.17Hmr-cleaning...

Greg110FP

Greg110FP

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Hello all, I just recieved my new Savage 93R17 BVSS...man what a beauty! Can't wait to get to the range. Got the wrong size scope rings... thought I could get away with Med's but I need High's....also I ordered a .17 cal Soney Point boreguide from SIR that supposedly fit this rifle....well it doesn't, not even close, I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can find a bore guide to fit this little rifle.
Thanks,
Greg
 
For my Marlin 917VS i made my own bore guide out of a .410 shotgun shell and a .22lr cartridge. It workes preatty good. And then i bought a piece of rubbery tubing from the hardware store that fits in the shotgun shell. The tubing i bought has a .25 OD and a .18 ID so it works quite good. It allows proper allignment of the bore and keeps all the cleaning solution and crud out of the trigger mechanism. Only cost about $.25 too.
 
I just got myself a patch worm http://patchworm.com/ , it is a plain pull though, actually I got the full field kit that will handle all of my guns. I have done my 17, 204 and 270 so far and it works like a charm. Dirt cheap too even with there patches.
 
Greg110FP said:
Hello all, I just recieved my new Savage 93R17 BVSS...man what a beauty! Can't wait to get to the range. Got the wrong size scope rings... thought I could get away with Med's but I need High's....also I ordered a .17 cal Soney Point boreguide from SIR that supposedly fit this rifle....well it doesn't, not even close, I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can find a bore guide to fit this little rifle.
Thanks,
Greg
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:) regarding the scope mounting-take it easy on the base screws they're made out of recycled toothpaste tubes:cool: the bases are also a real soft aluminum:eek: Rather than going for high rings discard the junk bases & screws provided & use Weaver # 45 bases (Real screws come with them) & you can probably use the medium rings. This Mickey Mouse mounting :mad: is the only downfall of an otherwise GREAT rifle - they really do shoot well:D
 
aulrich said:
I just got myself a patch worm http://patchworm.com/ , it is a plain pull though, actually I got the full field kit that will handle all of my guns. I have done my 17, 204 and 270 so far and it works like a charm. Dirt cheap too even with there patches.
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+1. Also great for the field, if you accidently foul the barrel with mud or snow. I've never seen a sectional .17 cal rod for field work.
 
Have you tried the weed-eater line trick?

Take a piece of heavy gauge weed eater line, melt one end to a blob small enough to fit through the bore.

Then, cut the other end on an angle so it is a bit sharp. Now you can poke the sharp end through a patch and pull through. The blob stops the patch from slipping off the line.
 
Yes I have tried it, the big advantage of the patch worm is that the jag at the end is quite tight fitting making for a good cleaning job. But it is little more than weed eater line. It's one of those simple ideas I wish I thought of.
 
Hint: want a 1-3 swipe cleaning?? Want a .17 bore that delivers accuracy far longer between cleanings than your gopher hunting pals? Have the bore lapped by a gunsmith or do it yourself or fire-lap it. The key to a tight shooting .17 is keeping that tiny hole unobstruted with copper and powder fouling.

Always take a cleaning kit along on your shoots...because an unsweetened or unlapped bore will need a good cleaning every 20 rounds on center fire and probably 30-40 on rim fire...a lapped .17 bore can go 50 CF rounds or 130-150 RF rounds before the accuracy drops off....from my personal experience.

I have used various .17 centerfires for the past 25 years ( when .17 was a novelty) and I am only getting acquainted with the .17 rim fires...but based in my knowledge of the CF .17s, the rim fires have a powder that burns colder and does not pose as bad a problem to remove as the CF powders when they are under this type of pressue. Some of the crap I spent hours brushing out of new .17 CFs approximated concrete with copper layersd in it crazy glied together...this is when I would go on a gopher shoot and shoot 50 rounds without cleaning in an unlapped barrel....ya gotta work at it before you see a clean patch poke through the bore....I've probably gone through hundreds of good .17 phosphor-bronze bore brushes before I discovered lapping as the cure to all .17 accuracy woes.

I suspect the Rim Fire barrels are softer steel than the CF .17s and that the bores are single-pull broached on the less expensive models or hammer forged and buttoned on the more expensive ones. Breaking in this type of bore on a copper clad bullet will be brutal...metal fouling galore...if you could see a micoscopic cross-section of this type of bore surface it would look like a saw blade. Easier than spending all the money shooting the bore smooth ( about 300-500 rounds with 20-50 round cleaning intervals) just lap the bore first off.

http://www.neconos.com/details2.htm
 
Gunny you'd be shocked at how little the HMR fouls. 99.9% of it is powder and the little bit left is copper. I gave my HMR a cleaning last week, all an hour soak with sweets 7.62 brought up a slight hint of blue and some powder fouling. And thats after the 500 round weekend last summer when it went into the safe.
 
aulrich said:
Gunny you'd be shocked at how little the HMR fouls. 99.9% of it is powder and the little bit left is copper. I gave my HMR a cleaning last week, all an hour soak with sweets 7.62 brought up a slight hint of blue and some powder fouling. And thats after the 500 round weekend last summer when it went into the safe.
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Tip: do not leave sweet's in a moly bore any longer than it takes to oxidize the copper 5 min or less) and make sure you remove all the sweets with a clean patch and coat the bore with an inert bore protector after usung sweets if you are storing the rifle for a while. The ammonia in Sweets will corrode a soft moly steel bore if allowed to sit in contact with the air. Some bench resters let sweets "sit" to work because they have 440 stanless barrels on those match guns that the ammonia in sweet's wont "burn". However if you have to use aggressive cleaners like Sweets to get copper fouling out, your bore is a good candidate for lap polishing.

Copper clads leave less metal in moly bores than lead but that .17 hole is prone to fouling and accuracy drop off far faster than a .22 bore. I have found that proper lapping of the .17 bore extends the number of shots before accuracy fall of ( about 60%) and makes cleaning far easier. I have a Ruger 77/22 stainless laminated varminter with a custom Volquartsen trigger and match grade SS barrel...the VolQuartsen barrel came lapped...after 60 rounds the accuracy to vaporize gophers out at 200 yrds drops off...3-4 wipes with a Dewy patch jag and a patch soaked in shooter's choice , and the bore is sweet. My Sako .17 rem CF cleans up similarly after 25 or so rounds.

Before I had the Volquartsen barrel, I broke in the stock ruger barrel with a 200 round marathon of shooting and cleaning every 10 rounds...still the gun would foul and accuracy drop off after about 30 rounds and cleaning was arduous having to use the brush and nearly a dozen or more patches with aggressive cleaners.

If you have to work the bore with a bronze brush and use more than 3-5 patches to see a clean one, your bore is a candidate for lapping....lapped bores rarely need the brush unless they are really dirty.
 
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