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Thread: Beginner Grouse/Partridge Gun

  1. #11
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    If you are not an excellent shot with a .22 forget head shots altogether, because you'll miss way more than you hit. My friends are relatively happy using a .22 and going for center body shots after giving up on head shots. They claim there usually is negligibly meat loss and far less missing.
    Now this is all in northern Alberta where you can be attempting 30-40 yard shots. I'm a pretty good shot and have missed more head shots on grouse than i care to admit. Next time I'll try the body shot method for myself. I've had very good luck with a tightly choke 12 gauge and assuming just over the head at up to 20 yards. But one shot with a shotgun often scares away any other birds.

    Just to add prospective to this discussion, i recently spoke to a well known gun shop owner in Edmonton and he loves using a browning tbolt in 17 hmr for grouse because of the excellet range, accuacy and rapid fire capability with a relatively light package.

    Finally i want to point out that being a good shot with a .22 and being “accurate” with a shotgun even with a tight choke is a much lower level of difficulty.

  2. #12
    CGN Regular HeliMD's Avatar
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    410 is the ticket . I have taken more grouse than i can count with m 410 pump action. If i get board ill take the .17 hmr for the long shots if i see a grouse way ahead on the trail and i want to take its head off. but 90% of the time the 410 is the way to go.

  3. #13
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer tigrr's Avatar
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    12 gauge is the answer. Shell are cheap. When you get better at shooting, you shoot the heads off. I use #4 and the occasional #2 when walking a trail that they roost on the branches beside. Some shots are 4 feet away. If wing shooting then #7.5.
    Depending on where the bird is sitting, for instance high in the tree and 22 will fly for quite a ways. You don't know what is over there where the bullet lands.
    A shotgun of some sort is most preferred.
    Price 410, 20g and 12g shells the next time your in a gun store. I shoot a lot so price has a bearing. 10 flats at a time = 5000 rounds. Last time I did that was 2006. 6 boxes of 25 left.
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  4. #14
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    20 gauge with mod choke does the trick for me with 7/8 oz #6 (mostly an 870 Youth 18.5" VR), a lot more margin for error than the .410, especially for novice hunters. I do have a couple of .410's and like them for what they are but they do have limitations, and while I have no empirical data on this I suspect that lots of wounded birds have escaped due to misapplication of the .410 than about anything else especially with less experienced hunters.

    Most of what i do with a shotgun now gets done with the 20, including deer hunting if required. I no longer hunt waterfowl so it's pretty much upland game, rabbits and the occasional outing for pheasant south of the border. My vote is for skipping the .410 and going straight to the 20 - unless you can find a good deal on a 28 and are willing to put up with the hassle of locating ammo (pro tip - buy it by the case when you find it), but that's a whole other discussion...

  5. #15
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    I have used everything from a hand thrown rock to my big game rifle to take grouse. However my preference is a 20 gauge but I used a 12 gauge or .22lr for a long time with zero issues. It sounds like you want something primarily for taking birds on the ground, none of your choices are wrong for that. A 12 gauge with a suitable choke and a little practice will not destroy a bird unless you put the pattern low up close and even a .410 can make a mess in that situation.

  6. #16
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer .22LRGUY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudgunner49 View Post
    20 gauge with mod choke does the trick for me with 7/8 oz #6 (mostly an 870 Youth 18.5" VR), a lot more margin for error than the .410, especially for novice hunters. I do have a couple of .410's and like them for what they are but they do have limitations, and while I have no empirical data on this I suspect that lots of wounded birds have escaped due to misapplication of the .410 than about anything else especially with less experienced hunters.

    Most of what i do with a shotgun now gets done with the 20, including deer hunting if required. I no longer hunt waterfowl so it's pretty much upland game, rabbits and the occasional outing for pheasant south of the border. My vote is for skipping the .410 and going straight to the 20 - unless you can find a good deal on a 28 and are willing to put up with the hassle of locating ammo (pro tip - buy it by the case when you find it), but that's a whole other discussion...
    I've read all the comments so far, and this^ is probably closest to how I view things. Also, should be said...you were gifted a very nice 22 for your first...so congratulations on that!

    For ammo cost alone, .410 and 28ga should almost be off the list of things to consider as a new hunter. To be wing shooting (flying/moving birds) successfully, allot of practice is required..and I don't know anyone (personally) willing to pay that much for ammo to bust clays. I know they're out there..I just don't know anyone. lol 12ga is fine, but my experience with that is that it's a little tough on the meat...and even a MOD choke with a 26-28" barrel will still bust-up these small birds at 30 yards. As me how I know. lol I like 20ga best, CYL or MOD choke depending on the distance you're shooting. Rimfires like the OP's 22~I've been shooting 22 very seriously for about 30 years..and where I hunt grouse, you'd be at a VERY VERY serious disadvantage trying to use a rifle. You just can't get that close to them. I've maybe seen 2 birds in almost 10 years of hunting them that I'd have felt good using a 22 for the task. The rest~shotgun, and you'd want to be a pretty decent shotgunner. I've yet to find a spot with dumb birds you can get super close to...but I keep hearing that's possible. lol In fact, just after the opener...we're heading to a spot with that reputation, so maybe I'll report back. As plentiful as they're supposed to be, I'll have a 20ga with me, not a rimfire.

  7. #17
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer joe-nwt's Avatar
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    Use your 22. Learn to shoot it and learn to hunt partridge while they are sitting still. These skills will come in handy when you progress to bigger game
    ...I don't like making plans for the day because then "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom.

  8. #18
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    IMO, a .410 is the way to go. That's based on a few generations of my family using them, and hunting alot of grouse.
    If you meet more than one azzhole per day...chances are you're the azzhole....

  9. #19
    CGN Regular Doogs's Avatar
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    I'd go with a Chiappa Double Badger. They are a combination o/u, available in 410/22lr, 410/22mag, and I think 20g and some other cals as well

  10. #20
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    Skip the .410, IMO; 20 gauge does everything it does but better, and cheaper.

    .22LR is a nice option for more mid range shots that might not be ideal for the 20 gauge, but grouse are pretty dumb and you can usually close the distance

    I really like using my CZ452 chambered in .17HMR with FMJ rounds for longer shots where I want to challenge myself. It's not cheap to shoot, but it's a lot of fun. I think i'm going to drag my MDI SLR out this year and go for some .223 headshots at range too
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