Factory screw stuck

Thread: Factory screw stuck

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  1. Flash's Avatar

    Flash said:

    Factory screw stuck

    ATRS rings and rail arrived yesterday.

    Rem 700 drilled and tapped for scope mount. Three of the tiny little slotted screws came out easily. Front one refuses to budge.

    It’s as if that screw was installed by an anti-gunner mole in the factory, using epoxy and an air gun.

    Or maybe it's not a screw at all; only an etching where the hole's supposed to be.

    Tried the rubber band and cardboard techniques. Let it sit with Release-all overnight. Still won’t budge.

    Got any ideas?
    Thanx
    "There is always another way." - Kwai Chang Caine

    “The trouble with practical jokes is that they often get elected.” - Will Rogers
     
  2. ATRS Shaun's Avatar

    ATRS Shaun said:
    Heat it up, soldering iron on the screw. breaks down the loctite.
     
  3. Steve_'s Avatar

    Steve_ said:
    Heat it up and then try. Maybe some loctite on that 1 screw.
     
  4. Flash's Avatar

    Flash said:
    Soldering iron on the screw head -- or what appears to be a screw head -- didn't work.

    I sent Remington a message via its support contact page.
    "There is always another way." - Kwai Chang Caine

    “The trouble with practical jokes is that they often get elected.” - Will Rogers
     
  5. Waffles1's Avatar

    Waffles1 said:
    Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
    THE CAKE IS A LIE
     
  6. can14's Avatar

    can14 said:
    Get a set of easy outs
     
  7. Bigbubba's Avatar

    Bigbubba said:
    Spray with Krown 53 penetrating oil
    Have a coffee...
    Push down on the screwdriver and grip the screwdriver as close to the screw as you can with vice grip
    While pushing down, turn the vice grip slightly to break the seal
     
  8. Beater's Avatar

    Beater said:
    Quote Originally Posted by can14 View Post
    Get a set of easy outs
    and a drill bit the corisponding size i guess?
    payment within 24 hours , if not i retain the right to cancel the deal
     
  9. Potashminer said:
    I have seen the "easy out" suggestion several times on these threads - do they actually make such a thing for using on a #6 or #8 screw?? A #6-48 uses a .120" tap drill, or thereabouts, so a hole for an easy out would need to be even smaller?
     
  10. cooey43 said:
    Quote Originally Posted by Waffles1 View Post
    Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
    Use these steps in the following order:

    1 - Heat up screw a lot.
    2 - Let cool down on it's own ( hours?)
    3 - Soak with penn oil, overnight.
    4 - Hit lots with light to med. hits, using screwdriver bit ( no handle).
    5 - Using more pressure "Down" than by turning , unscrew it.
    In otherwords ; if using 20 lb. force to turn then use 25-30 lb. + pushing
    down on screw , so it will not strip out.

    I have used the above method for years on all size bolts on Cat. Equipment, with success.