1-6x variable or 3x fixed? What would you choose?

[MG4A6]

I am waiting on the new strike eagle 1x8 to enter canada, tried the current 1x6 and hated it. I currently run an eotech HWS with 3x mag but need 6x if I'm to hit anything with accuracy past 100 yards.

 

[Kidd X]

I think some of the serving CGN'rs need to have a broader perspective. Most of us don't shoot on a two-way range. I'd say this is a very special-purpose need in the sport shooting context. The worst that will happen if my scope fails is that I drop out of a match and have wasted gas money and a match fee - not worth and additional $2k for me.

As to BS on 3" targets at 100+ meters, stage designers don't make stages and targets where everyone is guaranteed a maximum score. is it challenging? Yes but matches are designed that way to separate the good from the very good. I don't think you can say BS until you've shot the same matches I have. Your tone says more about you than about your experience.

On not needing holdovers at under 200 yards - I think it depends on the size of the target. Let's say you use a 50/200 yard zero. At 10 yards you will hit about 2-3" high depending on the height of your optic. At 100 you will be about 2" high. Having a dead-hold at any of those distances will cause a miss on that mythical 3" target even if you are "properly" zeroed. If 50/200 isn't a "proper" zero, I'd like to know what is. Seems to me that "proper" depends on your use. 50/200 is what I find most useful for my gun games using an AR and my ammo. If I was using an AR 10 or a 22 LR rifle I think my zero might change. Others seem to think that there is only one right way to zero. Small thinking for small folks.

For starters the 50/200 zero is a myth and only applies to a specific barrel length generating a specific velocity with a specific load. It is however a generalization that a 50 yard zero will eqaute to a 200 yard zero. Regardless your data is for the most part correct. Shots at or inside 10 yards require you to account for MECHANICAL OFFSET which is something you should already know about and be doing. The 100 yard issue requires no math and only minor hold under to achieve hits. I personally use a 100 metre zero which makes anything beyond 100 a guaranteed hold over vs the 50/200(or any other dual zero) zero that requires both hold over and hold under dependent on range. I also use an ACOG with BDC so I have less to think about than even those with a red dot.

 

[Rhythm & Soul]

Damn! Lots information.
I realize how little I know, and how much I need to learn. Small bites and one day at a time.

On not needing holdovers at under 200 yards - I think it depends on the size of the target. Let's say you use a 50/200 yard zero. At 10 yards you will hit about 2-3" high depending on the height of your optic. At 100 you will be about 2" high. Having a dead-hold at any of those distances will cause a miss on that mythical 3" target even if you are "properly" zeroed. If 50/200 isn't a "proper" zero, I'd like to know what is. Seems to me that "proper" depends on your use. 50/200 is what I find most useful for my gun games using an AR and my ammo. If I was using an AR 10 or a 22 LR rifle I think my zero might change. Others seem to think that there is only one right way to zero. Small thinking for small folks.

For starters the 50/200 zero is a myth and only applies to a specific barrel length generating a specific velocity with a specific load. It is however a generalization that a 50 yard zero will eqaute to a 200 yard zero. Regardless your data is for the most part correct. Shots at or inside 10 yards require you to account for MECHANICAL OFFSET which is something you should already know about and be doing. The 100 yard issue requires no math and only minor hold under to achieve hits. I personally use a 100 metre zero which makes anything beyond 100 a guaranteed hold over vs the 50/200(or any other dual zero) zero that requires both hold over and hold under dependent on range. I also use an ACOG with BDC so I have less to think about than even those with a red dot.

That info ^^^ ... man something more to learn.
Thanks to all of you who answer questions here and at the range.

 

[shoota]

Steiner P4Xi 1-4

 

[Kriskringle]

I bought the PA 3X after a suggestion by another member.
Couldn't be happier with it. Very easy to acquire target close and long range with both eyes open. Works like a charm.

 

[Slamfire]

Maybe consider the Leupold Mark AR 1.5-4x20mm. Compact, lightweight, very clear and bright. Magnification range is useable for up close to intermediate ranges.

Or the Mark AR MOD 1 which has superseded the Mark AR -

https://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/scopes/mark-ar-riflescopes/mark-ar-mod-1-1-5-4x20mm/

I have the Mark AR on my Mini 30.

www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/scopes/mark-ar-riflescopes/mark-ar-1-5-4x20mm/

 

[Lojak]

Cheap optics only leads to buying more.

I just wanted to highlight this comment for posterity: This is absolutely true. I bought lower end optics for years (I have a closet full of optics I've tried and swapped for something else) and ended up buying a higher end optic this year. What a difference! If you need an optic "now" then buy something on the very low end to get you by and save for a well reviewed higher end optic made by a good vendor. You'll save a lot of money and frustration in the long run.

 

[TheTooner]

...If you buy a good optic the first time you won't waste your time and money searching for another later. Optics can be moved from gun to gun, something to keep in mind....

Unless you buy the wrong one for your purpose. But you're right, you can put it on another gun. A good quality scope can be a good excuse to buy another gun that does suit it. That's proper Gunnutz.