10/22 Trigger? How Can I Get It Lighter?

mlehtovaara

mlehtovaara

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The trigger on my 10/22 is hindering my groupings at 100y and it has to be like 5 or 6 pounds!

So I am not looking at replacing the entire setup, as I just dont have the cash, but can I just buy a new hammer, and sear?

Where would the best place to get these parts from?

Thanks
Mark
 
I dropped a VQ Target hammer in my 10/22 and it cut the trigger pull in half (based on my perception as I did not measure it before or after). Its really easy to do and got it I cheap ($35 incl shipping) from rimfiresports.com.
 
Power custom's hammer and sear combo isn't expensive and makes for an easy drop in lightened trigger. Its a litter tricker though to get rid of the slack in the trigger, but can be done for peanuts. There's lots of good info on the net.
 
ramhunter said:
go to a web sight called rimfire central. they have a really good 10-22 section. and with some basic tools and JB weld you can do your own.

ramhunter
Click to expand...


I've done over a half dozen triggers with the info provided on rimfire central.
Average between 2 and 3 lbs but much crisper. The first one can be trying but if you go slow you should be good. If for some reason you over polish the hammer, as suggested above, just get a drop in hammer and your back to square one for some $30 or so.

There's quite a few other mods on that site that you'll want to do if your inclined. Radiusing the bolt, mag release, etc. All easily done with basic tools and a bit of time.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com
 
I had the VQ hammer in my last 10/22 and it was great but it also cost $40+.

On my new SR22 I just did my own trigger job and my trigger is down to 1lb 14oz. (I just finished checking the pull weight actually).

Here's what I did:
-polish sear, disconnect, and hammer as per the online writeups
-install Wolff spring kit (I don't think this actually reduced the pull all that much, but I did want a quality spring kit in there... the ruger internals are rough and sloppy from the factory so I assume the ruger springs are a tad cheap too.)
-radius trigger return nubbin
-set screw the hammer and sear and trigger
-stone down a bit of the lip on the hammer

And finish it all off with a little graphite dry lube. It can all be done in one evening if you've had your trigger apart before and can play with it comfortably, but if you've never opened your trigger then it may take a little longer.



As a note, the set screw in the hammer is what adjusts the weight of the pull. The set screw in the sear is what you adjust to take up the pre-travel (creep). The set screw in the trigger is what you adjust to remove the over travel. With all those screws, the trigger is highly adjustable and very easily tweaked to each users preference. I like my trigger to be light, with a touch of creep and no over travel. You could really adjust it to break like glass though if you want.

I'm doing a couple more triggers this week so I can probably take some pics and post them up if you'd like (if I'm not in a big time crunch).
 
neotekz said:
anyone have experience with the VQ hammer and shear combo? is it worth the price or the hammer is good enough?
Click to expand...

I just got the VQ hammer and it works well. Apparently the hammer with the matched sear is another .25lb drop in trigger pull.

I think if you want an adjustable sear you have to go with the Power Custom set.
 
ert said:
I had the VQ hammer in my last 10/22 and it was great but it also cost $40+.

On my new SR22 I just did my own trigger job and my trigger is down to 1lb 14oz. (I just finished checking the pull weight actually).

Here's what I did:
-polish sear, disconnect, and hammer as per the online writeups
-install Wolff spring kit (I don't think this actually reduced the pull all that much, but I did want a quality spring kit in there... the ruger internals are rough and sloppy from the factory so I assume the ruger springs are a tad cheap too.)
-radius trigger return nubbin
-set screw the hammer and sear and trigger
-stone down a bit of the lip on the hammer

And finish it all off with a little graphite dry lube. It can all be done in one evening if you've had your trigger apart before and can play with it comfortably, but if you've never opened your trigger then it may take a little longer.



As a note, the set screw in the hammer is what adjusts the weight of the pull. The set screw in the sear is what you adjust to take up the pre-travel (creep). The set screw in the trigger is what you adjust to remove the over travel. With all those screws, the trigger is highly adjustable and very easily tweaked to each users preference. I like my trigger to be light, with a touch of creep and no over travel. You could really adjust it to break like glass though if you want.

I'm doing a couple more triggers this week so I can probably take some pics and post them up if you'd like (if I'm not in a big time crunch).
Click to expand...

You can also do the JB Weld trick to the hammer to reduce the travel during the trigger pull itself. Apply it at the bottom of the lip, then file it even with the profile of the hammer bushing.
 
I purchased the Volq hammer and sear for 35$ but still went as far as to buy sand paper and to polish/radius everything up. I did it just to make everything operated somewhat smoother without any possibility of error asides from dud rounds.

People say 10/22's are garbage and dont work, I say there like muscle cars. They do need work to run, but when there done, they are incredible.
 
sl66ICEcuba said:
I purchased the Volq hammer and sear for 35$ but still went as far as to buy sand paper and to polish/radius everything up. I did it just to make everything operated somewhat smoother without any possibility of error asides from dud rounds.

People say 10/22's are garbage and dont work, I say there like muscle cars. They do need work to run, but when there done, they are incredible.
Click to expand...


where did you buy the VQ hammer and sear combo for $35?
 
ert said:
I had the VQ hammer in my last 10/22 and it was great but it also cost $40+.

On my new SR22 I just did my own trigger job and my trigger is down to 1lb 14oz. (I just finished checking the pull weight actually).

Here's what I did:
-polish sear, disconnect, and hammer as per the online writeups
-install Wolff spring kit (I don't think this actually reduced the pull all that much, but I did want a quality spring kit in there... the ruger internals are rough and sloppy from the factory so I assume the ruger springs are a tad cheap too.)
-radius trigger return nubbin
-set screw the hammer and sear and trigger
-stone down a bit of the lip on the hammer

And finish it all off with a little graphite dry lube. It can all be done in one evening if you've had your trigger apart before and can play with it comfortably, but if you've never opened your trigger then it may take a little longer.



As a note, the set screw in the hammer is what adjusts the weight of the pull. The set screw in the sear is what you adjust to take up the pre-travel (creep). The set screw in the trigger is what you adjust to remove the over travel. With all those screws, the trigger is highly adjustable and very easily tweaked to each users preference. I like my trigger to be light, with a touch of creep and no over travel. You could really adjust it to break like glass though if you want.

I'm doing a couple more triggers this week so I can probably take some pics and post them up if you'd like (if I'm not in a big time crunch).
Click to expand...

please do i've been looking for precise and clear info on how it's done.
 
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