1911 Broken Ejector

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Nash

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I was at the range today and my 1911 fired and ejected shells without any problems. Around 10pm tonight (now last night) I started cleaning the pistol when I noticed that the ejector is broken. I put some snap caps in a magazine and went through the motions of chambering and ejecting. There weren't any problems. I then spent some time learning how to upload pictures to this forum.

Even though I am going to get this fixed, what would happen if I still took the pistol to the range? Will there be further damage? Also, how much do you think it will cost to get this fixed? I don't think I can do it myself. Dlask is a little under an hour away so that's where I am looking at going.

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the only "difficult" part is pushing out the retaining pin, which isn't all that hard to do, so really it's quite simple overall.
 
I don't think its a big deal. Your extended ejector became a regular ejector like the one on my plain jane government model.
 
Nash said:
I was at the range today and my 1911 fired and ejected shells without any problems. Around 10pm tonight (now last night) I started cleaning the pistol when I noticed that the ejector is broken. I put some snap caps in a magazine and went through the motions of chambering and ejecting. There weren't any problems. I then spent some time learning how to upload pictures to this forum.

Even though I am going to get this fixed, what would happen if I still took the pistol to the range? Will there be further damage? Also, how much do you think it will cost to get this fixed? I don't think I can do it myself. Dlask is a little under an hour away so that's where I am looking at going.
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That looks like an MIM part. There are certain areas in a 1911 where MIM components should not be used. This is one of them.

If you're not comfortable replacing such a part, do take your gun to a smith so a new ejector will be properly fitted to YOUR gun.
It would not be good if a round went off when clearing a live round. The ejector needs to be of an exact length to function reliably and eject cases in the proper direction and distance.

I tend to remind people that new 1911 parts are not exactly a drop-in fit, by I digress.
 
Thank you for all the replies.

Griffoneur, I'm glad to see that the ejector won't cost that much. I wasn't sure how expensive it would be, aside from a recent google search leading me to another forum that had a post stating how a good ejector can cost $75(I think it was USD).

After reading Easy's post about the possibility of a live round going off when clearing, I'll hold off firing it for now.

I guess this is why it's good to have spare parts on hand and be knowledgeable enough to work on your own firearms.

It's a shame this happened on a long weekend.


Thank you all again.

Cheers,

Nash
 
Nash said:
Thank you for all the replies. ...
After reading Easy's post about the possibility of a live round going off when clearing, I'll hold off firing it for now. ...
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No, no, a round could NOT go off with the broken ejector. Worse case scenario you'll have a failure to eject.

What I meant is that if you install a new improperly fitted ejector, one being too long, you run the chance of a live round going off during a live round extraction. That's why I mention to take the gun to a smith. With respect, by your posts, it doesn't seem you're too inclined repairing firearms.
 
How would a round go off??? The ejector isn't in line with the primer. I'm curious here since AFAIK the ejector is just a "spike" that the rim hits so that the case is deflected out.
 
easy said:
No, no, a round could NOT go off with the broken ejector. Worse case scenario you'll have a failure to eject.

What I meant is that if you install a new improperly fitted ejector, one being too long, you run the chance of a live round going off during a live round extraction. That's why I mention to take the gun to a smith. With respect, by your posts, it doesn't seem you're too inclined repairing firearms.
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Thank you for clearing that up. When I first read it I was puzzled as to how a broken ejector would cause a live round to go off. I couldn't see how it would happen. Now I know you were referring to an improperly installed ejector. As you pointed out, I am not too inclined to repair firearms.

I am still going to have a gunsmith replace the broken ejector.

I will need to pick up a good manual on the 1911. Even if I have to go to a gunsmith again, at least I will have a better understanding of the parts involved.
 
BP7 said:
the only "difficult" part is pushing out the retaining pin, which isn't all that hard to do, so really it's quite simple overall.
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Installing a new ejector on a 1911 isn't that simple.

There are a few ways to secure an ejector to the frame. With a cross pin, or using some kind of compound like LockTite. Which way is yours installed? If you don't see a cross pin, then the ejector is glued in some way.

To remove the ejector with LockTite compound you'd have to heat the area with a torch and metal integrity may be compromised.
To remove a pinned ejector, you need to punch the cross pin out, that's the "easy" part, 'cause then you need a vise to hold the old ejector still in the frame, or vice versa, and pull and wiggle to get it out. You hope the ejector stem doesn't break off still in the frame by wiggling too much or you now have bigger problems getting that stem out. Ejectors don't just fall out of the frame when you pull the pin.

When you do finally get the ejector off the frame, the new one needs to be fit to your frame. The stem has to be cut to the proper length and worse of all, you need to drill a half moon into the stem just at the point where the cross pin would fit. That's how it's held in place. A new ejector doesn't come pre-drilled, so to speak. ;) You can't really do it with a drill either. ... and has to be filed precisely at 90 degrees to the ejector. Try to drill it in the frame and you will damage the frame making a bigger cross pin hole.

Difficult enough yet? -- LOL, ... and the new installation isn't even complete. :) You still have to file to correct length and angle so it doesn't eject cases into your forehead.

... just thought I'd clear up some misconceptions on 1911 ejectors.

Now, my question is how did that ejector break off? Do you think it could be because of improper installation and a substandard component? I've never seen a tool steel one break off like that.
 
my Norc has the cross-pin. i think that if it was LocTite, then the heat needed would probably ruin the finish before it changes the metallurgy. but ya, i can see how if someone isn't mechanically inclined they'd find it more of a PITA than i would. i'm always looking for an excuse to use kerosene and air tools... :p
 
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