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Thread: Modern Sporter builds Q&A

  1. #111
    Business Member Rep. ATRS Shaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwpowell View Post
    I’ve taken mine out several times now from my Sporter.

    I used the long punch set from TNA pushed it out as much as I could with the punch at an angle and then grabbed it with a set of pliers and tapped the pliers with something blunt the rest of the way. As always wrap the receiver in some tape if you’re worried about marring it.
    Don't use needle nose pliers for this! They tend to poke through the tape far too easily when you start tapping on them. I'd sugest putting a plastic card against the side of hte receiver between the pliers and the anodizing. It's the little gouges like that, that'll keep you up at night....

  2. #112
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer jiffx2781's Avatar
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    Last edited by jiffx2781; 05-18-2020 at 10:20 AM.
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  3. #113
    CGN Regular BCreserveMP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuickDraw16 View Post
    ...So I am thinking that I should take out the half driven roll pin and try a new one with the above mentioned punch
    Yes you should use a new pin.
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  4. #114
    CGN Regular greg olmstead's Avatar
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    How hard would it be to run a tap into the rear bolt catch hole to be able to use a threaded bolt catch pin instead of a roll pin. The stag 10s have it and its 100000x easier and less likely to scratch the lower

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by yowski View Post
    Tried a different mag catch, same issue. Separated the receivers and the both LAR and AR mags catch/release properly. Tried again with the upper attached and BCG out and the problem is still present, seems like some sort of internal clearance issue with the upper receiver?
    Just bought one of the RRA LAR-15 10/30 mags and it works fine, guess my upper just doesn't like the short ones for some reason. It may be due to a different style of lips, as seen in this photo. Top RRA LAR-15 10/10, Middle RRA LAR-15 10/30, Bottom AR-15 5/20.


    https://imgur.com/a/PN0NrF8

  6. #116
    Business Member alberta tactical rifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greg olmstead View Post
    How hard would it be to run a tap into the rear bolt catch hole to be able to use a threaded bolt catch pin instead of a roll pin. The stag 10s have it and its 100000x easier and less likely to scratch the lower
    It CAN be done, we do this on the Modern Hunters and Modern Varmints. The cost of the lower would go up some as looooong taps are expensive and have REAL short lifespans and it adds some more run time during machining.
    A threaded pin would also really cut down on availability as there are only a few makers of these pins. These specialty pins are also a fair bit more expensive than standard roll pins. Everybody wanted cheapest possible so we elected to delete many of the nice little features found in our other semi autos to accommodate the wishes of the masses.

    Having the correct tools truly is the best answer, we have assembled literally thousands of AR style rifles over the years and have never had any problems
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  7. #117
    CGN frequent flyer ThatM305Guy's Avatar
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    Yeah I'd rather buy a 20 dollar punch than a hundred dollar bolt catch.

    One of the sponsors on here sells complete armorers kits for like 70 bucks.
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  8. #118
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Sqr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATRS Shaun View Post
    Don't use needle nose pliers for this! They tend to poke through the tape far too easily when you start tapping on them. I'd sugest putting a plastic card against the side of hte receiver between the pliers and the anodizing. It's the little gouges like that, that'll keep you up at night....
    This is what I use during builds,

    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Can these tool not help on the MS?
    Last edited by Sqr; 02-11-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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  9. #119
    CGN Regular greg olmstead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alberta tactical rifle View Post
    It CAN be done, we do this on the Modern Hunters and Modern Varmints. The cost of the lower would go up some as looooong taps are expensive and have REAL short lifespans and it adds some more run time during machining.
    A threaded pin would also really cut down on availability as there are only a few makers of these pins. These specialty pins are also a fair bit more expensive than standard roll pins. Everybody wanted cheapest possible so we elected to delete many of the nice little features found in our other semi autos to accommodate the wishes of the masses.

    Having the correct tools truly is the best answer, we have assembled literally thousands of AR style rifles over the years and have never had any problems
    What do you suggest to remove the bolt catch roll pin? Tap it out a bit then the rest of the way with pliers? Thats what I had to do. Serious question. I want a maritime bolt catch and I put a milspec one in just to get out shooting. But after taking it out on a coyote hunt i think that a maritime would make my life just a wee bit easier with gloved hands.
    Last edited by greg olmstead; 02-11-2019 at 06:44 PM.

  10. #120
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Dietz's Avatar
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    One of the reasons I prefer spiral pins to roll pins. Easier to take in and out, and stronger.
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