Modern Sporters starting to ship

[ThatM305Guy]

I'd just get it done somewhere. Probably cheaper in the long run to pay someone to do it

Um......yeah that's a hard no hahaha

[greg olmstead]

Um......yeah that's a hard no hahaha

Its just way easier and cheaper for me to get someone else to do it. By the time I get an air compressor, hvlp sparygun , oven, sand blasting cabinet, acetone and the cerakote it's self I can get 8 guns done at 250 a pop

[alberta tactical rifle]

I'd just get it done somewhere. Probably cheaper in the long run to pay someone to do it

We can do the CeraKote work for you. IF we know in advance we will not oil the parts which then saves having to bead blast off the anodizing to apply the CeraKote.
The process is easier and the CeraKote adheres better to the anodized aluminum that it will to bead blasting off the anodizing, which is done to increase the surface hardness of the aluminum.

[Kornerupine]

We can do the CeraKote work for you. IF we know in advance we will not oil the parts which then saves having to bead blast off the anodizing to apply the CeraKote.
The process is easier and the CeraKote adheres better to the anodized aluminum that it will to bead blasting off the anodizing, which is done to increase the surface hardness of the aluminum.

What oil are you using that it can't be stripped off with strong solvents? Is this a separate thing you do from the dye/sealing process applied to the raw anodizing?

Does it prevent other paints from adhering?

[alberta tactical rifle]

What oil are you using that it can't be stripped off with strong solvents? Is this a separate thing you do from the dye/sealing process applied to the raw anodizing?

Yes it is. When we get anodized parts back they look a little cloudy which is normal, we use a silicone based penetrating oil to "final" seal the anodizing which gives the parts the nice black look.
It can be removed by soaking in a couple of acetone baths prior to CeraKote, I say a couple as just 1 will leave some residue from the oil coming off in the bath, so a second soak or rinse in virgin acetone is recommended. If we know in advance though we can save a guy some hassle by not oiling the parts, then a quick bath in acetone and you are ready to apply the CeraKote.

[Kornerupine]

Yes it is. When we get anodized parts back they look a little cloudy which is normal, we use a silicone based penetrating oil to "final" seal the anodizing which gives the parts the nice black look.
It can be removed by soaking in a couple of acetone baths prior to CeraKote, I say a couple as just 1 will leave some residue from the oil coming off in the bath, so a second soak or rinse in virgin acetone is recommended. If we know in advance though we can save a guy some hassle by not oiling the parts, then a quick bath in acetone and you are ready to apply the CeraKote.

Okay, so you don't really "need" to bead blast off the anodizing to get rid of the oil, I was wondering wtf kind of magic fairy oil you were using to have to bead blast it off.

I was getting worried about my future megatastic paintjob plans.

A guy has to let you know before you receive his stuff from anodizing.

[alberta tactical rifle]

Okay, so you don't really "need" to bead blast off the anodizing to get rid of the oil, I was wondering wtf kind of magic fairy oil you were using to have to bead blast it off.

I was getting worried about my future megatastic paintjob plans.

Talking with a couple other CeraKote applicators who are more recent in being taught the application techniques that we are, blasting is required, which I agree with TO A DEGREE. This is where common sense comes into play, and we all know common sense is an endangered species. IF the parts have been used and lubricated repeatedly, then yes bead blasting after de-greasing followed by an acetone bath IS best. HOWEVER blasting can or will, depending on how aggressive the blasting is done remove the aluminum oxide layer that anodizing creates on the substrate to impart surface hardness. Also blasting will alter tolerances slightly as you are removing material.
On a virgin part that has not been exposed to repeated oiling, or better yet not oiled at all, the CeraKote will adhere perfectly and in some cases better to the raw anodized surface which has a perfect degree of "bite" for the coating to adhere to. A short acetone bath followed by a few hours of low heat to cook off any acetone that penetrates the pores of the substrate and you are good to go to coating stage.

[Kornerupine]

Ok so we should acetone them as soon as we get them to not worry about future paint jobs (whatever the type) adhering properly.

[alberta tactical rifle]

Ok so we should acetone them as soon as we get them to not worry about future paint jobs (whatever the type) adhering properly.

That would be our recommendation if your plan is to coat them right away, or as mentioned let us know and we will not oil yours when we get the parts back from ano.

[Kornerupine]

That would be our recommendation if your plan is to coat them right away, or as mentioned let us know and we will not oil yours when we get the parts back from ano.

And if we don't plan to coat them right away?