10 22 rear receiver tang (pic heavy)

[Ryferfan81]

Hey everyone,

I decided that I needed to add something to my 10 22 receiver to help secure it at the back. What I did was screw a screw into the back of my receiver and bedded it into my stock. Pictures are worth a thousand words so I'll post some on how I did it.

Firstly, I bought some screws (1/4" by 1/2");

Then I chucked it in my drill. I took my file and filled down the edge of the screw to try and make it seat as flush to the receiver as I could. The original screw had a rounded back edge, so I didn't want any bedding compound getting in there and causing a mechanical lock. I also cut it to length (just shorter than the width of the back wall of the receiver);

Then drilled and tapped a hole in the lower back wall of the receiver;

Then I screwed the screw into the tapped hole in the receiver and set the receiver into the stock (as best you can with the screw there) to help line up where to relieve the stock. I drilled out the back of the stock to give room for the screw head and bedding compound (ignore the bedding material from a previous bedding job, kinda looks ugly);

Then I took a bit of modeling clay and filled in the screw head, and put a tiny bit around the screw head, just to be sure no bedding compound got in there to make a mechanical lock;

Then I went about a normal bedding procedure, making sure to fill up the hole in the back of the stock where the screw head will sit. I would recommend double checking the receiver with the screw installed, and the hole drilled in the stock, fits a couple times! Hate to have to mess around when there is bedding compound already inplace! Anywho, after a night to dry;

With my front pillar I did the other day, I'm excited to see what it will do!

We will see!

Let me know what you guys think!

Edit: Gun info;

* Promag Archangel Target Deluxe stock
* 19" Dlask barrel
* VQ hammer and sear
* VQ muzzle break
* Front pillar
* Rear hold down tang
* 3 x 9 bushnell scope
* trigger overtravel stop (home made)

 

[Ryferfan81]

A couple groups I did with it the other day, shot from 50 yards with a 20 kmh wind from sandbags front and back.

 

[Moose308]

That is a nice way of doing it.

When I bedded my stock, I just put a few dabs of compound in each corner of the rear receiver, to stop the left/right wiggle. Your method, being more involved with tapping and whatnot, is obviously more work, but has the advantage of eliminating left/right wiggle, and vertical wiggling. Nicely done.

I have no desire to revisit the bedding on my 10/22, but if I ever do, I will give this method a try.

Now if only Ruger would come out with a 10/22 Mk II, with a threaded barrel, second receiver screw, integral scope base, and made of Stainless.

 

[agent_mango]

Nice work! How did you install the front pillar?


Moose, that would be the day! It seems Ruger has a high volume philosophy, so I doubt they would make a nicer version like that. Dlask is working on a receiver with a threaded barrel and second screw (no stainless though). I don't know whether they will sell receivers and/or complete rifles, but either way it should be interesting.

 

[Ryferfan81]

Nice work! How did you install the front pillar?


Moose, that would be the day! It seems Ruger has a high volume philosophy, so I doubt they would make a nicer version like that. Dlask is working on a receiver with a threaded barrel and second screw (no stainless though). I don't know whether they will sell receivers and/or complete rifles, but either way it should be interesting.

I used a brass pex fitting, here's a pic of the one I used (close anyway).

I cut off the non ribbed side at the flat part with a hacksaw and filed it nice and flat (that's what you can see in the picture in my first post). I then drilled out the takedown screw hole to just bigger than the ribbed part of the fitting. My stock didn't come with a escutcheon, so I didn't have to remove it before I drilled it out. I had to make an escutcheon out of another brass fitting, but I won't get into that. I then drilled out the top of the takedown screw hole, where the top of the pillar sits, I used a 3/4" wood boring bit, taking just enough material to leave the top of the pillar fractions of an inch higher than the material around it. Then I roughed up the inside of the hole i drilled, to help the JB weld hold, also drilled some small holes to help as well. Then I JB welded the escutcheon and the pillar (cut to length) into the hole.

I learned everything here! He explains it with pics, I didn't think about taking pics till I was done.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151960