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Thread: Factory screw stuck

  1. #1
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Flash's Avatar
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    Factory screw stuck

    ATRS rings and rail arrived yesterday.

    Rem 700 drilled and tapped for scope mount. Three of the tiny little slotted screws came out easily. Front one refuses to budge.

    It’s as if that screw was installed by an anti-gunner mole in the factory, using epoxy and an air gun.

    Or maybe it's not a screw at all; only an etching where the hole's supposed to be.

    Tried the rubber band and cardboard techniques. Let it sit with Release-all overnight. Still won’t budge.

    Got any ideas?
    Thanx
    "There is always another way." - Kwai Chang Caine

    “The trouble with practical jokes is that they often get elected.” - Will Rogers

  2. #2
    Business Member Rep. ATRS Shaun's Avatar
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    Heat it up, soldering iron on the screw. breaks down the loctite.

  3. #3
    Member Steve_'s Avatar
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    Heat it up and then try. Maybe some loctite on that 1 screw.

  4. #4
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Flash's Avatar
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    Soldering iron on the screw head -- or what appears to be a screw head -- didn't work.

    I sent Remington a message via its support contact page.
    "There is always another way." - Kwai Chang Caine

    “The trouble with practical jokes is that they often get elected.” - Will Rogers

  5. #5
    Member Waffles1's Avatar
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    Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
    THE CAKE IS A LIE

  6. #6
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer can14's Avatar
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    Get a set of easy outs

  7. #7
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Bigbubba's Avatar
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    Spray with Krown 53 penetrating oil
    Have a coffee...
    Push down on the screwdriver and grip the screwdriver as close to the screw as you can with vice grip
    While pushing down, turn the vice grip slightly to break the seal

  8. #8
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Beater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by can14 View Post
    Get a set of easy outs
    and a drill bit the corisponding size i guess?
    payment within 24 hours , if not i retain the right to cancel the deal

  9. #9
    Uber Super GunNutz
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    I have seen the "easy out" suggestion several times on these threads - do they actually make such a thing for using on a #6 or #8 screw?? A #6-48 uses a .120" tap drill, or thereabouts, so a hole for an easy out would need to be even smaller?

  10. #10
    GunNutz
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waffles1 View Post
    Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
    Use these steps in the following order:

    1 - Heat up screw a lot.
    2 - Let cool down on it's own ( hours?)
    3 - Soak with penn oil, overnight.
    4 - Hit lots with light to med. hits, using screwdriver bit ( no handle).
    5 - Using more pressure "Down" than by turning , unscrew it.
    In otherwords ; if using 20 lb. force to turn then use 25-30 lb. + pushing
    down on screw , so it will not strip out.

    I have used the above method for years on all size bolts on Cat. Equipment, with success.

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