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Thread: STAG-10 Upper/Lower Combos - Non-Restricted - BACK IN STOCK!

  1. #11
    CGN Regular Buzzballer's Avatar
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    Here’s another dumb question. With this package you will need:

    Stock furniture and buffer tube
    Barrel and barrel nut.
    Gas block and gas tube and associated parts
    Charging handle
    Bolt and carrier assembly

    From a cost perspective. Is it better to build a Stag-10 or buy one complete?
    NFA/CSSA Member since the Swiss Arms and CZ 858 Reclassification!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzballer View Post
    Here’s another dumb question. With this package you will need:

    Stock furniture and buffer tube
    Barrel and barrel nut.
    Gas block and gas tube and associated parts
    Charging handle
    Bolt and carrier assembly

    From a cost perspective. Is it better to build a Stag-10 or buy one complete?
    That really depends on how good you are at finding deals on parts.
    the other thing to add into the cost of building is the tools needed unless you already have them ie: headspace gauges, shoulder grease, reaction rod, torque wrench.

  3. #13
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer jonnyboy1014's Avatar
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    You could always source a pre built upper on the EE. That's what I did
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzballer View Post
    Here’s another dumb question. With this package you will need:

    Stock furniture and buffer tube
    Barrel and barrel nut.
    Gas block and gas tube and associated parts
    Charging handle
    Bolt and carrier assembly

    From a cost perspective. Is it better to build a Stag-10 or buy one complete?
    Is there one for sale somewhere that I missed? .308 models seem hard to find. I saw maple ridge armoury had a couple left, but that’s the only ones anywhere I looked.

  5. #15
    CGN Regular Buzzballer's Avatar
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    That’s a good point 45APCKING. The lack of tools would defiantly stop that train dead in the water. Thanks for the reply.
    NFA/CSSA Member since the Swiss Arms and CZ 858 Reclassification!

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45ACPKING View Post
    That really depends on how good you are at finding deals on parts.
    the other thing to add into the cost of building is the tools needed unless you already have them ie: headspace gauges, shoulder grease, reaction rod, torque wrench.
    This might sound like a stupid question that I could find on the internet, but is it necessary to head space an ar? I understand how and why it’s done on a bolt gun, but I don’t quite know how you’d gauge it on an ar. I’m only asking, because I’m on the fence of building my own or sending it out to someone.

  7. #17
    Business Member ARMS EAST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzballer View Post
    Here’s another dumb question. With this package you will need:

    Stock furniture and buffer tube
    Barrel and barrel nut.
    Gas block and gas tube and associated parts
    Charging handle
    Bolt and carrier assembly

    From a cost perspective. Is it better to build a Stag-10 or buy one complete?
    FWIW, we will be restocked on any/all those parts next week. Not sure we will still have combos at that point though.

    www.armseast.ca Toll Free 1-844-579-0007 EMAIL info@armseast.com

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustercluck View Post
    This might sound like a stupid question that I could find on the internet, but is it necessary to head space an ar? I understand how and why it’s done on a bolt gun, but I don’t quite know how you’d gauge it on an ar. I’m only asking, because I’m on the fence of building my own or sending it out to someone.
    It is really quite simple to assemble these rifles so from a at home building perspective …. easy
    I am not an AR "guy" so take anything I say with a grain of salt. As far as headspacing goes, I'm not sure of it is 100% necessary but I want to know what my chamber is regardless.
    You take the bolt out of the bolt carrier and your barrel before you install it and insert headspace gauge. Insert the bolt and ensure it closes fully on the gauge of choice.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45ACPKING View Post
    It is really quite simple to assemble these rifles so from a at home building perspective …. easy
    I am not an AR "guy" so take anything I say with a grain of salt. As far as headspacing goes, I'm not sure of it is 100% necessary but I want to know what my chamber is regardless.
    You take the bolt out of the bolt carrier and your barrel before you install it and insert headspace gauge. Insert the bolt and ensure it closes fully on the gauge of choice.
    I read a few articles on this topic and it seems like one of those arguments that nobody will ever agree on. You can check it, but can’t change it in any way. I’ve taken every part of my ar-15 and thought it wasn’t too bad. I think the only tool I had to buy was an armourers wrench and the only other tool I should have bought was the action block for putting the upper in a vice

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45ACPKING View Post
    It is really quite simple to assemble these rifles so from a at home building perspective …. easy
    I am not an AR "guy" so take anything I say with a grain of salt. As far as headspacing goes, I'm not sure of it is 100% necessary but I want to know what my chamber is regardless.
    You take the bolt out of the bolt carrier and your barrel before you install it and insert headspace gauge. Insert the bolt and ensure it closes fully on the gauge of choice.
    You can also do all of that when the barrel is assembled into the upper receiver.

    Headspacing on an AR or other rifle isn't really much different than headspacing on a bolt gun. You're still using go/no-go gauges - the .223/5.56 is headspaced on the shoulder of the case, where a theoretical datum would intersect a diameter of .400" (IIRC) on the shoulder.

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