Modern Sporter builds Q&A

Not sure if I'm understanding what you've posted. You need to tighten the barrel nut but it's the kind that the gas tube feeds through?

Before you panic, try disconnecting the gas tube from the block. If your BCG is fully back (or out of the receiver) you may find you have enough rearward tube travel to be able to remove it without having to fiddle with the gas block.

It’ll work, at least with a Milspec Barrel nut. Just punch the roll pin holding the gas tube to the gas block and pull towards the upper, rotate and pull past the FSB.

Edit: Jiffx beat me to it. HotSoup, if you pay the shipping I’ll fix it for you if you want, I have all the tools and knowledge.
 
Yeah, I think Im going to just send it in. I hate fiddling with punches and roll pins, I always manage to break or scratch something. ALWAYS
 
Update on the Trigger Tech adjustable

My upper arrived and I'm going to have to agree with cwpowell that this trigger is NOT compatible.

Yes there is enough material on the rear of the trigger adjustment screw housing that I can file it down to get the upper receiver lug to go past BUT after taking a good look at it I see that it will leave the housing VERY thin.

It may or may not ever cause a problem but for now I have two other lowers without TT triggers and I only have 1 upper. So for now I'm going to leave the TT alone and put one of my other ones together.

Could you take some material off the back lug and the trigger housing? The lug has lots of material you could cheat a bit on
 
So the Geiselle HSNM trigger won’t work either?
The hook on the upper that’s hooks on the lower takedown pin is hitting the top of the disconnector.

I was thinking I could remove the takedown pin, Nate the U/L and then re install the rear takedown pin.
But when I tryed removing the torque screw, everything just rotated.
Any recommendations on what to clamp on the pin, so it do not rotate ,while removing the screw
 
So the Geiselle HSNM trigger won’t work either?
The hook on the upper that’s hooks on the lower takedown pin is hitting the top of the disconnector.

I was thinking I could remove the takedown pin, Nate the U/L and then re install the rear takedown pin.
But when I tryed removing the torque screw, everything just rotated.
Any recommendations on what to clamp on the pin, so it do not rotate ,while removing the screw

Needle nosed vise grips from the INSIDE of the lower is how I hold them to install the rear pin, so I don't see why it would not work in reverse.

The rear pin is a standard size so KNS and other like that will fit.
 
That is possible but I really see no reason to do anything to the receiver. I'd have to be pretty bent on using a specific trigger to do that. I would much rather take my chances at ruining a replaceable disposable trigger.

I have a Timney I could steal from another rifle and put it in this lower if I have to. I know the TT will work in the other rifle so I really have no reason to chop up anything.

If I end up trimming the TT so it will work I'm not really worried about it but do I really need to do that to a $300 trigger when I really don't have to.

Kinda sucks because I have two of these triggers and they are my favorite trigger but I can't really complain because I think the list of parts that will be incompatible with the MS receivers will still be very small.

The Calvin elite fits fyi
 
Needle nosed vise grips from the INSIDE of the lower is how I hold them to install the rear pin, so I don't see why it would not work in reverse.

The rear pin is a standard size so KNS and other like that will fit.

p-18630-ar15_push-button-pin-combo-set.png


If you use this in place of the fixed rear pin, then you can use whatever trigger you'd like, and simply pull the pin out to take it down. We're researching potential, and optional modifications's that can be done to the rear takedown pin/crossbar but frankly haven't had the time to come up for air, or eat last Thursdays breakfast yet, let alone R&D into mods. There have been a number of guys asking if they could somehow have their front and rear takedown pins matching...
 
p-18630-ar15_push-button-pin-combo-set.png


If you use this in place of the fixed rear pin, then you can use whatever trigger you'd like, and simply pull the pin out to take it down. We're researching potential, and optional modifications's that can be done to the rear takedown pin/crossbar but frankly haven't had the time to come up for air, or eat last Thursdays breakfast yet, let alone R&D into mods. There have been a number of guys asking if they could somehow have their front and rear takedown pins matching...

If it’s an option on lower run 2 for a normal rear pin setup I might do that, let us know if you will and the extra cost (not sure on how much extra machining time per lower for the spring and detent channel required). I like the ability to retain the front pin to pivot open the rifle (cleaning, BCG swap, etc). If it’s a no it won’t be a deal breaker lol.
 
If it’s an option on lower run 2 for a normal rear pin setup I might do that, let us know if you will and the extra cost (not sure on how much extra machining time per lower for the spring and detent channel required). I like the ability to retain the front pin to pivot open the rifle (cleaning, BCG swap, etc). If it’s a no it won’t be a deal breaker lol.

Would still be able to run the same front pin as normal. Just run the pin posted here in the rear if you want to use the Trigger tech adjustable.

The way they mate wont allow the upper to pivot on the front pin either it's a push down and back type of mating system. That's why there is a hook instead of a hole
 
So the Geiselle HSNM trigger won’t work either?
The hook on the upper that’s hooks on the lower takedown pin is hitting the top of the disconnector.

I was thinking I could remove the takedown pin, Nate the U/L and then re install the rear takedown pin.
But when I tryed removing the torque screw, everything just rotated.
Any recommendations on what to clamp on the pin, so it do not rotate ,while removing the screw

So a Geissele High Speed National Match doesn't fit either???? I bought one because a Hiperfire 24C wouldn't fit. I just can't seem to win with triggers lately.
 
Would still be able to run the same front pin as normal. Just run the pin posted here in the rear if you want to use the Trigger tech adjustable.

The way they mate wont allow the upper to pivot on the front pin either it's a push down and back type of mating system. That's why there is a hook instead of a hole

Oh yeah I get how it goes together, I just don’t like the pins pictured for a rear. I’m just running a Milspec Trigger, I want the rear pin for ease of use. If they don’t want to do it I’ll just pull it apart like it’s designed.
 
So a Geissele High Speed National Match doesn't fit either???? I bought one because a Hiperfire 24C wouldn't fit. I just can't seem to win with triggers lately.
The top of the disconnector where the first stage adjustment screw is located, is to high and it brings up in the hook on the lower.

You could remove material from the back of the hook, which I’m not gonna do.
I’m gonna remove the takedown pin and try and join them first.
 
Taking that pin out is a Beaach!
The small screw is locktited in.
You have to grip on the needle nose with the grip of Thor :)

After removing the pin , I got the U:L together, but it wasn’t easy.
You have to tip the upper on a coward angle to the lower( kinda like putting them together backwards.
The front will not pivot, once the back pin is out.
So now for the weird stuff.
Riding the CH will allow the trigger to work.
Slamming the CH will not engage the trigger.

Trigger works with a mag when you release the bolt via the bolt release, but not when you release it manually.. (dummy rnds)

Then it’s opposite on an empty mag.
Also the maritime bolt catch is very stiff.

I think the trigger is causing all these issues and is a no go.
 
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