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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rmz...w?usp=drivesdk
Can't post pictures but here is mine.
Specs:
Stag 10 receiver set
Jp mklll 15.5" hand guard
Magpul prs gen 3
Vortex cantilever mount
Sightron SlllSS 8-32X56
and on the inside
Timney Calvin elite trigger
Jp scs gen 2 buffer
Lantac enhanced bolt carrier group
Jury custom barrel 1:8 7mm-08 24"
Bat machine barrel extension
Superlative arms .936 bleed off gas block
Raptor charging handle
Originally Posted by Mike112288
Not if you have adamantium walls
Lol just Racking it a bunch of times and dry firing it.
All items shipped by canada post expedited with tracking and $100 insurance included.
Insurance above $100 coverage is on the buyer.
I'll need to see your PAL for firearms,ammo.
Lol I know I’m just kiddin. I always cycle my new rifles at home tons. They usually end up very smooth and polished before I even fire them lol
I do this with the lower. Sit there watching tv with just the lower and break the trigger a few hundred times, just catch and reset the hammer with the palm of my hand. Smooths the trigger right out. I never thought to do it with the upper as well though...
Not good at uploading pics but first time to the range I got it shooting 3/4 moa without much effort. 6.5CM magpul model- Hornady Match 143gr. With more time and a better optic I'd guess itll shoot this ammo under a half MOA
my .308 gi showed up this morning. Upgrades include a magpul sls buttstock, law tactical folding stock adapter, noveske bad-azz charging handle, magpul mbus pro offset buis, ergo grip, geissele trigger, phase 5 bolt catch, magpul mloc vfg, streamlight tlr1 hl, griffin armament flashcomp, and topped off with a bushnell smrs 1-8.5x 24mm scope with vortex defender caps, arms 34mm qd rings and a switchview lever.
Weight unloaded is 12lbs 1.6 oz. Heavy, but workable for a battle rifle. I personally prefer lighter weight (eg. A faxon pencil barrel would have been nice), but didn't want to spend the extra money. Perhaps a future upgrade, depending on how the stock barrel shoots. With all of my mods completed, i have the ergo set-up that i prefer for my ar builds, with just a few pieces of usgi furniture left over. As anticipated, the gi model made an excellent basis for a rack-grade shooter with some custom touches. So long as my rifle will shoot 2 moa with my stash of south african surplus i will be a very happy camper!
very nice rifle you have sir
looks good man
I'm very interested in hearing more about your rifle once you've had some time to put it to some use. 7mm-08 will be the build I do after christmas for the wife's rifle and will be using the same barrel maker.
First impressions Right Out of the Box.
.308 non-GI model:
Out of the 8 handguard screws 4 I could remove by hand while the rest offered no resistance once a screwdriver was applied. The gas block was not really locked in place, the set screws had not been tightened? The set screws do have teeth but didn't seemed to be turned past "just touching" the barrel. I added bit of red thread locker anyway before tightening down. Added a bit of blue TL to the handguard screws before equally tightening in turn to 38in lbs. I had emailed Stag already noting the issues others had found and asked for info on what things should be set/rightened too. (Provided a link to one of the threads here where it was covered in depth.) No answer as of yet so I just used typical 1/4 past tight/safe for now.
Already had the UBR stock, Vortex Viper HS T 4-16x44mm Scope, atlas type bipod, and larger grip. Just need to clean and find a day to go test.
Last edited by Zen_Seeker; 10-09-2018 at 02:36 PM.
I am not a gun plumber, and am usually only comfortable with the "field strip"...therefore, can someone shed some light on how to best "tighten" up the potential gas tube issue on these new rifles?
How best I can't say, someone more experianced can step up to answer that.
I'm 6'6" so using an allen key to hand tighten should be fine. The red thread locker was only to ensure it doesn't work loose after reading how many others have had this issue even after tightening without thread locker. I just turned with two fingers until I couldn't go any further, with the handguard off. The handguard I used a FatWrench set to break at 38 - 40 inch pounds. Again blue thread locker was just in case.
If Stag or Arms East answers my earlier questions on proper torque settings I'll post back here as well.
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