1911 Barrel

[Wally]

Hey guys,
Bought this Stainless 1911 barrel at a gun show for $80. Just wondering what your opinions of it are.

Also, the OD of the barrel is .580" +-.001" and I'm wondering what thread/die size would be recomended for threading it?

 

[Paulinski]

Is that rust inside the bore?

 

[recce]

That looks exactly like my Nork barrel. MP on the lower lugs and an electro-penciled ser # underneath.

 

[Wally]

Is that rust inside the bore?

Think so. Again, my camera in Macro mode picks up stuff I can't see with my naked eye. It's s stainless bbl so One swipe with the brush should clean it out.

That looks exactly like my Nork barrel. MP on the lower lugs and an electro-penciled ser # underneath.

You are exactly right. I just picked up my Nork 1911C at the post office an hour ago and when I took it appart the bbls were identical except for the length. That totally put my worries to rest

Anyway, this still leaves the issue of threads....

 

[tiriaq]

Certainly looks like a Chinese barrel. Does Norinco make ones using stainless steel? What are the marks around the muzzle?
I assume that you want to thread it so that you can install it in your "C" with a comp. A die would not be a good idea for threading it, have it done on a lathe. Much greater likelihood that the threads will be straight.

 

[Wally]

Certainly looks like a Chinese barrel. Does Norinco make ones using stainless steel? What are the marks around the muzzle?
I assume that you want to thread it so that you can install it in your "C" with a comp. A die would not be a good idea for threading it, have it done on a lathe. Much greater likelihood that the threads will be straight.

Yeah, it's exactly the same as the 4.25" in my new commander as it's SS too.

Have no idea what the marks around the muzzle are. Again, I can't see them with the naked eye. I've gotta make sure I don't put Photo's in the EE that I've taken with that camera on Macro

Yep, you got it. I actually bought the bbl before I even got the gun you know your a nut when! Hmmm ok. Wonder how much it will cost me to get that done. What thread size would you recomend? I'm assuming fine thread is prefered? What's standard for 1911 barels?

 

[McNasty]

I think 9/16 - 32 would work. The 1911 barrel is thin so you have to go to a special thread. 32, 36, something like that.

 

[Wally]

I think 9/16 - 32 would work. The 1911 barrel is thin so you have to go to a special thread. 32, 36, something like that.

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinkin'.... 9/16-32 is listed at around .5625" for the outside diameter though I think. Not sure if a die would bind.

 

[tiriaq]

Had a quick look in the Brownells catalogue, they sell taps and dies in .575", .581", and .685", all x 40 thread taps and dies. Taps are $40, dies are $100. The .685" are for the reverse tapered no bushing barrels. This would suggest that 40 threads is a standard. The only comps they list though are bushing style or reverse taper for no bushing installation. Problem with bushing style comps is that the bore has to be large enough to allow passage of the barrel, and this reduces efficiency of the comp.
The barrel in my Norinco is silver, but I think it is plated, not stainless.

 

[Wally]

Hmmmm.. Thanks for the reply tiriaq. Couldn't find those dies on Brownelle's website. Unfortunately we don't have a good smith in Kelowna. If I take the bbl to a Machine shop and just tell them to cut a 40TPI thread on the bbl will that work? I guess they would need to know the depth....? I'm assuming that a 40TPI thread cut on a .580" bbl will work out to being a standard 1911 bbl thread.....

 

[WithoutWarning]

Hmmmm.. Thanks for the reply tiriaq. Couldn't find those dies on Brownelle's website. Unfortunately we don't have a good smith in Kelowna. If I take the bbl to a Machine shop and just tell them to cut a 40TPI thread on the bbl will that work? I guess they would need to know the depth....? I'm assuming that a 40TPI thread cut on a .580" bbl will work out to being a standard 1911 bbl thread.....

40 TPI (threads per inch) is 40 TPI, the thread depth is constant on any diameter. And 40 TPI can be cut on a .580" bbl, no problem. But you'll end up with a .580" - 40 kind of thread. That doesn't really match anything as far as standard thread sizes are concened.
For a 9/16 - 40, the bbl would need to be turned to .5625" (min.) Roughly
9 thou off either side, minor detail.
Don't use a die! Working in this trade all my life, and I still hate'em. A die is
a last resort tool (for me anyway), for the simple fact they are VERY finiky to align properly. Threads may look straight, but after proper conformation, they prolly won't be. And the bbl would still have to be turned prior to you using a 9/16 - 40 die anyway, so just keep it in the lathe and thread it then. Now you KNOW it will be tru.
I love doing simple 'smithing' like this when I can, but, like everyone else. . .
I can't seem to find the time.

 

[Wally]

40 TPI (threads per inch) is 40 TPI, the thread depth is constant on any diameter. And 40 TPI can be cut on a .580" bbl, no problem. But you'll end up with a .580" - 40 kind of thread. That doesn't really match anything as far as standard thread sizes are concened.
For a 9/16 - 40, the bbl would need to be turned to .5625" (min.) Roughly
9 thou off either side, minor detail.
Don't use a die! Working in this trade all my life, and I still hate'em. A die is
a last resort tool (for me anyway), for the simple fact they are VERY finiky to align properly. Threads may look straight, but after proper conformation, they prolly won't be. And the bbl would still have to be turned prior to you using a 9/16 - 40 die anyway, so just keep it in the lathe and thread it then. Now you KNOW it will be tru.
I love doing simple 'smithing' like this when I can, but, like everyone else. . .
I can't seem to find the time.

Thanks WOW. That's good to know. I wish I had a lathe Alrighty, I'm not gonna try doing it my self. I know exactly what you mean, I HATE dies too... Just a "little" more than I HATE taps

Wally

 

[tiriaq]

Just as suggestion - have the comp on hand when the threads are cut. Then the barrel threads can be fitted to the unit.

 

[ckid]

^^ Very good advice. You want a nice snug fitting thread for your comp. Whenever I have done this, step one was to build and thread the comp - then thread the barrel on the lathe and once it is close to fitting go to very light cuts and try after every cut until you get the fit you want. Then remember to put the bushing (properly fitted) on place a couple drops of loctite on and screw the comp on to the proper location.