Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

[smokenhope]

I’ve only built two AR 10 and three AR 15 and I’ve used the .223 no go gauge once.

Now I just make a dummy rnd and chamber it, if the bolt closes, its a go .

If the bolt don’t close, then your SOL

The point of using go/no go gauges is moreso to check for excessive headspace with the no-go gauge, not the ability to chamber a round. That being said if you are using quality parts chances are that by design you won’t have issues. However for my own peace of mind I always check headspace in all my builds and recommend anyone putting together their own to do the same. Also, if you are buying gauges you are better off with getting a no-go and a field gauge vs a go gauge.

[Brianma65]

The point of using go/no go gauges is moreso to check for excessive headspace with the no-go gauge, not the ability to chamber a round. That being said if you are using quality parts chances are that by design you won’t have issues. However for my own peace of mind I always check headspace in all my builds and recommend anyone putting together their own to do the same. Also, if you are buying gauges you are better off with getting a no-go and a field gauge vs a go gauge.

Wouldn’t you also be able to check that with a dummy rnd. What would be considered excessive head space?

I understand how it works on a bolt, as I’ve installed a couple of barrels on a savage 10 TR, using the gauges.

But to have excessive headspace on an ar15, wouldn’t you have to have some very out of spec parts?

[smokenhope]

The dummy round would basically be acting as a go guage. And max headspace is different for .223 and 5.56. I believe 5.56 is 1.4736. That’s also bigger than most .223 Remington field gauges.
Failing on a no-go guage also doesn’t make it unsafe but if the bolt closes on a field guage I probably wouldn’t be shooting it. Sometimes all it takes is a bolt swap, tolerance stacking can add up sometimes, but yes if using higher-end parts chances are that this wouldn’t be an issue.
However for the time it takes and the cost/ borrowing of the gauges I definitely think it’s a good idea to be sure.

[Brianma65]

The dummy round would basically be acting as a go guage. And max headspace is different for .223 and 5.56. I believe 5.56 is 1.4736. That’s also bigger than most .223 Remington field gauges.
Failing on a no-go guage also doesn’t make it unsafe but if the bolt closes on a field guage I probably wouldn’t be shooting it. Sometimes all it takes is a bolt swap, tolerance stacking can add up sometimes, but yes if using higher-end parts chances are that this wouldn’t be an issue.
However for the time it takes and the cost/ borrowing of the gauges I definitely think it’s a good idea to be sure.

Thanks

[Shorerider]

What’s thoughts on go/no go guages. I don’t have a set. Is it vital? I don’t want to roll the dice on $2000 worth of parts. Any thoughts. ??

I picked up .223 go and no go and a 5.56 no go for pretty cheap. Worth having. Like you said not worth the roll of the dice. More than a loss of some parts of the rifle you could lose parts of yourself.

[robab]

I picked up .223 go and no go and a 5.56 no go for pretty cheap. Worth having. Like you said not worth the roll of the dice. More than a loss of some parts of the rifle you could lose parts of yourself.

Where did you source them?

[Brianma65]

Where did you source them?

TNA had some at good prices.

[Shorerider]

Where did you source them?

TNA. Bought their branded ones.

[Doogie 3gun]

TNA also has a rental program for go/no go gauges.

[docscoutjr]

Again, to my point about breaking this thread up.....but I suppose you can search.
I am on the light weight track, got a Brownells light weight BCG inbound, MRA pencil, the hand guard....yea thats a problem light and strong = $$$ so still trying to figure that out.
Stock, not so much of a problem, lots of choices, just a matter of compromise in terms of LOP and cheek weld. I run a PRS on my AT15 and love the fit, weight, well thats another story, but I only carry it for 30 some odd seconds in a 3G stage. Some folks here have some pretty optimistic ideas about weight, I would be interested in realistic build ideas. I think 7.5lbs is a fair target. Thoughts?

Hi guys , So im new to this platform/rifle. While we wait for delivery i thought i would start buying some parts here and there. Not looking for high end stuff, nor cheap junk. There seems to be so many brands and price differences. Hard to grasp it. Some good suggestions to point me in the right direction would be great. I havent purchased a thing yet. thanks