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Thread: Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

  1. #1561
    Super GunNutz Razer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KHTL View Post
    Does anyone know how I can remove the rear takedown pin and what is required to fit an aftermarket pin like a KNS or V Seven titanium pin? I am receiving my rifle soon and would like to buy some pins beforehand.
    Drilling things out would be required... would probably want to send to ATRS to make that modification. I just went through this dilemma myself, decided to just keep the original there for simplicity's sake.

    You can still swap out the front one no problem, I decided on the BAD Titanium ones and will probably just use the rear one on an AR.

  2. #1562
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    Quote Originally Posted by KHTL View Post
    Does anyone know how I can remove the rear takedown pin and what is required to fit an aftermarket pin like a KNS or V Seven titanium pin? I am receiving my rifle soon and would like to buy some pins beforehand.
    What are you trying to gain by doing this? The upper still will not hinge forward like an AR does.
    They do offer a modification to drill the lower for the detent and spring so a regular rear TD pin can be used, but they are quick to stste it is a waste of $150.00 plus the cost of whatever pin you want to use as the different pin serves no use over what come factory.
    Trust me their design works just fine as it is. Drilling out the factory installed rear pin after you get the lower could cause you waaaaay more grief that you think. IF you have a fully equipped machine shop and were to make a fixture it could be done, but again to what benefit?

  3. #1563
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    I agree with the above. I didn’t realize there system was different before I got my hands on one and had already purchased take down pins. Cheaper to return them or use them on another build. This is just a solution looking for a problem I’m my mind.
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  4. #1564
    CGN Regular sphen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryang5177 View Post
    I agree with the above. I didn’t realize there system was different before I got my hands on one and had already purchased take down pins. Cheaper to return them or use them on another build. This is just a solution looking for a problem I’m my mind.
    Same thing here, just tossed the ones I bought into the spare parts bin to be used on another build another day. That seems like a lot of work for no real gain...
    WTB: Surefire 300 Ultra

  5. #1565
    GunNutz Uisge's Avatar
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    So first trip out with the sporter, second mag, third round, she locked up solid. Shot sounded funny and felt funny, tried the charging handle, mortared it, still locked up. Noticed the FA was stiff and would not move, got out the tools, knocked out the FA retainer pin and finally it let go. Seems to me like the FA caught the BCG under recoil, it did not catch at all when I racked the rifle after assembly, and I can assure you it was racked many times. Forward assist (standard Mil-spec) was chewed up on the end, pin had 2 neat dents in it right in the middle, and there was cleaned off metal at the end of the notch for the retaining pin. So I left it out, gave it a once over and ran it for a few more mags. No problems there. Anyways, I just thought Id reach out and see if anyone else has had issues like this, is there a FA that works better? I tried the one out of a spare stag 10 upper I had (that threaded retaining pin is much easier to deal with than the roll pin) and it seemed to protrude further into the MS than the stag upper when felt at the pawl end of the bore, it took very little pressure to get the pawl to catch the bolt serrations. For now Im knocking the pawl pin out and Ill have a Fauxward assist, but any info or experiences from the hive mind would be appreciated. Id really rather not send it back! Not yet anyways.
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  6. #1566
    Super GunNutz jiffx2781's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uisge View Post
    So first trip out with the sporter, second mag, third round, she locked up solid. Shot sounded funny and felt funny, tried the charging handle, mortared it, still locked up. Noticed the FA was stiff and would not move, got out the tools, knocked out the FA retainer pin and finally it let go. Seems to me like the FA caught the BCG under recoil, it did not catch at all when I racked the rifle after assembly, and I can assure you it was racked many times. Forward assist (standard Mil-spec) was chewed up on the end, pin had 2 neat dents in it right in the middle, and there was cleaned off metal at the end of the notch for the retaining pin. So I left it out, gave it a once over and ran it for a few more mags. No problems there. Anyways, I just thought I’d reach out and see if anyone else has had issues like this, is there a FA that works better? I tried the one out of a spare stag 10 upper I had (that threaded retaining pin is much easier to deal with than the roll pin) and it seemed to protrude further into the MS than the stag upper when felt at the pawl end of the bore, it took very little pressure to get the pawl to catch the bolt serrations. For now I’m knocking the pawl pin out and I’ll have a Faux’ward assist, but any info or experiences from the hive mind would be appreciated. I’d really rather not send it back! Not yet anyways.
    My Strike Industries FA stuck out into the receiver a few c hairs too far and would have done exactly what yours did if I didn't notice it and fired it. I also noticed that it would rotate more than it should have so if it was centered it would just barely touch the bcg serrations but if you pushed on it and it turned a bit the corner of the pawl would stick out even farther and jam things right up.

    I also had 1 mil spec FA assembly (not sure of brand it was sitting in my parts bin so long) that would turn excessively. Same thing, if it was sitting centered I could cycle the action but if it turned a bit the corners of the pawl would catch bad.

    The roll pin is what keeps the FA assembly aligned and prevents it from turning once installed so the tolerances between the roll pin and the assembly need to be close. If there's too much play your going to run into problems.

    The mil spec FA assemblies I used from both Stag and Aero Precision fit and functioned as they should. If you tried turning them there was very little movement which means that the assembly and the roll pin were closer to each other. The pawl on both stayed well inside the bore on the receiver and there is no chance of anything catching.

    Your Stag 10 FA assembly might not be the same as an AR-15 assembly.

    Glad you didn't wreck anything besides your FA assembly.

    Perhaps the roll pin hole in the receiver should be relocated outwards a couple more thou to keep tolerances tighter?
    Last edited by jiffx2781; 11-24-2019 at 11:37 PM.
    "Arguing with idiots is like playing chess with a pigeon..... No matter how good you are, the bird is going to s#!t on the board and strut around like it won anyway."

  7. #1567
    GunNutz Uisge's Avatar
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    What’s different on the Stag FA other than the retainer? It’s the same length, width, etc as the one in the picture? The stag one looks a bit higher quality in some ways but other than that seems identical.

  8. #1568
    Member KHTL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no-one special View Post
    What are you trying to gain by doing this? The upper still will not hinge forward like an AR does.
    They do offer a modification to drill the lower for the detent and spring so a regular rear TD pin can be used, but they are quick to stste it is a waste of $150.00 plus the cost of whatever pin you want to use as the different pin serves no use over what come factory.
    Trust me their design works just fine as it is. Drilling out the factory installed rear pin after you get the lower could cause you waaaaay more grief that you think. IF you have a fully equipped machine shop and were to make a fixture it could be done, but again to what benefit?
    Thanks for the insight. I wanted to mod it for the sake of blinging it out some as I have with all 6 of my AR's. Many mods don't offer any benefits and it's literally for the sake of modding only to satisfy the itch. But now that I know it won't be worth the hassle I will pass.

  9. #1569
    Super GunNutz Sniffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alberta tactical rifle View Post
    Many options for barrels, we can make a barrel any contour or length or twist you wish, we can also supply Proof or BSF CFW barrels.
    For bolts JP seems to be 1 of the best but we are also seeing good success with the Brownells bolts. The JP silent captured buffer system works extremely well but the standard AR15 spring and buffer also will work. The 223 standard buffer system is all that is required.
    Tell me more - I want a minimal length (18.X") CFW barrel in 223 Wylde for my MS build so its interesting that you sell the two options I am considering (Proof & BSF)

    Pros & cons of each? Price? I did read about BSF fluted barrels self destructing - is that issue cleared up?

    PM me if you prefer.

  10. #1570
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer griffin86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sniffer View Post
    Tell me more - I want a minimal length (18.X") CFW barrel in 223 Wylde for my MS build so its interesting that you sell the two options I am considering (Proof & BSF)

    Pros & cons of each? Price? I did read about BSF fluted barrels self destructing - is that issue cleared up?

    PM me if you prefer.
    That was their fluted 308 barrels blowing up.
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