strike Industries front pin at 0.247" with a mitutoyo micrometer. Randon pin I had in my parts bin was 0.249"

    I also took a 0.250 pin gauge and it has play in the upper receiver hole. I don't have any pin gauges bigger than .250 so cant check that.

  3. #1433
    Business Member alberta tactical rifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwerty1zer View Post
    Front takedown pin in the TNA LPK that I planned on using is measuring .245, yikes. Might have to replace if its that critical.
    Many of the issues we have encountered seem to come back to out of spec pins and parts. Most of which we believe to be off shore sourced parts hence the dirt cheap pricing on these parts.
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  4. #1434
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer jiffx2781's Avatar
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    Last edited by jiffx2781; 05-18-2020 at 11:46 AM.
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  5. #1435
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    Are you guys all using bev blocks/ reaction rods to build your receivers and barrel install? Is a vice needed?
    Hitchvault.ca

  6. #1436
    GunNutz Patt08's Avatar
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    I was planning on using my BevBlock, but I’ve seen some posting that you need a reaction rod? Maybe ATRS can chime in.


    Quote Originally Posted by scottcullen View Post
    Are you guys all using bev blocks/ reaction rods to build your receivers and barrel install? Is a vice needed?
    |CCFR|

  7. #1437
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Mumbles Marble Mouth's Avatar
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    I’m curious now just how loose the fit is. Is it S&W M&P Sport II loose or worse? Something that maybe interesting, I changed the barrel on my Sport II to a 20” M16 barrel and the receiver doesn’t feel loose like it did with the 16”. The only idea that came to mind is the extra weight of the barrel puts more pressure on the rear takedown pin.
    "If you elect a clown, you get a circus. "

  8. #1438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patt08 View Post
    I was planning on using my BevBlock, but I’ve seen some posting that you need a reaction rod? Maybe ATRS can chime in.
    Due to the location of the front takedown pin being lower than a standard AR-15. A Bev block will not fit the upper receiver.

    You’re best bet is a reaction rod or the cheaper barrel torque tool from TNA. Unless you have a vice block but remember that putting too much pressure on the upper itself can cause damage if you’re placing it in a vice. This is why the barrel torque tool is your safest option.

  9. #1439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteannerdy View Post
    Due to the location of the front takedown pin being lower than a standard AR-15. A Bev block will not fit the upper receiver.

    You’re best bet is a reaction rod or the cheaper barrel torque tool from TNA. Unless you have a vice block but remember that putting too much pressure on the upper itself can cause damage if you’re placing it in a vice. This is why the barrel torque tool is your safest option.
    100% Torque tool, TNA is a good place to find it. It's 1 tool you wont regret buying, it'll last you a few life times of building!
    I want you to be pleased with your purchase, so do not hesitate one bit to ask questions before purchase! If we do decide to go forward with payment, I assume that you are satisfied with all info provided before payment. This is a polite as-is disclaimer.

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  10. #1440
    CGN Regular greg olmstead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottcullen View Post
    Are you guys all using bev blocks/ reaction rods to build your receivers and barrel install? Is a vice needed?
    I used a bev block. I removed the roll pin that holds the metal barrel extension torque tool in the plastic block and slid it up until it lined up then used a 1/4" pin in the upper pin hole and bev block hole. I then clamped the bev block in the vise and it doesn't move. It still acts like it was designed to other than the back of the bev block where you push your bolt carrier over the spigot with the oring on.

    My second upper I used a wheeler delta series upper vice block that has the picatinney clamp in it. Bought it from TNA for 55 dollars. I really like how it holds the upper. I think it is a very good way to hold the upper instead of 2 pin or the barrel index pin. Reaction rods are amazing for muzzle devices as it introduces no stress into the upper.

    Here is the wheeler upper clamp

    ht tps://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bench-vise-blocks/delta-series-ar-upper-picatinny-rail-vise-block-prod126528.aspx

    It works for anything with a 1913 picatinney rail and leaves absolutely no marks or indications that the upper has ever been in a clamp. It also has pins for an ar10 and ar15 upper so you can take the upper off and hold it securely for cleaning or whatever you want to do

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