WK180 Trouble...Advice needed!

[WbyNut]

I received my rifle on Tuesday and took her out to the range for break in yesterday. After completing the break in procedure without much of an issue, I started having issues with light primer strikes on about the 3rd round in a 5 shot mag, which I initially chalked up to faulty ammo. Then my mags started falling out just enough to no not catch the next round. I have 2 of that came with the rifle and 2 10 round xcr mags. The one 5 round mag pulls out of the well without even hitting the mag release I noticed, while the others are tight until I start shooting. The vibration seems to cause them to drop out of locked position as well.

After getting home I re cleaned and inspected the firearm. I haven't pulled the bolt apart, but I did relube the upper. I also switched the charge handle back to the left side as I swapped it over to the right before my first outing. The reason I swapped it back to the left was to see if it would stop marking up the receiver on shell ejection. Anyway, back to the range today with high hopes...that were crushed lol. On my first 3 shots, I had FTE's.
Try again and click but no bang. Now the firing pin isn't even leaving a mark on the primer. Tried 3 or 4 more times and nothing...

I'm at a loss...took the bolt out when I got home and checked the pin. I don't know if it should protrude out of the bolt with the back pushed in, but mine doesn't. I am new to the AR platform and am hoping for some help. I really want to like this gun after 7 months of anticipation, but it's starting out as a love hate relationship lol. I'll include a few pics below...

Ps--the mags were slapped in tight each time...

Ammo used...


Marking on receiver from ejection I assume...


Bolt/firing pin pushed in at back...


initial light primer strikes...when it was still striking.


Picture of bolt...because why not.

[#1bcshooter]

Broken or bent firing pin

[Ironheart]

Probably another ammo issue......

Hey Kodiak stop sending these out until the problems are corrected

I don't mind watitng a few more months for a problem free rifle

And I'm sure others can agree

Cause if I gotta send mine back (waste of time) I'm not looking for warranty work or things to be fixed that should of worked in the first place.....it will be for a full cash refund!

[#1bcshooter]

[Look at pic # 3 notice the firing pin !

[Paul_T]

On your picture of the bolt pushed all the way in and the firing pin pushed in from the back - the bolt has not completely rotated to the in battery position so the firing pin will not protrude from the bolt face.

The extractor should be at 9 o'clock when looking at the face of the bolt.

Here it is closed and then closed with the pin pushed from the back (sorry for the crap focus on my phone):




You need to find out why the bolt is not rotating fully closed.

[JaredP]

Light strikes: I had light strikes when my gun wasn't WELL lubed during the first couple hundred rounds ("break-in"). Lube all the surfaces in the upper that will contact the carrier, the cam way on the left, the locking lugs, the recoil spring guide rails. And then basically douse the bolt/carrier in lubricant. If you're not lubed well during the first couple hundred, you won't go into battery, and your hammer strike will just slam the bolt into battery rather than impinge on the primer. However, if you can't make your firing pin protrude using your hand when the bolt is seated all the way back in the carrier, your pin is broken or malformed.

Mags dropping: Push in the mag release as far as it can go in using some sort of dowel. The actual mag catch will protrude enough that you will be able to rotate it. Thread it clockwise one extra turn if you can and test mag function.

FTEs: Sounds like the crappy ejector spring issue myself and some others have experienced. See if you can use a punch to push out your ejector spring using hand pressure alone (no vice or hammer). If it can be removed, the firing pin spring isn't strong enough. When you fire, the ejector just snaps off the rim and leaves the case in the chamber.

And put on your glasses guys. Any firing pin will look like it's fuc*** if you take a pic on an angle:



With your bolt fully retracted in the carrier, push the carrier against a flat surface, if it can't do this, it's screwed:



If you have a firing pin or extractor defect, I'm certain John will send you one ASAP. He sent me an extractor when I posted my issue without question. These guys stand behind their stuff.

[Paul_T]

And put on your glasses guys. Any firing pin will look like it's fuc*** if you take a pic on an angle:

With your bolt fully retracted in the carrier, push the carrier against a flat surface, if it can't do this, it's screwed:

And as I mentioned above, if the bolt will not fully retract (as is shown in his picture) then something is probably broken or bent inside the bolt or the carrier.

At the point his bolt is sitting he should not even be able to see the firing pin even if it is pushed in......

[Ironheart]

^^^^^Thanks for the pics and explanation

But we should be NOT dealing with crap like this

[Paul_T]

^^^^^Thanks for the pics and explanation

But we should be NOT dealing with crap like this

I've (somehow) bent a firing pin on a $2000 pistol and broken one on a $4000 one..... just saying

It does appear right from the get go these things need to be run wet.

Personally I'm not bothered that I had to send my upper back, it's just over 100 rifles into production. Early adopters in most things get to be guinea pigs, at least that has been my experience. The quality looks to be there, just some bugs to be worked out perhaps.

[hawk-i]

Can you imagine the whining if it was a NEA. ...LOL